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to medicine； I know nothing of the practice of the Nice physicians。 Here are eleven in all； but four or five make shift to live by the profession。 They receive； by way of fee； ten sols （an English six…pence） a visit； and this is but ill paid： so you may guess whether they are in a condition to support the dignity of physic； and whether any man； of a liberal education； would bury himself at Nice on such terms。 I am acquainted with an Italian physician settled at Villa Franca； a very good sort of a man； who practises for a certain salary； raised by annual contribution among the better sort of people； and an allowance from the king； for visiting the sick belonging to the garrison and the gallies。 The whole may amount to near thirty pounds。
Among the inconveniences of this climate； the vermin form no inconsiderable article。 Vipers and snakes are found in the mountains。 Our gardens swarm with lizzards； and there are some few scorpions； but as yet I have seen but one of this species。 In summer； notwithstanding all the care and precautions we can take； we are pestered with incredible swarms of flies； fleas； and bugs； but the gnats； or couzins； are more intolerable than all the rest。 In the day…time； it is impossible to keep the flies out of your mouth； nostrils； eyes； and ears。 They croud into your milk； tea； chocolate； soup； wine； and water： they soil your sugar； contaminate your victuals； and devour your fruit； they cover and defile your furniture； floors； cielings； and indeed your whole body。 As soon as candles are lighted； the couzins begin to buz about your ears in myriads； and torment you with their stings； so that you have no rest nor respite 'till you get into bed； where you are secured by your mosquito…net。 This inclosure is very disagreeable in hot weather； and very inconvenient to those； who； like me； are subject to a cough and spitting。 It is moreover ineffectual； for some of those cursed insects insinuate themselves within it； almost every night； and half a dozen of them are sufficient to disturb you 'till morning。 This is a plague that continues all the year； but in summer it is intolerable。 During this season； likewise； the moths are so mischievous； that it requires the utmost care to preserve woollen cloths from being destroyed。 From the month of May； 'till the beginning of October； the heat is so violent； that you cannot stir abroad after six in the morning 'till eight at night； so that you are entirely deprived of the benefit of exercise： There is no shaded walk in； or near the town； and there is neither coach nor chaise to hire； unless you travel post。 Indeed； there is no road fit for any wheel carriage； but the common highway to the Var； in which you are scorched by the reflexion of the sun from the sand and stones； and at the same time half stifled with dust。 If you ride out in the cool of the evening； you will have the disadvantage of returning in the dark。
Among the demerits of Nice； I must also mention the water which is used in the city。 It is drawn from wells； and for the most part so hard； that it curdles with soap。 There are many fountains and streams in the neighbourhood； that afford excellent water； which； at no great charge； might be conveyed into the town； so as to form conduits in all the public streets： but the inhabitants are either destitute of public spirit； or cannot afford the expense。 ＇General Paterson delivered a Plan to the King of Sardinia for supplying Nice with excellent water for so small an expence as one livre a house per annum； but the inhabitants remonstrated against it as an intolerable Imposition。＇ I have a draw…well in my porch； and another in my garden； which supply tolerable water for culinary uses； but what we drink； is fetched from a well belonging to a convent of Dominicans in this neighbourhood。 Our linnen is washed in the river Paglion； and when that is dry； in the brook called Limpia； which runs into the harbour。
In mentioning the water of this neighbourhood； I ought not to omit the baths of Rocabiliare； a small town among the mountains； about five and twenty miles from Nice。 There are three sources； each warmer than the other； the warmest being nearly equal to the heat of the king's bath at Bath in Somersetshire； as far as I can judge from information。 I have perused a Latin manuscript； which treats of these baths at Rocabiliare； written by the duke of Savoy's first physician about sixty years ago。 He talks much of the sulphur and the nitre which they contain； but I apprehend their efficacy is owing to the same volatile vitriolic principle； which characterises the waters at Bath。 They are attenuating and deobstruent； consequently of service in disorders arising from a languid circulation； a viscidity of the juices； a lax fibre； and obstructed viscera。 The road from hence to Rocabiliare is in some parts very dangerous； lying along the brink of precipices； impassable to any other carriage but a mule。 The town itself affords bad lodging and accommodation； and little or no society。 The waters are at the distance of a mile and a half from the town： there are no baths nor shelter； nor any sort of convenience for those that drink them； and the best part of their efficacy is lost； unless they are drank at the fountain…head。 If these objections were in some measure removed； I would advise valetudinarians； who come hither for the benefit of this climate； to pass the heats of summer at Rocabiliare； which being situated among mountains； enjoys a cool temperate air all the summer。 This would be a salutary respite from the salt air of Nice； to those who labour under scorbutical complaints； and they would return with fresh vigour and spirits； to pass the winter in this place； where no severity of weather is known。 Last June； when I found myself so ill at my cassine； I had determined to go to Rocabiliare； and even to erect a hut at the spring； for my own convenience。 A gentleman of Nice undertook to procure me a tolerable lodging in the house of the cure； who was his relation。 He assured me； there was no want of fresh butter； good poultry； excellent veal； and delicate trout； and that the articles of living might be had at Rocabiliare for half the price we paid at Nice： but finding myself grow better immediately on my return from the cassine to my own house； I would not put myself to the trouble and expence of a further removal。
I think I have now communicated all the particulars relating to Nice； that are worth knowing； and perhaps many more than you desired to know： but； in such cases； I would rather be thought prolix and unentertaining； than deficient in that regard and attention with which I am very sincerely；Your friend and servant。
LETTER XXV
NICE； January 1； 1765。
DEAR SIR；It was in deference to your opinion； reinforced by my own inclination； and the repeated advice of other friends； that I resolved upon my late excursion to Italy。 I could plainly perceive from the anxious solicitude； and pressing exhortations contained in all the letters I had lately received from my correspondents in Britain； that you had all despaired of my recovery。 You advised me to ma