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assines； or little white houses； scattered among woods of olive…trees； that cover the hills； and these are the habitations of the velvet and damask weavers。 Turning Capo Fino we entered a bay； where stand the towns of Porto Fino； Lavagna； and Sestri di Levante； at which last we took up our night's lodging。 The house was tolerable； and we had no great reason to complain of the beds： but； the weather being hot； there was a very offensive smell； which proceeded from some skins of beasts new killed； that were spread to dry on an outhouse in the yard。 Our landlord was a butcher； and had very much the looks of an assassin。 His wife was a great masculine virago； who had all the air of having frequented the slaughter…house。 Instead of being welcomed with looks of complaisance； we were admitted with a sort of gloomy condescension； which seemed to say； 〃We don't much like your company； but； however； you shall have a night's lodging in favour of the patron of the gondola； who is our acquaintance。〃 In short； we had a very bad supper； miserably dressed； passed a very disagreeable night； and payed a very extravagant bill in the morning； without being thanked for our custom。 I was very glad to get out of the house with my throat uncut。
Sestri di Levante is a little town pleasantly situated on the seaside； but has not the conveniency of a harbour。 The fish taken here is mostly carried to Genoa。 This is likewise the market for their oil； and the paste called macaroni； of which they make a good quantity。
Next day； we skirted a very barren coast； consisting of almost perpendicular rocks； on the faces of which； however； we saw many peasants' houses and hanging terraces for vines； made by dint of incredible labour。 In the afternoon； we entered by the Porti di Venere into the bay； or gulf of Spetia or Spezza； which was the Portus Lunae of the ancients。 This bay； at the mouth of which lies the island Palmaria； forms a most noble and secure harbour； capacious enough to contain all the navies in Christendom。 The entrance on one side is defended by a small fort built above the town of Porto Venere； which is a very poor place。 Farther in there is a battery of about twenty guns； and on the right hand； opposite to Porto Venere； is a block…house； founded on a rock in the sea。 At the bottom of the bay is the town of Spetia on the left； and on the right that of Lerici； defended by a castle of very little strength or consequence。 The whole bay is surrounded with plantations of olives and oranges； and makes a very delightful appearance。 In case of a war； this would be an admirable station for a British squadron； as it lies so near Genoa and Leghorn； and has a double entrance； by means of which the cruisers could sail in and out continually； which way soever the wind might chance to sit。 I am sure the fortifications would give very little disturbance。
At the post…house in Lerici； the accommodation is intolerable。 We were almost poisoned at supper。 I found the place where I was to lie so close and confined； that I could not breathe in it； and therefore lay all night in an outward room upon four chairs； with a leather portmanteau for my pillow。 For this entertainment I payed very near a loui'dore。 Such bad accommodation is the less excusable； as the fellow has a great deal of business； this being a great thoroughfare for travellers going into Italy； or returning from thence。
I might have saved some money by prosecuting my voyage directly by sea to Leghorn： but； by this time； we were all heartily tired of the water； the business then was to travel by land to Florence； by the way of Pisa； which is seven posts distant from Lerici。 Those who have not their own carriage must either hire chaises to perform the whole journey； or travel by way of cambiatura； which is that of changing the chaises every post； as the custom is in England。 In this case the great inconvenience arises from your being obliged to shift your baggage every post。 The chaise or calesse of this country； is a wretched machine with two wheels； as uneasy as a common cart； being indeed no other than what we should call in England a very ill…contrived one…horse chair； narrow； naked； shattered and shabby。 For this vehicle and two horses you pay at the rate of eight paoli a stage； or four shillings sterling； and the postilion expects two paoli for his gratification： so that every eight miles cost about five shillings； and four only； if you travel in your own carriage； as in that case you pay no more than at the rate of three paoli a horse。
About three miles from Lerici； we crossed the Magra； which appeared as a rivulet almost dry； and in half a mile farther arrived at Sarzana； a small town at the extremity of the Genoese territories； where we changed horses。 Then entering the principalities of Massa and Carrara； belonging to the duke of Modena； we passed Lavenza； which seems to be a decayed fort with a small garrison； and dined at Massa； which is an agreeable little town； where the old dutchess of Modena resides。 Notwithstanding all the expedition we could make； it was dark before we passed the Cerchio； which is an inconsiderable stream in the neighbourhood of Pisa； where we arrived about eight in the evening。
The country from Sarzana to the frontiers of Tuscany is a narrow plain； bounded on the right by the sea； and on the left by the Apennine mountains。 It is well cultivated and inclosed； consisting of meadow…ground； corn fields； plantations of olives； and the trees that form the hedge…rows serve as so many props to the vines； which are twisted round them； and continued from one to another。 After entering the dominions of Tuscany； we travelled through a noble forest of oak…trees of a considerable extent； which would have appeared much more agreeable； had we not been benighted and apprehensive of robbers。 The last post but one in this days journey； is at the little town of Viareggio； a kind of sea…port on the Mediterranean； belonging to Lucia。 The roads are indifferent； and the accommodation is execrable。 I was glad to find myself housed in a very good inn at Pisa； where I promised myself a good night's rest； and was not disappointed。 I heartily wish you the same pleasure； and am very sincerelyYours。
LETTER XXVII
NICE； January 28； 1765。
DEAR SIR；Pisa is a fine old city that strikes you with the same veneration you would feel at sight of an antient temple which bears the marks of decay； without being absolutely dilapidated。 The houses are well built； the streets open； straight； and well paved； the shops well furnished； and the markets well supplied： there are some elegant palaces； designed by great masters。 The churches are built with taste； and tolerably ornamented。 There is a beautiful wharf of freestone on each side of the river Arno； which runs through the city； and three bridges thrown over it； of which that in the middle is of marble； a pretty piece of architecture： but the number of inhabitants is very inconsiderable； and this very circumstance gives it an air of majestic solitude； which is far from being unpleasant to a man of a contemplative turn of mind。 For my part；