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solitude； which is far from being unpleasant to a man of a contemplative turn of mind。 For my part； I cannot bear the tumult of a populous commercial city； and the solitude that reigns in Pisa would with me be a strong motive to choose it as a place of residence。 Not that this would be the only inducement for living at Pisa。 Here is some good company； and even a few men of taste and learning。 The people in general are counted sociable and polite； and there is great plenty of provisions； at a very reasonable rate。 At some distance from the more frequented parts of the city； a man may hire a large house for thirty crowns a year： but near the center； you cannot have good lodgings； ready furnished； for less than a scudo （about five shillings） a day。 The air in summer is reckoned unwholesome by the exhalations arising from stagnant water in the neighbourhood of the city； which stands in the midst of a fertile plain； low and marshy： yet these marshes have been considerably drained； and the air is much meliorated。 As for the Arno； it is no longer navigated by vessels of any burthen。 The university of Pisa is very much decayed； and except the little business occasioned by the emperor's gallies； which are built in this town； ＇This is a mistake。 No gallies have been built here for a great many years； and the dock is now converted into stables for the Grand Duke's Horse Guards。＇ I know of no commerce it carried on： perhaps the inhabitants live on the produce of the country； which consists of corn； wine； and cattle。 They are supplied with excellent water for drinking； by an aqueduct consisting of above five thousand arches； begun by Cosmo； and finished by Ferdinand I。 Grand…dukes of Tuscany； it conveys the water from the mountains at the distance of five miles。 This noble city； formerly the capital of a flourishing and powerful republic； which contained above one hundred and fifty thousand inhabitants； within its walls； is now so desolate that grass grows in the open streets； and the number of its people do not exceed sixteen thousand。
You need not doubt but I visited the Campanile； or hanging…tower； which is a beautiful cylinder of eight stories； each adorned with a round of columns； rising one above another。 It stands by the cathedral； and inclines so far on one side from the perpendicular； that in dropping a plummet from the top； which is one hundred and eighty…eight feet high； it falls sixteen feet from the base。 For my part； I should never have dreamed that this inclination proceeded from any other cause； than an accidental subsidence of the foundation on this side； if some connoisseurs had not taken great pains to prove it was done on purpose by the architect。 Any person who has eyes may see that the pillars on that side are considerably sunk； and this is the case with the very threshold of the door by which you enter。 I think it would have been a very preposterous ambition in the architects； to show how far they could deviate from the perpendicular in this construction； because in that particular any common mason could have rivalled them； ＇All the world knows that a Building with such Inclination may be carried up till a line drawn from the Centre of Gravity falls without the Circumference of the Base。＇ and if they really intended it as a specimen of their art； they should have shortened the pilasters on that side； so as to exhibit them intire； without the appearance of sinking。 These leaning towers are not unfrequent in Italy； there is one at Bologna； another at Venice； a third betwixt Venice and Ferrara； and a fourth at Ravenna； and the inclination in all of them has been supposed owing to the foundations giving way on one side only。
In the cathedral； which is a large Gothic pile； ＇This Edifice is not absolutely Gothic。 It was built in the Twelfth Century after the Design of a Greek Architect from Constantinople； where by that time the art was much degenerated。 The Pillars of Granite are mostly from the Islands of Ebba and Giglia on the coast of Tuscany； where those quarries were worked by the antient Romans。 The Giullo； and the verde antico are very beautiful species of marble； yellow and green； the first； antiently called marmor numidicum； came from Africa； the other was found （according to Strabo） on the mons Taygetus in Lacedemonia： but； at present； neither the one nor the other is to be had except among the ruins of antiquity。＇ there is a great number of massy pillars of porphyry； granite； jasper； giullo； and verde antico； together with some good pictures and statues： but the greatest curiosity is that of the brass…gates； designed and executed by John of Bologna； representing； embossed in different compartments； the history of the Old and New Testament。 I was so charmed with this work； that I could have stood a whole day to examine and admire it。 In the Baptisterium； which stands opposite to this front； there are some beautiful marbles； particularly the font； and a pulpit； supported by the statues of different animals。
Between the cathedral and this building； about one hundred paces on one side； is the famous burying…ground； called Campo Santo； from its being covered with earth brought from Jerusalem。 It is an oblong square； surrounded by a very high wall； and always kept shut。 Within…side there is a spacious corridore round the whole space； which is a noble walk for a contemplative philosopher。 It is paved chiefly with flat grave…stones： the walls are painted in fresco by Ghiotto； Giottino； Stefano； Bennoti； Bufalmaco； and some others of his cotemporaries and disciples； who flourished immediately after the restoration of painting。 The subjects are taken from the Bible。 Though the manner is dry； the drawing incorrect； the design generally lame； and the colouring unnatural； yet there is merit in the expression： and the whole remains as a curious monument of the efforts made by this noble art immediately after her revival。 ＇The History of Job by Giotto is much admired。＇ Here are some deceptions in perspective equally ingenious and pleasing； particularly the figures of certain animals； which exhibit exactly the same appearance； from whatever different points of view they are seen。 One division of the burying…ground consists of a particular compost； which in nine days consumes the dead bodies to the bones： in all probability； it is no other than common earth mixed with quick…lime。 At one corner of the corridore； there are the pictures of three bodies represented in the three different stages of putrefaction which they undergo when laid in this composition。 At the end of the three first days； the body is bloated and swelled； and the features are enlarged and distorted to such a degree； as fills the spectator with horror。 At the sixth day； the swelling is subsided； and all the muscular flesh hangs loosened from the bones： at the ninth； nothing but the skeleton remains。 There is a small neat chapel at one end of the Campo Santo； with some tombs； on one of which is a beautiful bust by Buona Roti。 ＇Here is a sumptuous cenotaph erected by Pope Gregory XIII。 to the memory of his brother Giovanni Buoncampagni。 It is called