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he tree； and burned it to ashes； which； with the bones of Nero； were thrown into the Tyber： then he consecrated an altar on the place； where afterwards the church was built。 You may guess what I felt at first sight of the city of Rome； which； notwithstanding all the calamities it has undergone； still maintains an august and imperial appearance。 It stands on the farther side of the Tyber； which we crossed at the Ponte Molle； formerly called Pons Milvius； about two miles from the gate by which we entered。 This bridge was built by Aemilius Censor； whose name it originally bore。 It was the road by which so many heroes returned with conquest to their country； by which so many kings were led captive to Rome； and by which the ambassadors of so many kingdoms and states approached the seat of empire； to deprecate the wrath； to sollicit the friendship； or sue for the protection of the Roman people。 It is likewise famous for the defeat and death of Maxentius； who was here overcome by Constantine the Great。 The space between the bridge and Porta del Popolo； on the right…hand； which is now taken up with gardens and villas； was part of the antient Campus Martius； where the comitiae were held； and where the Roman people inured themselves to all manner of exercises： it was adorned with porticos； temples； theatres； baths； circi； basilicae； obelisks； columns； statues； and groves。 Authors differ in their opinions about the extent of it； but as they all agree that it contained the Pantheon； the Circus Agonis； now the Piazza Navona； the Bustum and Mausoleum Augusti； great part of the modern city must be built upon the ancient Campus Martius。 The highway that leads from the bridge to the city； is part of the Via Flaminia； which extended as far as Rimini； and is well paved； like a modern street。 Nothing of the antient bridge remains but the piles； nor is there any thing in the structure of this； or of the other five Roman bridges over the Tyber； that deserves attention。 I have not seen any bridge in France or Italy； comparable to that of Westminster either in beauty； magnificence； or solidity； and when the bridge at Black…Friars is finished； it will be such a monument of architecture as all the world cannot parallel。 As for the Tyber； it is； in comparison with the Thames； no more than an inconsiderable stream； foul； deep； and rapid。 It is navigable by small boats； barks； and lighters； and； for the conveniency of loading and unloading them； there is a handsome quay by the new custom…house； at the Porto di Ripetta； provided with stairs of each side； and adorned with an elegant fountain； that yields abundance of excellent water。
We are told that the bed of this river has been considerably raised by the rubbish of old Rome； and this is the reason usually given for its being so apt to overflow its banks。 A citizen of Rome told me； that a friend of his lately digging to lay the foundation of a new house in the lower part of the city； near the bank of the river； discovered the pavement of an antient street； at the depth of thirty…nine feet from the present surface of the earth。 He therefore concluded that modern Rome is near forty feet higher in this place； than the site of the antient city； and that the bed of the river is raised in proportion； but this is altogether incredible。 Had the bed of the Tyber been antiently forty feet lower at Rome； than it is at present； there must have been a fall or cataract in it immediately above this tract； as it is not pretended that the bed of it is raised in any part above the city； otherwise such an elevation would have obstructed its course； and then it would have overflowed the whole Campania。 There is nothing extraordinary in its present overflowings： they frequently happened of old； and did great mischief to the antient city。 Appian； Dio； and other historians； describe an inundation of the Tiber immediately after the death of Julius Caesar； which inundation was occasioned by the sudden melting of a great quantity of snow upon the Apennines。 This calamity is recorded by Horace in his ode to Augustus。
Vidimus flavum Tiberim retortis Littore Etrusco violenter undis； Ire dejectum monumenta regis； Templaque Vestae： Iliae dum se nimium querenti； Jactat ultorem； vagus et sinistra Labitur ripa； Jove non probante Uxorius Amnis。
Livy expressly says； 〃Ita abundavit Tiberis； ut Ludi Apollinares； circo inundato； extra portam Collinam ad aedem Erycinae Veneris parati sint；〃 〃There was such an inundation of the Tiber that； the Circus being overflowed； the Ludi Appollinares were exhibited without the gate Collina； hard by the temple of Venus Erycina。〃 To this custom of transferring the Ludi Appollinares to another place where the Tyber had overflowed the Circus Maximus； Ovid alludes in his Fasti。
Altera gramineo spectabis equiriacampo Quem Tiberis curvis in latus urget aquis； Qui tamen ejecta si forte tenebitur unda； Coelius accipiet pulverulentus equos。
Another race thy view shall entertain Where bending Tiber skirts the grassy plain； Or should his vagrant stream that plain o'erflow； The Caelian hill the dusty course will show。
The Porta del Popolo （formerly； Flaminia；） by which we entered Rome； is an elegant piece of architecture； adorned with marble columns and statues； executed after the design of Buonaroti。 Within…side you find yourself in a noble piazza； from whence three of the principal streets of Rome are detached。 It is adorned with the famous Aegyptian obelisk； brought hither from the Circus Maximus； and set up by the architect Dominico Fontana in the pontificate of Sixtus V。 Here is likewise a beautiful fountain designed by the same artist； and at the beginning of the two principal streets； are two very elegant churches fronting each other。 Such an august entrance cannot fail to impress a stranger with a sublime idea of this venerable city。
Having given our names at the gate； we repaired to the dogana； or custom…house； where our trunks and carriage were searched； and here we were surrounded by a number of servitori de piazza； offering their services with the most disagreeable importunity。 Though I told them several times I had no occasion for any； three of them took possession of the coach； one mounting before and two of them behind； and thus we proceeded to the Piazza d'Espagna； where the person lived to whose house I was directed。 Strangers that come to Rome seldom put up at public inns； but go directly to lodging houses； of which there is great plenty in this quarter。 The Piazza d'Espagna is open； airy； and pleasantly situated in a high part of the city immediately under the Colla Pinciana； and adorned with two fine fountains。 Here most of the English reside： the apartments are generally commodious and well furnished； and the lodgers are well supplied with provisions and all necessaries of life。 But； if I studied oeconomy； I would choose another part of the town than the Piazza d'Espagna； which is； besides； at a great distance from the antiquities。 For a decent first floor and two bed…chambers on the second； I payed no more than a scudo （five shillings） per day。 Our table was plentifull