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myself with saying； I was certain the two horses had been put to the coach on purpose； either to hurt or frighten us； and that since I could not have justice here I would make a formal complaint to the British minister at Florence。 In passing through the street to the coach； which was by this time furnished with fresh horses； I met the hostler； and would have caned him heartily； but perceiving my intention； he took to his heels and vanished。 Of all the people I have ever seen； the hostlers； postilions； and other fellows hanging about the post…houses in Italy； are the most greedy； impertinent； and provoking。 Happy are those travellers who have phlegm enough to disregard their insolence and importunity： for this is not so disagreeable as their revenge is dangerous。 An English gentleman at Florence told me； that one of those fellows； whom he had struck for his impertinence； flew at him with a long knife； and he could hardly keep him at sword's point。 All of them wear such knives； and are very apt to use them on the slightest provocation。 But their open attacks are not so formidable as their premeditated schemes of revenge； in the prosecution of which the Italians are equally treacherous and cruel。
This night we passed at a place called Radicofani； a village and fort； situated on the top of a very high mountain。 The inn stands still lower than the town。 It was built at the expence of the last grand…duke of Tuscany； is very large； very cold； and uncomfortable。 One would imagine it was contrived for coolness； though situated so high； that even in the midst of summer； a traveller would be glad to have a fire in his chamber。 But few； or none of them have fireplaces； and there is not a bed with curtains or tester in the house。 All the adjacent country is naked and barren。 On the third day we entered the pope's territories； some parts of which are delightful。 Having passed Aqua…Pendente； a beggarly town； situated on the top of a rock； from whence there is a romantic cascade of water； which gives it the name； we travelled along the side of the lake Bolsena； a beautiful piece of water about thirty miles in circuit； with two islands in the middle； the banks covered with noble plantations of oak and cypress。 The town of Bolsena standing near the ruins of the antient Volsinium； which was the birth…place of Sejanus； is a paultry village； and Montefiascone； famous for its wine； is a poor； decayed town in this neighbourhood； situated on the side of a hill； which； according to the author of the Grand Tour； the only directory I had along with me； is supposed to be the Soracte of the ancients。 If we may believe Horace； Soracte was visible from Rome： for； in his ninth ode； addressed to Thaliarchus； he says；
Vides； ut alta stet nive candidum Soracte
You see how deeply wreathed with snow Soracte lifts his hoary head；
but； in order to see Montefiascone； his eyesight must have penetrated through the Mons Cyminus； at the foot of which now stands the city of Viterbo。 Pliny tells us； that Soracte was not far from Rome； haud procul ab urbe Roma； but Montefiascone is fifty miles from this city。 And Desprez； in his notes upon Horace； says it is now called Monte S。 Oreste。 Addison tells us he passed by it in the Campania。 I could not without indignation reflect upon the bigotry of Mathilda； who gave this fine country to the see of Rome； under the dominion of which no country was ever known to prosper。
About half way between Montefiascone and Viterbo； one of our fore…wheels flew off； together with a large splinter of the axle…tree； and if one of the postilions had not by great accident been a remarkably ingenious fellow； we should have been put to the greatest inconvenience； as there was no town； or even house； within several miles。 I mention this circumstance； by way of warning to other travellers； that they may provide themselves with a hammer and nails； a spare iron…pin or two； a large knife； and bladder of grease； to be used occasionally in case of such misfortune。
The mountain of Viterbo is covered with beautiful plantations and villas belonging to the Roman nobility； who come hither to make the villegiatura in summer。 Of the city of Viterbo I shall say nothing； but that it is the capital of that country which Mathilda gave to the Roman see。 The place is well built； adorned with public fountains； and a great number of churches and convents； yet far from being populous； the whole number of inhabitants； not exceeding fifteen thousand。 The post…house is one of the worst inns I ever entered。
After having passed this mountain； the Cyminus of the antients； we skirted part of the lake； which is now called de Vico； and whose banks afford the most agreeable rural prospects of hill and vale； wood； glade and water； shade and sun…shine。 A few other very inconsiderable places we passed； and descended into the Campania of Rome； which is almost a desert。 The view of this country in its present situation； cannot but produce emotions of pity and indignation in the mind of every person who retains any idea of its antient cultivation and fertility。 It is nothing but a naked withered down； desolate and dreary； almost without inclosure； corn…field； hedge； tree； shrub； house； hut； or habitation； exhibiting here and there the ruins of an antient castellum； tomb； or temple； and in some places the remains of a Roman via。 I had heard much of these antient pavements； and was greatly disappointed when I saw them。 The Via Cassia or Cymina is paved with broad； solid； flint…stones； which must have greatly incommoded the feet of horses that travelled upon it as well as endangered the lives of the riders from the slipperiness of the pavement： besides； it is so narrow that two modern carriages could not pass one another upon it； without the most imminent hazard of being overturned。 I am still of opinion that we excel the ancient Romans in understanding the conveniences of life。
The Grand Tour says； that within four miles of Rome you see a tomb on the roadside； said to be that of Nero； with sculpture in basso…relievo at both ends。 I did see such a thing more like a common grave…stone； than the tomb of an emperor。 But we are informed by Suetonius； that the dead body of Nero； who slew himself at the villa of his freedman； was by the care of his two nurses and his concubine Atta； removed to the sepulchre of the Gens Domitia； immediately within the Porta del Popolo； on your left hand as you enter Rome； precisely on the spot where now stands the church of S。 Maria del Popolo。 His tomb was even distinguished by an epitaph； which has been preserved by Gruterus。 Giacomo Alberici tells us very gravely in his History of the Church； that a great number of devils； who guarded the bones of this wicked emperor； took possession； in the shape of black ravens； of a walnut…tree； which grew upon the spot； from whence they insulted every passenger； until pope Paschal II。； in consequence of a solemn fast and a revelation； went thither in procession with his court and cardinals； cut down the tree； and burned it to ashes； which； with the bones of Nero； were thrown into the Tyber： then h