按键盘上方向键 ← 或 → 可快速上下翻页，按键盘上的 Enter 键可回到本书目录页，按键盘上方向键 ↑ 可回到本页顶部！
————未阅读完？加入书签已便下次继续阅读！
thousand pounds sterling。 These arose from a very heavy tax upon land and houses； the portions of maidens； and suits at law； besides the duties upon traffick； a severe gabelle upon the necessaries of life； and a toll upon every eatable entered into this capital。 If we may believe Leti； the grand duke was then able to raise and maintain an army of forty thousand infantry； and three thousand horse； with twelve gallies； two galeasses； and twenty ships of war。 I question if Tuscany can maintain at present above one half of such an armament。 He that now commands the emperor's navy； consisting of a few frigates； is an Englishman； called Acton； who was heretofore captain of a ship in our East India company's service。 He has lately embraced the catholic religion； and been created admiral of Tuscany。
There is a tolerable opera in Florence for the entertainment of the best company； though they do not seem very attentive to the musick。 Italy is certainly the native country of this art； and yet； I do not find the people in general either more musically inclined； or better provided with ears than their neighbours。 Here is also a wretched troop of comedians for the burgeois； and lower class of people： but what seems most to suit the taste of all ranks； is the exhibition of church pageantry。 I had occasion to see a procession； where all the noblesse of the city attended in their coaches； which filled the whole length of the great street called the Corso。 It was the anniversary of a charitable institution in favour of poor maidens； a certain number of whom are portioned every year。 About two hundred of these virgins walked in procession； two and two together； cloathed in violet…coloured wide gowns； with white veils on their heads； and made a very classical appearance。 They were preceded and followed by an irregular mob of penitents in sack…cloth； with lighted tapers； and monks carrying crucifixes； bawling and bellowing the litanies： but the great object was a figure of the Virgin Mary； as big as the life； standing within a gilt frame； dressed in a gold stuff； with a large hoop； a great quantity of false jewels； her face painted and patched； and her hair frizzled and curled in the very extremity of the fashion。 Very little regard had been paid to the image of our Saviour on the cross； but when his lady…mother appeared on the shoulders of three or four lusty friars； the whole populace fell upon their knees in the dirt。 This extraordinary veneration paid to the Virgin； must have been derived originally from the French； who pique themselves on their gallantry to the fair sex。
Amidst all the scenery of the Roman catholic religion； I have never yet seen any of the spectators affected at heart； or discover the least signs of fanaticism。 The very disciplinants； who scourge themselves in the Holy…week； are generally peasants or parties hired for the purpose。 Those of the confrairies； who have an ambition to distinguish themselves on such occasions； take care to secure their backs from the smart； by means of secret armour； either women's boddice； or quilted jackets。 The confrairies are fraternities of devotees； who inlist themselves under the banners of particular saints。 On days of procession they appear in a body dressed as penitents and masked； and distinguished by crosses on their habits。 There is scarce an individual； whether noble or plebeian； who does not belong to one of these associations； which may be compared to the FreeMasons； Gregoreans； and Antigallicans of England。
Just without one of the gates of Florence； there is a triumphal arch erected on occasion of the late emperor's making his public entry； when he succeeded to the dukedom of Tuscany： and herein the summer evenings； the quality resort to take the air in their coaches。 Every carriage stops； and forms a little separate conversazione。 The ladies sit within； and the cicisbei stand on the foot…boards； on each side of the coach； entertaining them with their discourse。 It would be no unpleasant inquiry to trace this sort of gallantry to its original； and investigate all its progress。 The Italians； having been accused of jealousy； were resolved to wipe off the reproach； and； seeking to avoid it for the future； have run into the other extreme。 I know it is generally supposed that the custom of choosing cicisbei； was calculated to prevent the extinction of families； which would otherwise often happen in consequence of marriages founded upon interest； without any mutual affection in the contracting parties。 How far this political consideration may have weighed against the jealous and vindictive temper of the Italians； I will not pretend to judge： but； certain it is； every married lady in this country has her cicisbeo； or servente； who attends her every where； and on all occasions； and upon whose privileges the husband dares not encroach； without incurring the censure and ridicule of the whole community。 For my part； I would rather be condemned for life to the gallies； than exercise the office of a cicisbeo； exposed to the intolerable caprices and dangerous resentment of an Italian virago。 I pretend not to judge of the national character； from my own observation： but； if the portraits drawn by Goldoni in his Comedies are taken from nature； I would not hesitate to pronounce the Italian women the most haughty； insolent； capricious； and revengeful females on the face of the earth。 Indeed their resentments are so cruelly implacable； and contain such a mixture of perfidy； that； in my opinion； they are very unfit subjects for comedy； whose province it is； rather to ridicule folly than to stigmatize such atrocious vice。
You have often heard it said； that the purity of the Italian is to be found in the lingua Toscana； and bocca Romana。 Certain it is； the pronunciation of the Tuscans is disagreeably guttural： the letters C and G they pronounce with an aspiration； which hurts the ear of an Englishman； and is I think rather rougher than that of the X； in Spanish。 It sounds as if the speaker had lost his palate。 I really imagined the first man I heard speak in Pisa； had met with that misfortune in the course of his amours。
One of the greatest curiosities you meet with in Italy； is the Improvisatore； such is the name given to certain individuals； who have the surprising talent of reciting verses extempore； on any subject you propose。 Mr。 Corvesi； my landlord； has a son； a Franciscan friar； who is a great genius in this way。
When the subject is given； his brother tunes his violin to accompany him； and he begins to rehearse in recitative； with wonderful fluency and precision。 Thus he will； at a minute's warning； recite two or three hundred verses； well turned； and well adapted； and generally mingled with an elegant compliment to the company。 The Italians are so fond of poetry； that many of them； have the best part of Ariosto； Tasso； and Petrarch； by heart； and these are the great sources from which the Improvisatori draw their rhimes； cadence； and turns of expression。 But； lest you should think there is neither rhime nor reason in protracting this tedious epistle； I shall conclude it wi