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travels through france and italy-第83章

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hink there is neither rhime nor  reason in protracting this tedious epistle; I shall conclude it  with the old burden of my song; that I am alwaysYour  affectionate humble servant。

LETTER XXVIII

NICE; February 5; 1765。

DEAR SIR;Your entertaining letter of the fifth of last month;  was a very charitable and a very agreeable donation: but your  suspicion is groundless。 I assure you; upon my honour; I have no  share whatever in any of the disputes which agitate the public:  nor do I know any thing of your political transactions; except  what I casually see in one of your newspapers; with the perusal  of which I am sometimes favoured by our consul at Villefranche。  You insist upon my being more particular in my remarks on what I  saw at Florence; and I shall obey the injunction。 The famous  gallery which contains the antiquities; is the third story of a  noble stone…edifice; built in the form of the Greek Pi; the upper  part fronting the river Arno; and one of the legs adjoining to  the ducal…palace; where the courts of justice are held。 As the  house of Medici had for some centuries resided in the palace of  Pitti; situated on the other side of the river; a full mile from  these tribunals; the architect Vasari; who planned the new  edifice; at the same time contrived a corridore; or covered  passage; extending from the palace of Pitti along one of the  bridges; to the gallery of curiosities; through which the grand… duke passed unseen; when he was disposed either to amuse himself  with his antiquities; or to assist at his courts of judicature:  but there is nothing very extraordinary either in the contrivance  or execution of this corridore。

If I resided in Florence I would give something extraordinary for  permission to walk every day in the gallery; which I should much  prefer to the Lycaeum; the groves of Academus; or any porch or  philosophical alley in Athens or in Rome。 Here by viewing the  statues and busts ranged on each side; I should become acquainted  with the faces of all the remarkable personages; male and female;  of antiquity; and even be able to trace their different  characters from the expression of their features。 This collection  is a most excellent commentary upon the Roman historians;  particularly Suetonius and Dion Cassius。 There was one  circumstance that struck me in viewing the busts of Caracalla;  both here and in the Capitol at Rome; there was a certain  ferocity in the eyes; which seemed to contradict the sweetness of  the other features; and remarkably justified the epithet  Caracuyl; by which he was distinguished by the antient  inhabitants of North…Britain。 In the language of the Highlanders  caracuyl signifies cruel eye; as we are given to understand by  the ingenious editor of Fingal; who seems to think that Caracalla  is no other than the Celtic word; adapted to the pronunciation of  the Romans: but the truth is; Caracalla was the name of a Gaulish  vestment; which this prince affected to wear; and hence he  derived that surname。 The Caracuyl of the Britons; is the same as  the upodra idon of the Greeks; which Homer has so often applied  to his Scolding Heroes。 I like the Bacchanalian; chiefly for the  fine drapery。 The wind; occasioned by her motion; seems to have  swelled and raised it from the parts of the body which it covers。  There is another gay Bacchanalian; in the attitude of dancing;  crowned with ivy; holding in her right hand a bunch of grapes;  and in her left the thyrsus。 The head of the celebrated Flora is  very beautiful: the groupe of Cupid and Psyche; however; did not  give me all the pleasure I expected from it。

Of all the marbles that appear in the open gallery; the following  are those I most admire。 Leda with the Swan; as for Jupiter; in  this transformation; he has much the appearance of a goose。 I  have not seen any thing tamer; but the sculptor has admirably  shewn his art in representing Leda's hand partly hid among the  feathers; which are so lightly touched off; that the very shape  of the fingers are seen underneath。 The statue of a youth;  supposed to be Ganymede; is compared by the connoisseurs to the  celebrated Venus; and as far as I can judge; not without reason:  it is however; rather agreeable than striking; and will please a  connoisseur much more than a common spectator。 I know not whether  it is my regard to the faculty that inhances the value of the  noted Esculapius; who appears with a venerable beard of delicate  workmanship。 He is larger than the life; cloathed in a  magnificent pallium; his left arm resting on a knotted staff;  round which the snake is twined according to Ovid。

Hunc modo serpentem baculum qui nexibus ambit  Perspice

Behold the snake his mystic Rod intwine。

He has in his hand the fascia herbarum; and the crepidae on his  feet。 There is a wild…boar represented lying on one side; which I  admire as a master…piece。 The savageness of his appearance is  finely contrasted with the case and indolence of the attitude。  Were I to meet with a living boar lying with the same expression;  I should be tempted to stroke his bristles。 Here is an elegant  bust of Antinous; the favourite of Adrian; and a beautiful head  of Alexander the Great; turned on one side; with an expression of  languishment and anxiety in his countenance。 The virtuosi are not  agreed about the circumstance in which he is represented; whether  fainting with the loss of blood which he suffered in his  adventure at Oxydrace; or languishing with the fever contracted  by bathing in the Cydnus; or finally complaining to his father  Jove; that there were no other worlds for him to conquer。 The  kneeling Narcissus is a striking figure; and the expression  admirable。 The two Bacchi are perfectly well executed; but (to my  shame be it spoken) I prefer to the antique that which is the  work of Michael Angelo Buonaroti; concerning which the story is  told which you well know。 The artist having been blamed by some  pretended connoisseurs; for not imitating the manner of the  ancients; is said to have privately finished this Bacchus; and  buried it; after having broke off an arm; which he kept as a  voucher。 The statue; being dug up by accident; was allowed by the  best judges; to be a perfect antique; upon which Buonaroti  produced the arm; and claimed his own work。 Bianchi looks upon  this as a fable; but owns that Vasari tells such another of a  child cut in marble by the same artist; which being carried to  Rome; and kept for some time under ground; was dug up as an  antique; and sold for a great deal of money。 I was likewise  attracted by the Morpheus in touchstone; which is described by  Addison; who; by the bye; notwithstanding all his taste; has been  convicted by Bianchi of several gross blunders in his account of  this gallery。

With respect to the famous Venus Pontia; commonly called de  Medicis; which was found at Tivoli; and is kept in a separate  apartment called the Tribuna; I believe I ought to be intirely  silent; or at least conceal my real sentiments; which will  otherwise appear equally absurd and presumptuous。 It must be want  of taste that prevents my feeling that enthusiastic admiration  with which others are inspired at sight of this statue: a st
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