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ion； and descent from the cross； we have Judith with the head of Holofernes； Herodias with the head of John the Baptist； Jael assassinating Sisera in his sleep； Peter writhing on the cross； Stephen battered with stones； Sebastian stuck full of arrows； Laurence frying upon the coals； Bartholomew flaed alive； and a hundred other pictures equally frightful； which can only serve to fill the mind with gloomy ideas； and encourage a spirit of religious fanaticism； which has always been attended with mischievous consequences to the community where it reigned。
The tribune of the great altar； consisting of four wreathed brass pillars； gilt； supporting a canopy； is doubtless very magnificent； if not over…charged with sculpture； fluting； foliage； festoons； and figures of boys and angels； which； with the hundred and twenty…two lamps of silver； continually burning below； serve rather to dazzle the eyes； and kindle the devotion of the ignorant vulgar； than to excite the admiration of a judicious observer。
There is nothing； I believe； in this famous structure； so worthy of applause； as the admirable symmetry and proportion of its parts。 Notwithstanding all the carving； gilding； basso relievos； medallions； urns； statues； columns； and pictures with which it abounds； it does not； on the whole； appear over…crouded with ornaments。 When you first enter； your eye is filled so equally and regularly； that nothing appears stupendous； and the church seems considerably smaller than it really is。 The statues of children； that support the founts of holy water when observed from the door； seem to be of the natural size； but as you draw near； you perceive they are gigantic。 In the same manner； the figures of the doves； with olive branches in their beaks； which are represented on the wall； appear to be within your reach； but as you approach them； they recede to a considerable height； as if they had flown upwards to avoid being taken。
I was much disappointed at sight of the Pantheon； which； after all that has been said of it； looks like a huge cockpit； open at top。 The portico which Agrippa added to the building； is undoubtedly very noble； though； in my opinion； it corresponds but ill with the simplicity of the edifice。 With all my veneration for the antients； I cannot see in what the beauty of tile rotunda consists。 It is no more than a plain unpierced cylinder； or circular wall； with two fillets and a cornice； having a vaulted roof or cupola； open in the centre。 I mean the original building； without considering the vestibule of Agrippa。 Within side it has much the air of a mausoleum。 It was this appearance which； in all probability； suggested the thought to Boniface IV。 to transport hither eight and twenty cart…loads of old rotten bones； dug from different burying…places； and then dedicate it as a church to the blessed Virgin and all the holy martyrs。 I am not one of those who think it is well lighted by the hole at the top； which is about nine and twenty feet in diameter； although the author of the Grand Tour calls it but nine。 The same author says； there is a descent of eleven steps to go into it； that it is a hundred and forty…four feet in heighth； and as many in breadth； that it was covered with copper； which； with the brass nails of the portico； pope Urban VIII。 took away； and converted into the four wreathed pillars that support the canopy of the high altar in the church of St。 Peter； &c。 The truth is； before the time of pope Alexander VII。 the earth was so raised as to cover part of the temple； and there was a descent of some steps into the porch： but that pontiff ordered the ground to be pared away to the very pedestal or base of the portico； which is now even with the street； so that there is no descent whatsoever。 The height is two hundred palmi； and the breadth two hundred and eighteen； which； reckoning fife palmi at nine inches； will bring the height to one hundred and fifty； and the breadth to one hundred and sixty…three feet six inches。 It was not any covering of copper which pope Urban VIII。 removed； but large brass beams； which supported the roof of the portico。 They weighed 186；392 pounds； and afforded metal enough not only for the pillars in St。 Peter's church； but also for several pieces of artillery that are now in the castle of St。 Angelo。 What is more extraordinary； the gilding of those columns is said to have cost forty thousand golden crowns： sure money was never worse laid out。 Urban VIII。 likewise added two bellfrey towers to the rotunda； and I wonder he did not cover the central hole with glass； as it must be very inconvenient and disagreeable to those who go to church below； to be exposed to the rain in wet weather； which must also render it very damp and unwholesome。 I visited it several times； and each time it looked more and more gloomy and sepulchral。
The magnificence of the Romans was not so conspicuous in their temples； as in their theatres； amphitheatres； circusses； naumachia； aqueducts； triumphal arches； porticoes； basilicae； but especially their thermae； or bathing…places。 A great number of their temples were small and inconsiderable； not one of them was comparable either for size or magnificence； to the modern church of St。 Peter of the Vatican。 The famous temple of Jupiter Capitolinus was neither half so long； nor half so broad： it was but two hundred feet in length； and one hundred and eighty…five in breadth； whereas the length of St。 Peter's extends to six hundred and thirty…eight feet； and the breadth to above five hundred。 It is very near twice as large as the temple of Jupiter Olympius in Greece； which was counted one of the seven wonders of the world。 But I shall take another opportunity to explain myself further on the antiquities of this city； a subject； upon which I am disposed to be （perhaps impertinently） circumstantial。 When I begin to run riot； you should cheek me with the freedom of a friend。 The most distant hint will be sufficient to；Dear Sir； Yours assuredly。
LETTER XXXII
NICE； March 10； 1765。
DEAR SIR；The Colossaeum or amphitheatre built by Flavius Vespasian； is the most stupendous work of the kind which antiquity can produce。 Near one half of the external circuit still remains； consisting of four tire of arcades； adorned with columns of four orders； Doric； Ionic； Corinthian； and Composite。 The height and extent of it may be guessed from the number of spectators it contained； amounting to one hundred thousand； and yet； according to Fontana's mensuration； it could not contain above thirty…four thousand persons sitting； allowing a foot and an half for each person： for the circuit of the whole building did not exceed one thousand five hundred and sixty feet。 The amphitheatre at Verona is one thousand two hundred and ninety feet in circumference； and that of Nismes； one thousand and eighty。 The Colossaeum was built by Vespasian； who employed thirty thousand Jewish slaves in the work； but finished and dedicated by his son Titus； who； on the first day of its being opened； produced fifty thousand wild beasts； which were all killed in the arena。 The Romans were undoubtedly a barbarous