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tenance on which they live。 Next day we rowed by Vado and Savona； which last is a large town； with a strong citadel； and a harbour； which was formerly capable of receiving large ships： but it fell a sacrifice to the jealousy of the Genoese； who have partly choaked it up； on pretence that it should not afford shelter to the ships of war belonging to those states which might be at enmity with the republic。
Then we passed Albifola； Sestri di Ponente； Novi； Voltri； and a great number of villages； villas； and magnificent palaces belonging to the Genoese nobility； which form almost a continued chain of buildings along the strand for thirty miles。
About five in the afternoon； we skirted the fine suburbs of St。 Pietro d' Arena； and arrived at Genoa； which makes a dazzling appearance when viewed from the sea； rising like an amphitheatre in a circular form from the water's edge； a considerable way up the mountains； and surrounded on the land side by a double wall； the most exterior of which is said to extend fifteen miles in circuit。 The first object that strikes your eye at a distance； is a very elegant pharos； or lighthouse； built on the projection of a rock on the west side of the harbour； so very high； that； in a clear day； you may see it at the distance of thirty miles。 Turning the light…house point； you find yourself close to the mole； which forms the harbour of Genoa。 It is built at a great expence from each side of the bay； so as to form in the sea two long magnificent jettes。 At the extremity of each is another smaller lanthorn。 These moles are both provided with brass…cannon； and between them is the entrance into the harbour。 But this is still so wide as to admit a great sea； which； when the wind blows hard from south and south…west； is very troublesome to the shipping。 Within the mole there is a smaller harbour or wet dock； called Darsena； for the gallies of the republic。 We passed through a considerable number of ships and vessels lying at anchor； and landing at the water…gate； repaired to an inn called La Croix de Malthe in the neighbourhood of the harbour。 Here we met with such good entertainment as prepossessed us in favour of the interior parts of Italy； and contributed with other motives to detain us some days in this city。 But I have detained you so long； that I believe you wish I may proceed no farther； and therefore I take my leave for the present； being very sincerely Yours。
LETTER XXVI
NICE； January 15； 1765。
DEAR SIR；It is not without reason that Genoa is called La superba。 The city itself is very stately； and the nobles are very proud。 Some few of them may be proud of their wealth： but； in general； their fortunes are very small。 My friend Mr。 R assured me that many Genoese noblemen had fortunes of half a million of livres per annum： but the truth is； the whole revenue of the state does not exceed this sum； and the livre of Genoa is but about nine pence sterling。 There are about half a dozen of their nobles who have ten thousand a year： but the majority have not above a twentieth part of that sum。 They live with great parsimony in their families； and wear nothing but black in public； so that their expences are but small。 If a Genoese nobleman gives an entertainment once a quarter； he is said to live upon the fragments all the rest of the year。 I was told that one of them lately treated his friends； and left the entertainment to the care of his son； who ordered a dish of fish that cost a zechine； which is equal to about ten shillings sterling。 The old gentleman no sooner saw it appear on the table； than unable to suppress his concern； he burst into tears； and exclaimed； Ah Figliuolo indegno！ Siamo in Rovina！ Siamo in precipizio！ Ah； Prodigal！ ruined！ undone！
I think the pride or ostentation of the Italians in general takes a more laudable turn than that of other nations。 A Frenchman lays out his whole revenue upon tawdry suits of cloaths； or in furnishing a magnificent repas of fifty or a hundred dishes； one half of which are not eatable nor intended to be eaten。 His wardrobe goes to the fripier； his dishes to the dogs； and himself to the devil； and after his decease no vestige of him remains。 A Genoese； on the other hand； keeps himself and his family at short allowance； that he may save money to build palaces and churches； which remain to after…ages so many monuments of his taste； piety； and munificence； and in the mean time give employment and bread to the poor and industrious。 There are some Genoese nobles who have each five or six elegant palaces magnificently furnished； either in the city； or in different parts of the Riviera。 The two streets called Strada Balbi and Strada Nuova； are continued double ranges of palaces adorned with gardens and fountains： but their being painted on the outside has； in my opinion； a poor effect。
The commerce of this city is； at present； not very considerable； yet it has the face of business。 The streets are crowded with people； the shops are well furnished； and the markets abound with all sorts of excellent provision。 The wine made in this neighbourhood is； however； very indifferent； and all that is consumed must be bought at the public cantine； where it is sold for the benefit of the state。 Their bread is the whitest and the best I have tasted any where； and the beef； which they have from Piedmont； is juicy and delicious。 The expence of eating in Italy is nearly the same as in France； about three shillings a head for every meal。 The state of Genoa is very poor； and their bank of St。 George has received such rude shocks； first from the revolt of the Corsicans； and afterwards from the misfortunes of the city； when it was taken by the Austrians in the war of 1745； that it still continues to languish without any near prospect of its credit being restored。 Nothing shews the weakness of their state； more than their having recourse to the assistance of France to put a stop to the progress of Paoli in Corsica； for after all that has been said of the gallantry and courage of Paoli and his islanders； I am very credibly informed that they might be very easily suppressed； if the Genoese had either vigour in the council or resolution in the field。
True it is； they made a noble effort in expelling the Austrians who had taken possession of their city； but this effort was the effect of oppression and despair； and if I may believe the insinuations of some politicians in this part of the world； the Genoese would not have succeeded in that attempt； if they had not previously purchased with a large sum of money the connivance of the only person who could defeat the enterprize。 For my own part； I can scarce entertain thoughts so prejudicial to the character of human nature； as to suppose a man capable of sacrificing to such a consideration； the duty he owed his prince； as well as all regard to the lives of his soldiers； even those who lay sick in hospitals； and who； being dragged forth； were miserably butchered by the furious populace。 There is one more presumption of his innocence； he still retains the favour of his sovereign； who could not well be supposed to share in th