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ehended by the patrole； and； if he cannot give a good account of himself； sent to prison。 At nine in winter； and ten in summer； there is a curfew…bell rung； warning the people to put out their lights； and go to bed。 This is a very necessary precaution in towns subject to conflagrations； but of small use in Nice； where there is very little combustible in the houses。
The punishments inflicted upon malefactors and delinquents at Nice are hanging for capital crimes； slavery on board the gallies for a limited term； or for life； according to the nature of the transgression； flagellation； and the strappado。 This last is performed； by hoisting up the criminal by his hands tied behind his back； on a pulley about two stories high； from whence； the rope being suddenly slackened； he falls to within a yard or two of the ground； where he is stopped with a violent shock arising from the weight of his body； and the velocity of his descent； which generally dislocates his shoulders； with incredible pain。 This dreadful execution is sometimes repeated in a few minutes on the same delinquent； so that the very ligaments are tore from his joints； and his arms are rendered useless for life。
The poverty of the people in this country； as well as in the South of France； may be conjectured from the appearance of their domestic animals。 The draughthorses； mules； and asses； of the peasants； are so meagre； as to excite compassion。 There is not a dog to be seen in tolerable case； and the cats are so many emblems of famine； frightfully thin； and dangerously rapacious。 I wonder the dogs and they do not devour young children。 Another proof of that indigence which reigns among the common people； is this： you may pass through the whole South of France； as well as the county of Nice； where there is no want of groves； woods； and plantations； without hearing the song of blackbird； thrush； linnet； gold…finch； or any other bird whatsoever。 All is silent and solitary。 The poor birds are destroyed； or driven for refuge； into other countries； by the savage persecution of the people； who spare no pains to kill； and catch them for their own subsistence。 Scarce a sparrow； red…breast； tomtit； or wren； can 'scape the guns and snares of those indefatigable fowlers。 Even the noblesse make parties to go a la chasse； a…hunting； that is； to kill those little birds； which they eat as gibier； or game。
The great poverty of the people here； is owing to their religion。 Half of their time is lost in observing the great number of festivals； and half of their substance is given to mendicant friars and parish priests。 But if the church occasions their indigence； it likewise； in some measure； alleviates the horrors of it； by amusing them with shows； processions； and even those very feasts； which afford a recess from labour； in a country where the climate disposes them to idleness。 If the peasants in the neighbourhood of any chapel dedicated to a saint； whose day is to be celebrated； have a mind to make a festin； in other words； a fair； they apply to the commandant of Nice for a license； which costs them about a French crown。 This being obtained； they assemble after service； men and women； in their best apparel； and dance to the musick of fiddles； and pipe and tabor； or rather pipe and drum。 There are hucksters' stands； with pedlary ware and knick…knacks for presents； cakes and bread； liqueurs and wine； and thither generally resort all the company of Nice。 I have seen our whole noblesse at one of these festins； kept on the highway in summer； mingled with an immense crowd of peasants； mules； and asses； covered with dust； and sweating at every pore with the excessive heat of the weather。 I should be much puzzled to tell whence their enjoyment arises on such occasions； or to explain their motives for going thither； unless they are prescribed it for pennance； as a fore…taste of purgatory。
Now I am speaking of religious institutions； I cannot help observing； that the antient Romans were still more superstitious than the modern Italians； and that the number of their religious feasts； sacrifices； fasts； and holidays； was even greater than those of the Christian church of Rome。 They had their festi and profesti； their feriae stativae； and conceptivae； their fixed and moveable feasts； their esuriales； or fasting days； and their precidaneae； or vigils。 The agonales were celebrated in January； the carmentales； in January and February； the lupercales and matronales； in March； the megalesia in April； the floralia； in May； and the matralia in June。 They had their saturnalia； robigalia； venalia； vertumnalia； fornacalia； palilia； and laralia； their latinae； their paganales； their sementinae； their compitales； and their imperativae； such as the novemdalia； instituted by the senate； on account of a supposed shower of stones。 Besides； every private family had a number of feriae； kept either by way of rejoicing for some benefit； or mourning for some calamity。 Every time it thundered； the day was kept holy。 Every ninth day was a holiday； thence called nundinae quasi novendinae。 There was the dies denominalis； which was the fourth of the kalends； nones and ides of every month； over and above the anniversary of every great defeat which the republic had sustained； particularly the dies alliensis； or fifteenth of the kalends of December； on which the Romans were totally defeated by the Gauls and Veientes； as Lucan sayset damnata diu Romanis allia fastis； and Allia in Rome's Calendar condemn'd。 The vast variety of their deities； said to amount to thirty thousand； with their respective rites of adoration； could not fail to introduce such a number of ceremonies； shews； sacrifices； lustrations； and public processions； as must have employed the people almost constantly from one end of the year to the other。 This continual dissipation must have been a great enemy to industry； and the people must have been idle and effeminate。 I think it would be no difficult matter to prove； that there is very little difference； in point of character； between the antient and modern inhabitants of Rome； and that the great figure which this empire made of old； was not so much owing to the intrinsic virtue of its citizens； as to the barbarism； ignorance； and imbecility of the nations they subdued。 Instances of public and private virtue I find as frequent and as striking in the history of other nations； as in the annals of antient Rome； and now that the kingdoms and states of Europe are pretty equally enlightened； and ballanced in the scale of political power； I am of opinion； that if the most fortunate generals of the Roman commonwealth were again placed at the head of the very armies they once commanded； instead of extending their conquests over all Europe and Asia； they would hardly be able to subdue； and retain under their dominion； all the petty republics that subsist in Italy。
But I am tired with writing； and I believe you will be tired with reading this long letter notwithstanding all your prepossession in favour ofYour very humble servant。
LETTER XXI
NICE； November 10； 1764。
DEAR DOCTOR；In my enquiries about