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nglish manner。 The roasts of this country seldom exceed two or three pounds of meat； and their other plats are made over stove holes。 But it is now high time to conduct you from the kitchen； where you have been too long detained byYour humble servant。
P。S。I have mentioned the prices of almost all the articles in house…keeping； as they are paid by the English： but exclusive of butcher's meat； I am certain the natives do not pay so much by thirty per cent。 Their imposition on us； is not only a proof of their own villany and hatred； but a scandal on their government； which ought to interfere in favour of the subjects of a nation； to which they are so much bound in point of policy； as well as gratitude。
LETTER XX
NICE； October 22； 1764。
SIR；As I have nothing else to do； but to satisfy my own curiosity； and that of my friends； I obey your injunctions with pleasure； though not without some apprehension that my inquiries will afford you very little entertainment。 The place where I am is of very little importance or consequence as a state or community； neither is there any thing curious or interesting in the character or oeconomy of its inhabitants。
There are some few merchants in Nice； said to be in good circumstances。 I know one of them； who deals to a considerable extent； and goes twice a year to London to attend the sales of the East…India company。 He buys up a very large quantity of muslins； and other Indian goods； and freights a ship in the river to transport them to Villa Franca。 Some of these are sent to Swisserland； but； I believe； the greater part is smuggled into France； by virtue of counterfeit stamps； which are here used without any ceremony。 Indeed； the chief commerce of this place is a contraband traffick carried on to the disadvantage of France； and I am told； that the farmers of the Levant company in that kingdom find their account in conniving at it。 Certain it is； a great quantity of merchandize is brought hither every week by mules from Turin and other parts in Piedmont； and afterwards conveyed to the other side of the Var； either by land or water。 The mules of Piedmont are exceeding strong and hardy。 One of them will carry a burthen of near six hundred weight。 They are easily nourished； and require no other respite from their labour； but the night's repose。 They are the only carriage that can be used in crossing the mountains； being very sure…footed： and it is observed that in choosing their steps； they always march upon the brink of the precipice。 You must let them take their own way； otherwise you will be in danger of losing your life； for they are obstinate； even to desperation。 It is very dangerous for a person on horseback to meet those animals： they have such an aversion to horses； that they will attack them with incredible fury； so as even to tear them and their riders in pieces； and the best method for avoiding this fate； is to clap spurs to your beast； and seek your safety in flight。 I have been more than once obliged to fly before them。 They always give you warning； by raising a hideous braying as soon as they perceive the horse at a distance。 The mules of Provence are not so mischievous； because they are more used to the sight and society of horses： but those of Piedmont are by far the largest and the strongest I have seen。
Some very feasible schemes for improving the commerce of Nice have been presented to the ministry of Turin； but hitherto without success。 The English import annually between two and three thousand bales of raw silk； the growth of Piedmont； and this declaration would be held legal evidence。 In some parts of France； the cure of the parish； on All Souls' day； which is called le jour des morts； says a libera domine for two sols； at every grave in the burying…ground； for the release of the soul whose body is there interred。
The artisans of Nice are very lazy； very needy； very aukward； and void of all ingenuity。 The price of their labour is very near as high as at London or Paris。 Rather than work for moderate profit； arising from constant employment； which would comfortably maintain them and their families； they choose to starve at home； to lounge about the ramparts； bask themselves in the sun； or play at bowls in the streets from morning 'till night。
The lowest class of people consists of fishermen； day labourers； porters； and peasants： these last are distributed chiefly in the small cassines in the neighbourhood of the city； and are said to amount to twelve thousand。 They are employed in labouring the ground； and have all the outward signs of extreme misery。 They are all diminutive； meagre； withered； dirty； and half naked； in their complexions； not barely swarthy； but as black as Moors； and I believe many of them are descendants of that people。 They are very hard favoured； and their women in general have the coarsest features I have ever seen： it must be owned； however； they have the finest teeth in the world。 The nourishment of those poor creatures consists of the refuse of the garden； very coarse bread； a kind of meal called polenta； made of Indian corn； which is very nourishing and agreeable； and a little oil； but even in these particulars； they seem to be stinted to very scanty meals。 I have known a peasant feed his family with the skins of boiled beans。 Their hogs are much better fed than their children。 'Tis pity they have no cows； which would yield milk； butter； and cheese； for the sustenance of their families。 With all this wretchedness； one of these peasants will not work in your garden for less than eighteen sols； about eleven pence sterling； per diem； and then he does not half the work of an English labourer。 If there is fruit in it； or any thing he can convey； he will infallibly steal it； if you do not keep a very watchful eye over him。 All the common people are thieves and beggars； and I believe this is always the case with people who are extremely indigent and miserable。 In other respects； they are seldom guilty of excesses。 They are remarkably respectful and submissive to their superiors。 The populace of Nice are very quiet and orderly。 They are little addicted to drunkenness。 I have never heard of one riot since I lived among them； and murder and robbery are altogether unknown。 A man may walk alone over the county of Nice； at midnight； without danger of insult。 The police is very well regulated。 No man is permitted to wear a pistol or dagger' on pain of being sent to the gallies。 I am informed； that both murder and robbery are very frequent in some parts of Piedmont。 Even here； when the peasants quarrel in their cups； （which very seldom happens） they draw their knives； and the one infallibly stabs the other。 To such extremities； however； they never proceed； except when there is a woman in the case； and mutual jealousy co…operates with the liquor they have drank； to inflame their passions。 In Nice； the common people retire to their lodgings at eight o'clock in winter； and nine in summer。 Every person found in the streets after these hours； is apprehended by the patrole； and； if he cannot give a good account of himself； sent to prison。 At nine