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taph erected by Pope Gregory XIII。 to the memory of his brother Giovanni Buoncampagni。 It is called the Monumentum Gregorianum； of a violet…coloured marble from Scravezza in this neighbourhood； adorned with a couple of columns of Touchstone； and two beautiful spherical plates of Alabaster。＇ At the other end of the corridore； there is a range of antient sepulchral stones ornamented with basso…relievo brought hither from different parts by the Pisan Fleets in the course of their expeditions。 I was struck with the figure of a woman lying dead on a tomb…stone； covered with a piece of thin drapery； so delicately cut as to shew all the flexures of the attitude； and even all the swellings and sinuosities of the muscles。 Instead of stone； it looks like a sheet of wet linen。 ＇One of these antiquities representing the Hunting of Meleager was converted into a coffin for the Countess Beatrice； mother of the famous Countess Mathilda； it is now fixed to the outside of the church wall just by one of the doors； and is a very elegant piece of sculpture。 Near the same place is a fine pillar of Porphyry supporting the figure of a Lion； and a kind of urn which seems to be a Sarcophagus； though an inscription round the Base declares it is a Talentum in which the antient Pisans measured the Census or Tax which they payed to Augustus： but in what metal or specie this Census was payed we are left to divine。 There are likewise in the Campo Santo two antique Latin edicts of the Pisan Senate injoining the citizens to go into mourning for the Death of Caius and Lucius Caesar the Sons of Agrippa； and heirs declared of the Emperor。 Fronting this Cemetery； on the other side of the Piazza of the Dome； is a large； elegant Hospital in which the sick are conveniently and comfortably lodged； entertained； and attended。＇
For four zechines I hired a return…coach and four from Pisa to Florence。 This road； which lies along the Arno； is very good； and the country is delightful； variegated with hill and vale； wood and water； meadows and corn…fields； planted and inclosed like the counties of Middlesex and Hampshire； with this difference； however； that all the trees in this tract were covered with vines； and the ripe clusters black and white； hung down from every bough in a most luxuriant and romantic abundance。 The vines in this country are not planted in rows； and propped with sticks； as in France and the county of Nice； but twine around the hedge… row trees； which they almost quite cover with their foliage and fruit。 The branches of the vine are extended from tree to tree； exhibiting beautiful festoons of real leaves； tendrils； and swelling clusters a foot long。 By this oeconomy the ground of the inclosure is spared for corn； grass； or any other production。 The trees commonly planted for the purpose of sustaining the vines； are maple； elm； and aller； with which last the banks of the Arno abound。 ＇It would have been still more for the advantage of the Country and the Prospect； if instead of these they had planted fruit trees for the purpose。＇ This river； which is very inconsiderable with respect to the quantity of water； would be a charming pastoral stream； if it was transparent； but it is always muddy and discoloured。 About ten or a dozen miles below Florence； there are some marble quarries on the side of it； from whence the blocks are conveyed in boats； when there is water enough in the river to float them； that is after heavy rains； or the melting of the snow upon the mountains of Umbria； being part of the Apennines； from whence it takes its rise。
Florence is a noble city； that still retains all the marks of a majestic capital； such as piazzas； palaces； fountains； bridges； statues； and arcades。 I need not te11 you that the churches here are magnificent； and adorned not only with pillars of oriental granite； porphyry； Jasper； verde antico； and other precious stones； but also with capital pieces of painting by the most eminent masters。 Several of these churches； however； stand without fronts； for want of money to complete the plans。 It may also appear superfluous to mention my having viewed the famous gallery of antiquities； the chapel of St。 Lorenzo； the palace of Pitti； the cathedral； the baptisterium； Ponte de Trinita； with its statues； the triumphal arch； and every thing which is commonly visited in this metropolis。 But all these objects having been circumstantially described by twenty different authors of travels； I shall not trouble you with a repetition of trite observations。
That part of the city which stands on each side of the river； makes a very elegant appearance； to which the four bridges and the stone…quay between them； contribute in a great measure。 I lodged at the widow Vanini's； an English house delightfully situated in this quarter。 The landlady； who is herself a native of England； we found very obliging。 The lodging…rooms are comfortable； and the entertainment is good and reasonable。 There is a considerable number of fashionable people at Florence； and many of them in good circumstances。 They affect a gaiety in their dress； equipage； and conversation； but stand very much on their punctilio with strangers； and will not； without great reluctance； admit into their assemblies any lady of another country； whose noblesse is not ascertained by a title。 This reserve is in some measure excusable among a people who are extremely ignorant of foreign customs； and who know that in their own country； every person； even the most insignificant； who has any pretensions to family； either inherits； or assumes the title of principe； conte； or marchese。
With all their pride； however； the nobles of Florence are humble enough to enter into partnership with shop…keepers； and even to sell wine by retail。 It is an undoubted fact； that in every palace or great house in this city； there is a little window fronting the street； provided with an iron…knocker； and over it hangs an empty flask； by way of sign…post。 Thither you send your servant to buy a bottle of wine。 He knocks at the little wicket； which is opened immediately by a domestic； who supplies him with what he wants； and receives the money like the waiter of any other cabaret。 It is pretty extraordinary； that it should not be deemed a disparagement in a nobleman to sell half a pound of figs； or a palm of ribbon or tape； or to take money for a flask of sour wine； and yet be counted infamous to match his daughter in the family of a person who has distinguished himself in any one of the learned professions。
Though Florence be tolerably populous； there seems to be very little trade of any kind in it： but the inhabitants flatter themselves with the prospect of reaping great advantage from the residence of one of the arch…dukes； for whose reception they are now repairing the palace of Pitti。 I know not what the revenues of Tuscany may amount to； since the succession of the princes of Lorraine； but； under the last dukes of the Medici family； they were said to produce two millions of crowns； equal to five hundred thousand pounds sterling。 These arose from a very heavy tax upon land and houses； the portions of m