按键盘上方向键 ← 或 → 可快速上下翻页，按键盘上的 Enter 键可回到本书目录页，按键盘上方向键 ↑ 可回到本页顶部！
————未阅读完？加入书签已便下次继续阅读！
from my correspondents in Britain； that you had all despaired of my recovery。 You advised me to make a pilgrimage among the Alps； and the advice was good。 In scrambling among those mountains； I should have benefited by the exercise； and at the same time have breathed a cool； pure； salubrious air； which； in all probability； would have expelled the slow fever arising in a great measure from the heat of this climate。 But； I wanted a companion and fellow traveller； whose conversation and society could alleviate the horrors of solitude。 Besides； I was not strong enough to encounter the want of conveniences； and even of necessaries to which I must have been exposed in the course of such an expedition。 My worthy friend Dr。 A earnestly intreated me to try the effect of a sea…voyage； which you know has been found of wonderful efficacy in consumptive cases。 After some deliberation； I resolved upon the scheme； which I have now happily executed。 I had a most eager curiosity to see the antiquities of Florence and Rome： I longed impatiently to view those wonderful edifices； statues； and pictures； which I had so often admired in prints and descriptions。 I felt an enthusiastic ardor to tread that very classical ground which had been the scene of so many great atchievements； and I could not bear the thought of returning to England from the very skirts of Italy； without having penetrated to the capital of that renowned country。 With regard to my health； I knew I could manage matters so as to enjoy all the benefits that could be expected from the united energy of a voyage by sea； a journey by land； and a change of climate。
Rome is betwixt four and five hundred miles distant from Nice； and one half of the way I was resolved to travel by water。 Indeed there is no other way of going from hence to Genoa； unless you take a mule； and clamber along the mountains at the rate of two miles an hour； and at the risque of breaking your neck every minute。 The Apennine mountains； which are no other than a continuation of the maritime Alps； form an almost continued precipice from Villefranche to Lerici； which is almost forty…five miles on the other side of Genoa； and as they are generally washed by the sea； there is no beach or shore； consequently the road is carried along the face of the rocks； except at certain small intervals； which are occupied by towns and villages。 But； as there is a road for mules and foot passengers； it might certainly be enlarged and improved so as to render it practicable by chaises and other wheel…carriages； and a toll might be exacted； which in a little time would defray the expence： for certainly no person who travels to Italy； from England； Holland； France； or Spain； would make a troublesome circuit to pass the Alps by the way of Savoy and Piedmont； if he could have the convenience of going post by the way of Aix； Antibes； and Nice； along the side of the Mediterranean； and through the Riviera of Genoa； which from the sea affords the most agreeable and amazing prospect I ever beheld。 What pity it is； they cannot restore the celebrated Via Aurelia； mentioned in the Itinerarium of Antoninus； which extended from Rome by the way of Genoa； and through this country as far as Arles upon the Rhone。 It was said to have been made by the emperor Marcus Aurelius； and some of the vestiges of it are still to be seen in Provence。 The truth is； the nobility of Genoa； who are all merchants； from a low； selfish； and absurd policy； take all methods to keep their subjects of the Riviera in poverty and dependence。 With this view； they carefully avoid all steps towards rendering that country accessible by land； and at the same time discourage their trade by sea； lest it should interfere with the commerce of their capital； in which they themselves are personally concerned。
Those who either will not or cannot bear the sea； and are equally averse to riding； may be carried in a common chair； provided with a foot…board； on men's shoulders： this is the way of travelling practised by the ladies of Nice； in crossing the mountains to Turin； but it is very tedious and expensive； as the men must be often relieved。
The most agreeable carriage from here to Genoa； is a feluca； or open boat； rowed by ten or twelve stout mariners。 Though none of these boats belong to Nice； they are to be found every day in our harbour； waiting for a fare to Genoa； and they are seen passing and repassing continually； with merchandize or passengers； between Marseilles； Antibes； and the Genoese territories。 A feluca is large enough to take in a post…chaise； and there is a tilt over the stern sheets； where the passengers sit； to protect them from the rain： between the seats one person may lie commodiously upon a mattress； which is commonly supplied by the patron。 A man in good health may put up with any thing； but I would advise every valetudinarian who travels this way； to provide his own chaise； mattrass； and bedlinnen； otherwise he will pass his time very uncomfortably。 If you go as a simple passenger in a feluca； you pay about a loui'dore for your place； and you must be intirely under the direction of the patron； who； while he can bear the sea； will prosecute his voyage by night as well as by day； and expose you to many other inconveniencies： but for eight zequines； or four loui'dores； you can have a whole feluca to yourself； from Nice to Genoa； and the master shall be obliged to put a…shore every evening。 If you would have it still more at your command； you may hire it at so much per day； and in that case； go on shore as often； and stay as long as you please。 This is the method I should take； were I to make the voyage again； for I am persuaded I should find it very near as cheap； and much more agreeable than any other。
The distance between this place and Genoa； when measured on the carte； does not exceed ninety miles： but the people of the felucas insist upon its being one hundred and twenty。 If they creep along shore round the bottoms of all the bays； this computation may be true： but； except when the sea is rough； they stretch directly from one head…land to another； and even when the wind is contrary； provided the gale is not fresh； they perform the voyage in two days and a half； by dint of rowing： when the wind is favourable； they will sail it easily in fourteen hours。
A man who has nothing but expedition in view； may go with the courier； who has always a light boat well manned； and will be glad to accommodate a traveller for a reasonable gratification。 I know an English gentleman who always travels with the courier in Italy； both by sea and land。 In posting by land； he is always sure of having part of a good calash； and the best horses that can be found； and as the expence of both is defrayed by the public； it costs him nothing but a present to his companion； which does not amount to one fourth part of the expence he would incur by travelling alone。 These opportunities may be had every week in all the towns of Italy。
For my own part； I hired a gondola from hence to Genoa。 This is a boat smaller than a feluca； rowed by four men； and steered by the patron； but