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travels through france and italy-第92章

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rble also; standing upon a table of alabaster; a black gipsey  with a head; hands; and feet of brass; and the famous  hermaphrodite; which vies with that of Florence: though the most  curious circumstance of this article; is the mattrass executed  and placed by Bernini; with such art and dexterity; that to the  view; it rivals the softness of wool; and seems to retain the  marks of pressure; according to the figure of the superincumbent  statue。 Let us likewise own; for the honour of the moderns; that  the same artist has produced two fine statues; which we find  among the ornaments of this villa; namely; a David with his sling  in the attitude of throwing the stone at the giant Goliah; and a  Daphne changing into laurel at the approach of Apollo。 On the  base of this figure; are the two following elegant lines; written  by pope Urban VIII。 in his younger years。

Quisquis amans sequitur fugitivae gaudia formae;  Fronde manus implet; baccas vel carpit amaras。

Who pants for fleeting Beauty; vain pursuit! Shall barren Leaves obtain; or bitter fruit。

I ought not to forget two exquisite antique statues of Venus; the  weeping slave; and the youth pulling a thorn out of his foot。

I do not pretend to give a methodical detail of the curiosities  of Rome: they have been already described by different authors;  who were much better qualified than I am for the talk: but you  shall have what observations I made on the most remarkable  objects; without method; just as they occur to my remembrance;  and I protest the remarks are all my own: so that if they deserve  any commendation; I claim all the merit; and if they are  impertinent; I must be contented to bear all the blame。

The piazza of St。 Peter's church is altogether sublime。 The  double colonnade on each side extending in a semi…circular sweep;  the stupendous Aegyptian obelisk; the two fountains; the portico;  and the admirable facade of the church; form such an assemblage  of magnificent objects; as cannot fail to impress the mind with  awe and admiration: but the church would have produced a still  greater effect; had it been detached entirely from the buildings  of the Vatican; It would then have been a master…piece of  architecture; complete in all its parts; intire and perfect:  whereas; at present; it is no more than a beautiful member  attached to a vast undigested and irregular pile of building。 As  to the architecture of this famous temple; I shall say nothing;  neither do I pretend to describe the internal ornaments。 The  great picture of Mosaic work; and that of St。 Peter's bark tossed  by the tempest; which appear over the gate of the church; though  rude in comparison with modern pieces; are nevertheless great  curiosities; when considered as the work of Giotto; who  flourished in the beginning of the fourteenth century。 His master  was Cimabue; who learned painting and architecture of the Grecian  artists; who came from Constantinople; and first revived these  arts in Italy。 But; to return to St。 Peter's; I was not at all  pleased with the famous statue of the dead Christ in his mother's  lap; by Michael Angelo。 The figure of Christ is as much  emaciated; as if he had died of a consumption: besides; there is  something indelicate; not to say indecent; in the attitude and  design of a man's body; stark naked; lying upon the knees of a  woman。 Here are some good pictures; I should rather say copies of  good pictures; done in Mosaic to great perfection; particularly a  St。 Sebastian by Domenichino; and Michael the Archangel; from a;  painting of Guido Rheni。 I am extremely fond of all this artist's  pieces。 There is a tenderness and delicacy in his manner; and his  figures are all exquisitely beautiful; though his expression is  often erroneous; and his attitudes are always affected and  unnatural。 In this very piece the archangel has all the air of a  French dancing…master; and I have seen a Madonna by the same  hand; I think it is in the Palazzo di Barberini; in which; though  the figures are enchanting; the Virgin is represented holding up  the drapery of the infant; with the ridiculous affectation of a  singer on the stage of our Italian opera。 The Mosaic work; though  brought to a wonderful degree of improvement; and admirably  calculated for churches; the dampness of which is pernicious to  the colours of the pallet; I will not yet compare to the  productions of the pencil。 The glassyness (if I may be allowed  the expression) of the surface; throws; in my opinion; a false  light on some parts of the picture; and when you approach it; the  joinings of the pieces look like so many cracks on painted  canvas。 Besides; this method is extremely tedious and expensive。  I went to see the artists at work; in a house that stands near  the church; where I was much pleased with the ingenuity of the  process; and not a little surprized at the great number of  different colours and tints; which are kept in separate drawers;  marked with numbers as far as seventeen thousand。 For a single  head done in Mosaic; they asked me fifty zequines。 But to return  to the church。 The altar of St。 Peter's choir; notwithstanding  all the ornaments which have been lavished upon it; is no more  than a heap of puerile finery; better adapted to an Indian pagod;  than to a temple built upon the principles of the Greek  architecture。 The four colossal figures that support the chair;  are both clumsy and disproportioned。 The drapery of statues;  whether in brass or stone; when thrown into large masses; appears  hard and unpleasant to the eye and for that reason the antients  always imitated wet linen; which exhibiting the shape of the  limbs underneath; and hanging in a multiplicity of wet folds;  gives an air of lightness; softness; and ductility to the whole。

These two statues weigh 116;257 pounds; and as they sustain  nothing but a chair; are out of all proportion; inasmuch as the  supporters ought to be suitable to the things supported。 Here are  four giants holding up the old wooden chair of the apostle Peter;  if we may believe the book De Identitate Cathedrae Romanae; Of  the Identity of the Roman Chair。 The implements of popish  superstition; such as relicks of pretended saints; ill…proportioned  spires and bellfreys; and the nauseous repetition of  the figure of the cross; which is in itself a very mean and  disagreeable object; only fit for the prisons of condemned  criminals; have contributed to introduce a vitious taste into the  external architecture; as well as in the internal ornaments of  our temples。 All churches are built in the figure of a cross;  which effectually prevents the eye from taking in the scope of  the building; either without side or within; consequently robs  the edifice of its proper effect。 The palace of the Escurial in  Spain is laid out in the shape of a gridiron; because the convent  was built in consequence of a vow to St。 Laurence; who was  broiled like a barbecued pig。 What pity it is; that the labours  of painting should have been so much employed on the shocking  subjects of the martyrology。 Besides numberless pictures of the  flagellation; crucifixion; and descent from the cross; we have  Judith with the head of Holofernes; Herodias with the head
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