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ocence； he still retains the favour of his sovereign； who could not well be supposed to share in the booty。 〃There are mysteries in politics which were never dreamed of in our philosophy； Horatio！〃 The possession of Genoa might have proved a troublesome bone of contention； which it might be convenient to lose by accident。 Certain it is； when the Austrians returned after their expulsion； in order to retake the city； the engineer； being questioned by the general； declared he would take the place in fifteen days； on pain of losing his head； and in four days after this declaration the Austrians retired。 This anecdote I learned from a worthy gentleman of this country； who had it from the engineer's own mouth。 Perhaps it was the will of heaven。 You see how favourably； providence has interposed in behalf of the reigning empress of Russia； first in removing her husband： secondly in ordaining the assassination of prince Ivan； for which the perpetrators have been so liberally rewarded； it even seems determined to shorten the life of her own son； the only surviving rival from whom she had any thing to fear。
The Genoese have now thrown themselves into the arms of France for protection： I know not whether it would not have been a greater mark of sagacity to cultivate the friendship of England； with which they carry on an advantageous commerce。 While the English are masters of the Mediterranean； they will always have it in their power to do incredible damage all along the Riviera； to ruin the Genoese trade by sea； and even to annoy the capital； for notwithstanding all the pains they have taken to fortify the mole and the city； I am greatly deceived if it is not still exposed to the danger； not only of a bombardment； but even of a cannonade。 I am even sanguine enough to think a resolute commander might； with a strong squadron； sail directly into the harbour； without sustaining much damage； notwithstanding all the cannon of the place； which are said to amount to near five hundred。 I have seen a cannonade of above four hundred pieces of artillery； besides bombs and cohorns； maintained for many hours； without doing much mischief。
During the last siege of Genoa； the French auxiliaries were obliged to wait at Monaco； until a gale of wind had driven the English squadron off the coast； and then they went along shore in small vessels at the imminent risque of being taken by the British cruisers。 By land I apprehend their march would be altogether impracticable； if the king of Sardinia had any interest to oppose it。 He might either guard the passes； or break up the road in twenty different places； so as to render it altogether impassable。 Here it may not be amiss to observe； that when Don Philip advanced from Nice with his army to Genoa； he was obliged to march so close to the shore； that in above fifty different places； the English ships might have rendered the road altogether impassable。 The path； which runs generally along the face of a precipice washed by the sea； is so narrow that two men on horseback can hardly pass each other； and the road itself so rugged； slippery； and dangerous； that the troopers were obliged to dismount； and lead their horses one by one。 On the other hand； baron de Leutrum； who was at the head of a large body of Piedmontese troops； had it in his power to block up the passes of the mountains； and even to destroy this road in such a manner； that the enemy could not possibly advance。 Why these precautions were not taken； I do not pretend to explain： neither can I tell you wherefore the prince of Monaco； who is a subject and partizan of France； was indulged with a neutrality for his town； which served as a refreshing…place； a safe port； and an intermediate post for the French succours sent from Marseilles to Genoa。 This I will only venture to affirm； that the success and advantage of great alliances are often sacrificed to low； partial； selfish； and sordid considerations。 The town of Monaco is commanded by every heighth in its neighbourhood； and might be laid in ashes by a bomb…ketch in four hours by sea。
I was fortunate enough to be recommended to a lady in Genoa； who treated us with great politeness and hospitality。 She introduced me to an abbate； a man of letters； whose conversation was extremely agreeable。 He already knew me by reputation； and offered to make me known to some of the first persons in the republic； with whom he lived in intimacy。 The lady is one of the most intelligent and best…bred persons I have known in any country。 We assisted at her conversazione； which was numerous。 She pressed us to pass the winter at Genoa； and indeed I was almost persuaded： but I had attachments at Nice； from which I could not easily disengage myself。
The few days we staved at Genoa were employed in visiting the most remarkable churches and palaces。 In some of the churches； particularly that of the Annunciata； I found a profusion of ornaments； which had more magnificence than taste。 There is a great number of pictures； but very few of them are capital pieces。 I had heard much of the ponte Carignano； which did not at all answer my expectation。 It is a bridge that unites two eminences which form the higher part of the city； and the houses in the bottom below do not rise so high as the springing of its arches。 There is nothing at all curious in its construction； nor any way remarkable； except the heighth of the piers from which the arches are sprung。 Hard by the bridge there is an elegant church； from the top of which you have a very rich and extensive prospect of the city； the sea and the adjacent country； which looks like a continent of groves and villas。 The only remarkable circumstance about the cathedral； which is Gothic and gloomy； is the chapel where the pretended bones of John the Baptist are deposited； and in which thirty silver lamps are continually burning。 I had a curiosity to see the palaces of Durazzo and Doria； but it required more trouble to procure admission than I was willing to give myself： as for the arsenal； and the rostrum of an ancient galley which was found by accident in dragging the harbour； I postponed seeing them till my return。
Having here provided myself with letters of credit for Florence and Rome； I hired the same boat which had brought us hither； to carry us forward to Lerici； which is a small town about half way between Genoa and Leghorn； where travellers； who are tired of the sea； take post…chaises to continue their route by land to Pisa and Florence。 I payed three loui'dores for this voyage of about fifty miles； though I might have had a feluca for less money。 When you land on the wharf at Genoa； you are plied by the feluca men just as you are plied by the watermen at Hungerford…stairs in London。 They are always ready to set off at a minute's warning for Lerici； Leghorn； Nice； Antibes； Marseilles； and every part of the Riviera。
The wind being still unfavourable； though the weather was delightful； we rowed along shore； passing by several pretty towns； villages； and a vast number of cassines； or little white houses； scattered among woods of olive…trees； that cover the hills； and t