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They enjoyed particular privileges； till the year 1753； when in consequence of a new gabelle upon salt； they revolted： but this effort in behalf of liberty did not succeed。 They were soon reduced by the Genoese； who deprived them of all their privileges； and built a fort by the sea…side； which serves the double purpose of defending the harbour and over…awing the town。 The garrison at present does not exceed two hundred men。 The inhabitants are said to have lately sent a deputation to Ratisbon； to crave the protection of the diet of the empire。 There is very little plain ground in this neighbourhood； but the hills are covered with oranges； lemons； pomegranates； and olives； which produce a considerable traffic in fine fruit and excellent oil。 The women of St。 Remo are much more handsome and better tempered than those of Provence。 They have in general good eyes； with open ingenuous countenances。 Their dress； though remarkable； I cannot describe： but upon the whole； they put me in mind of some portraits I have seen； representing the females of Georgia and Mingrelia。
On the third day； the wind being abated； though still unfavourable； we reimbarked and rowed along shore； passing by Porto…mauricio； and Oneglia； then turning the promontory called Capo di Melle； we proceeded by Albenga； Finale； and many other places of inferior note。 Portomauricio is seated on a rock washed by the sea； but indifferently fortified； with an inconsiderable harbour； which none but very small vessels can enter。 About two miles to the eastward is Oneglia； a small town with fortifications； lying along the open beach； and belonging to the king of Sardinia。 This small territory abounds with olive…trees； which produce a considerable quantity of oil； counted the best of the whole Riviera。 Albenga is a small town； the see of a bishop； suffragan to the archbishop of Genoa。 It lies upon the sea； and the country produces a great quantity of hemp。 Finale is the capital of a marquisate belonging to the Genoese； which has been the source of much trouble to the republic； and indeed was the sole cause of their rupture with the king of Sardinia and the house of Austria in the year 1745。 The town is pretty well built； but the harbour is shallow； open； and unsafe； nevertheless； they built a good number of tartans and other vessels on the beach and the neighbouring country abounds with oil and fruit； particularly with those excellent apples called pomi carli； which I have mentioned in a former letter。
In the evening we reached the Capo di Noli； counted very dangerous in blowing weather。 It is a very high perpendicular rock or mountain washed by the sea； which has eaten into it in divers places； so as to form a great number of caverns。 It extends about a couple of miles； and in some parts is indented into little creeks or bays； where there is a narrow margin of sandy beach between it and the water。 When the wind is high； no feluca will attempt to pass it； even in a moderate breeze； the waves dashing against the rocks and caverns； which echo with the sound； make such an awful noise； and at the same time occasion such a rough sea； as one cannot hear； and see； and feel； without a secret horror。
On this side of the Cape； there is a beautiful strand cultivated like a garden； the plantations extend to the very tops of the hills； interspersed with villages； castles； churches； and villas。 Indeed the whole Riviera is ornamented in the same manner； except in such places as admit of no building nor cultivation。
Having passed the Cape； we followed the winding of the coast； into a small bay； and arrived at the town of Noli； where we proposed to pass the night。 You will be surprised that we did not go ashore sooner； in order to take some refreshment； but the truth is； we had a provision of ham； tongues； roasted pullets； cheese； bread； wine； and fruit； in the feluca； where we every day enjoyed a slight repast about one or two o'clock in the afternoon。 This I mention as a necessary piece of information to those who may be inclined to follow the same route。 We likewise found it convenient to lay in store of l'eau de vie； or brandy； for the use of the rowers； who always expect to share your comforts。 On a meagre day； however； those ragamuffins will rather die of hunger than suffer the least morsel of flesh…meat to enter their mouths。 I have frequently tried the experiment； by pressing them to eat something gras； on a Friday or Saturday： but they always declined it with marks of abhorrence； crying； Dio me ne libere！ God deliver me from it！ or some other words to that effect。 I moreover observed； that not one of those fellows ever swore an oath； or spoke an indecent word。 They would by no means put to sea； of a morning； before they had heard mass； and when the wind was unfavourable； they always set out with a hymn to the Blessed Virgin； or St。 Elmo； keeping time with their oars as they sung。 I have indeed remarked all over this country； that a man who transgresses the institutions of the church in these small matters； is much more infamous than one who has committed the most flagrant crimes against nature and morality。 A murderer； adulterer； or smte； will obtain easy absolution from the church； and even find favour with society； but a man who eats a pidgeon on a Saturday； without express licence； is avoided and abhorred； as a monster of reprobation。 I have conversed with several intelligent persons on the subject； and have reason to believe； that a delinquent of this sort is considered as a luke…warm catholic； little better than a heretic； and of all crimes they look upon heresy as the most damnable。
Noli is a small republic of fishermen subject to Genoa； but very tenacious of their privileges。 The town stands on the beach； tolerably well built； defended by a castle situated on a rock above it； and the harbour is of little consequence。 The auberge was such as made us regret even the inn we had left at St。 Remo。 After a very odd kind of supper； which I cannot pretend to describe； we retired to our repose： but I had not been in bed five minutes； when I felt something crawling on different parts of my body； and taking a light to examine； perceived above a dozen large bugs。 You must know I have the same kind of antipathy to these vermin； that some persons have to a cat or breast of veal。 I started up immediately； and wrapping myself in a great coat； sick as I was； laid down in the outer room upon a chest； where I continued till morning。
One would imagine that in a mountainous country like this； there should be plenty of goats； and indeed； we saw many flocks of them feeding among the rocks； yet we could not procure half a pint of milk for our tea； if we had given the weight of it in gold。 The people here have no idea of using milk； and when you ask them for it； they stand gaping with a foolish face of surprise； which is exceedingly provoking。 It is amazing that instinct does not teach the peasants to feed their children with goat's milk； so much more nourishing and agreeable than the wretched sustenance on which they live。 Next day we rowed by Vado and Savona； which last is a