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son of a Tanner in Essex； and had been put apprentice to a Taylor。＇ The baptistery； which stands by it； was an antient temple； said to be dedicated to Mars。 There are some good statues of marble within； and one or two of bronze on the outside of the doors； but it is chiefly celebrated for the embossed work of its brass gates； by Lorenzo Ghiberti； which Buonaroti used to say； deserved to be made the gates of Paradise。 I viewed them with pleasure： but still I retained a greater veneration for those of Pisa； which I had first admired： a preference which either arises from want of taste； or from the charm of novelty； by which the former were recommended to my attention。 Those who would have a particular detail of every thing worth seeing at Florence； comprehending churches； libraries； palaces； tombs； statues； pictures； fountains； bridge； etc。 may consult Keysler； who is so laboriously circumstantial in his descriptions； that I never could peruse them； without suffering the headache； and recollecting the old observation； that the German genius lies more in the back than in the brain。
I was much disappointed in the chapel of St。 Lorenzo。 Notwithstanding the great profusion of granite； porphyry； jasper； verde antico； lapis…lazuli； and other precious stones； representing figures in the way of marquetry； I think the whole has a gloomy effect。 These pietre commesse are better calculated for cabinets； than for ornaments to great buildings； which ought to be large masses proportioned to the greatness of the edifice。 The compartments are so small； that they produce no effect in giving the first impression when one enters the place； except to give an air of littleness to the whole； just as if a grand saloon was covered with pictures painted in miniature。 If they have as little regard to proportion and perspective； when they paint the dome； which is not yet finished； this chapel will； in my opinion； remain a monument of ill taste and extravagance。
The court of the palace of Pitti is formed by three sides of an elegant square； with arcades all round； like the palace of Holyrood house at Edinburgh； and the rustic work； which constitutes the lower part of the building； gives it an air of strength and magnificence。 In this court； there is a fine fountain； in which the water trickles down from above； and here is also an admirable antique statue of Hercules； inscribed LUSIPPOI ERGON； the work of Lysippus。
The apartments of this palace are generally small； and many of them dark。 Among the paintings the most remarkable is the Madonna de la Seggiola； by Raphael； counted one of the best coloured pieces of that great master。 If I was allowed to find fault with the performance； I should pronounce it defective in dignity and sentiment。 It is the expression of a peasant rather than of the mother of God。 She exhibits the fondness and joy of a young woman towards her firstborn son； without that rapture of admiration which we expect to find in the Virgin Mary； while she contemplates； in the fruit of her own womb； the Saviour of mankind。 In other respects； it is a fine figure； gay； agreeable； and very expressive of maternal tenderness； and the bambino is extremely beautiful。 There was an English painter employed in copying this picture； and what he had done was executed with great success。 I am one of those who think it very possible to imitate the best pieces in such a manner； that even the connoisseurs shall not be able to distinguish the original from the copy。 After all； I do not set up for a judge in these matters； and very likely I may incur the ridicule of the virtuosi for the remarks I have made： but I am used to speak my mind freely on all subjects that fall under the cognizance of my senses； though I must as freely own； there is something more than common sense required to discover and distinguish the more delicate beauties of painting。 I can safely say； however； that without any daubing at all； I am； very sincerelyYour affectionate humble servant。
LETTER XXIX
NICE； February 20； 1765。
DEAR SIR；Having seen all the curiosities of Florence； and hired a good travelling coach for seven weeks； at the price of seven zequines； something less than three guineas and a half； we set out post for Rome； by the way of Sienna； where we lay the first night。 The country through which we passed is mountainous but agreeable。 Of Sienna I can say nothing from my own observation； but that we were indifferently lodged in a house that stunk like a privy； and fared wretchedly at supper。 The city is large and well built： the inhabitants pique themselves upon their politeness； and the purity of their dialect。 Certain it is； some strangers reside in this place on purpose to learn the best pronunciation of the Italian tongue。 The Mosaic pavement of their duomo； or cathedral； has been much admired； as well as the history of Aeneas Sylvius； afterwards pope Pius II。； painted on the walls of the library； partly by Pietro Perugino； and partly by his pupil Raphael D'Urbino。
Next day； at Buon Convento； where the emperor Henry VII。 was poisoned by a friar with the sacramental wafer； I refused to give money to the hostler； who in revenge put two young unbroke stone…horses in the traces next to the coach； which became so unruly； that before we had gone a quarter of a mile； they and the postilion were rolling in the dust。 In this situation they made such efforts to disengage themselves； and kicked with such violence； that I imagined the carriage and all our trunks would have been beaten in pieces。 We leaped out of the coach； however； without sustaining any personal damage； except the fright； nor was any hurt done to the vehicle。 But the horses were terribly bruised； and almost strangled； before they could be disengaged。 Exasperated at the villany of the hostler； I resolved to make a complaint to the uffiziale or magistrate of the place。 I found him wrapped in an old； greasy； ragged； great…coat； sitting in a wretched apartment； without either glass； paper； or boards in the windows； and there was no sort of furniture but a couple of broken chairs and a miserable truckle…bed。 He looked pale； and meagre； and had more the air of a half…starved prisoner than of a magistrate。 Having heard my complaint； he came forth into a kind of outward room or bellfrey； and rung a great bell with his own hand。 In consequence of this signal； the postmaster came up stairs； and I suppose he was the first man in the place； for the uffiziale stood before him cap…in…hand； and with great marks of humble respect repeated the complaint I had made。 This man assured me； with an air of conscious importance； that he himself had ordered the hostler to supply me with those very horses； which were the best in his stable； and that the misfortune which happened was owing to the misconduct of the fore…postilion； who did not keep the fore…horses to a proper speed proportioned to the mettle of the other two。 As he took the affair upon himself； and I perceived had an ascendancy over the magistrate； I contented myself with saying； I was certain the two horses had been put to the coach on purpose； either to hu