按键盘上方向键 ← 或 → 可快速上下翻页，按键盘上的 Enter 键可回到本书目录页，按键盘上方向键 ↑ 可回到本页顶部！
————未阅读完？加入书签已便下次继续阅读！
For my own part； I hired a gondola from hence to Genoa。 This is a boat smaller than a feluca； rowed by four men； and steered by the patron； but the price was nine zequines； rather more than I should have payed for a feluca of ten oars。 I was assured that being very light； it would make great way； and the master was particularly recommended to me； as an honest man and an able mariner。 I was accompanied in this voyage by my wife and Miss C； together with one Mr。 R； a native of Nice； whom I treated with the jaunt； in hopes that as he was acquainted with the customs of the country； and the different ways of travelling in it； he would save us much trouble； and some expence： but I was much disappointed。 Some persons at Nice offered to lay wagers that he would return by himself from Italy； but they were also disappointed。
We embarked in the beginning of September； attended by one servant。 The heats； which render travelling dangerous in Italy； begin to abate at this season。 The weather was extremely agreeable； and if I had postponed my voyage a little longer； I foresaw that I should not be able to return before winter： in which case I might have found the sea too rough； and the weather too cold for a voyage of one hundred and thirty…five miles in an open boat。
Having therefore provided myself with a proper pass； signed and sealed by our consul； as well as with letters of recommendation from him to the English consuls at Genoa and Leghorn； a precaution which I would advise all travellers to take； in case of meeting with accidents on the road； we went on board about ten in the morning； stopped about half an hour at a friend's country…house in the bay of St。 Hospice； and about noon entered the harbour of Monaco； where the patron was obliged to pay toll； according to the regulation which I have explained in a former letter。 This small town； containing about eight or nine hundred souls； besides the garrison； is built on a rock which projects into the sea； and makes a very romantic appearance。 The prince's palace stands in the most conspicuous part； with a walk of trees before it。 The apartments are elegantly furnished； and adorned with some good pictures。 The fortifications are in good repair； and the place is garrisoned by two French battalions。 The present prince of Monaco is a Frenchman； son of the duke Matignon who married the heiress of Monaco； whose name was Grimaldi。 The harbour is well sheltered from the wind； but has not water sufficient to admit vessels of any great burthen。 Towards the north； the king of Sardinia's territories extend to within a mile of the gate； but the prince of Monaco can go upon his own ground along shore about five or six miles to the eastward； as far as Menton； another small town； which also belongs to him； and is situated on the seaside。 His revenues are computed at a million of French livres； amounting to something more than forty thousand pounds sterling： but； the principality of Monaco； consisting of three small towns； and an inconsiderable tract of barren rock； is not worth above seven thousand a year； the rest arises from his French estate。 This consists partly of the dutchy of Matignon； and partly of the dutchy of Valentinois； which last was given to the ancestors of this prince of Monaco； in the year 1640； by the French king； to make up the loss of some lands in the kingdom of Naples； which were confiscated when he expelled the Spanish garrison from Monaco； and threw himself into the arms of France： so that he is duke of Valentinois as well as of Matignon； in that kingdom。 He lives almost constantly in France； and has taken the name and arms of Grimaldi。
The Genoese territories begin at Ventimiglia； another town lying on the coast； at the distance of twenty miles from Nice； a circumstance from which it borrows the name。 Having passed the towns of Monaco； Menton； Ventimiglia； and several other places of less consequence that lie along this coast； we turned the point of St。 Martin with a favourable breeze； and might have proceeded twenty miles further before night： but the women began to be sick； as well as afraid at the roughness of the water； Mr。 R was so discomposed； that he privately desired the patron to put ashore at St。 Remo； on pretence that we should not find a tolerable auberge in any other place between this and Noli； which was at the distance of forty miles。 We accordingly landed； and were conducted to the poste； which our gondeliere assured us was the best auberge in the whole Riviera of Genoa。 We ascended by a dark； narrow； steep stair； into a kind of public room； with a long table and benches； so dirty and miserable； that it would disgrace the worst hedge ale…house in England。 Not a soul appeared to receive us。 This is a ceremony one must not expect to meet with in France； far less in Italy。 Our patron going into the kitchen； asked a servant if the company could have lodging in the house； and was answered； 〃he could not tell： the patron was not at home。〃 When he desired to know where the patron was； the other answered； 〃he was gone to take the air。〃 E andato a passeggiare。 In the mean time； we were obliged to sit in the common room among watermen and muleteers。 At length the landlord arrived； and gave us to understand； that he could accommodate us with chambers。 In that where I lay； there was just room for two beds； without curtains or bedstead； an old rotten table covered with dried figs； and a couple of crazy chairs。 The walls had been once white…washed： but were now hung with cobwebs； and speckled with dirt of all sorts； and I believe the brick…floor had not been swept for half a century。 We supped in an outward room suitable in all respects to the chamber； and fared villainously。 The provision was very ill…dressed； and served up in the most slovenly manner。 You must not expect cleanliness or conveniency of any kind in this country。 For this accommodation I payed as much as if I had been elegantly entertained in the best auberge of France or Italy。
Next day； the wind was so high that we could not prosecute our voyage； so that we were obliged to pass other four and twenty hours in this comfortable situation。 Luckily Mr。 R found two acquaintances in the place； one a Franciscan monk； a jolly fellow； and the other a maestro di capella； who sent a spinnet to the inn； and entertained us agreeably with his voice and performance； in both of which accomplishments he excelled。 The padre was very good humoured； and favoured us with a letter of recommendation to a friend of his； a professor in the university of Pisa。 You would laugh to see the hyperbolical terms in which he mentioned your humble servant； but Italy is the native country of hyperbole。
St。 Remo is a pretty considerable town； well…built upon the declivity of a gently rising hill； and has a harbour capable of receiving small vessels； a good number of which are built upon the beach： but ships of any burden are obliged to anchor in the bay； which is far from being secure。 The people of St。 Remo form a small republic； which is subject to Genoa。
They enjoyed particular privileges； till the year 1753； when in co