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travels through france and italy-第64章

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r; I have marked the seasons of the principal fruits in  this country。 In May we have strawberries; which continue in  season two or three months。 These are of the wood kind; very  grateful; and of a good flavour; but the scarlets and hautboys  are not known at Nice。 In the beginning of June; and even sooner;  the cherries begin to be ripe。 They are a kind of bleeding  hearts; large; fleshy; and high flavoured; though rather too  luscious。 I have likewise seen a few of those we call Kentish  cherries which are much more cool; acid; and agreeable;  especially in this hot climate。 The cherries are succeeded by the  apricots and peaches; which are all standards; and of consequence  better flavoured than what we call wall…fruit。 The trees; as well  as almonds; grow and bear without care and cultivation; and may  be seen in the open fields about Nice。 but without proper  culture; the fruit degenerates。 The best peaches I have seen at  Nice are the amberges; of a yellow hue; and oblong shape; about  the size of a small lemon。 Their consistence is much more solid  than that of our English peaches; and their taste more delicious。  Several trees of this kind I have in my own garden。 Here is  likewise plenty of other sorts; but no nectarines。 We have little  choice of plumbs。 Neither do I admire the pears or apples of this  country: but the most agreeable apples I ever tasted; come from  Final; and are called pomi carli。 The greatest fault I find with  most fruits in this climate; is; that they are too sweet and  luscious; and want that agreeable acid which is so cooling and so  grateful in a hot country。 This; too; is the case with our  grapes; of which there is great plenty and variety; plump and  juicy; and large as plumbs。 Nature; however; has not neglected to  provide other agreeable vegetable juices to cool the human body。  During the whole summer; we have plenty of musk melons。 I can buy  one as large as my head for the value of an English penny: but  one of the best and largest; weighing ten or twelve pounds; I can  have for twelve sols; or about eight…pence sterling。 From Antibes  and Sardinia; we have another fruit called a watermelon; which is  well known in Jamaica; and some of our other colonies。 Those from  Antibes are about the size of an ordinary bomb…shell: but the  Sardinian and Jamaica watermelons are four times as large。 The  skin is green; smooth; and thin。 The inside is a purple pulp;  studded with broad; flat; black seeds; and impregnated with a  juice the most cool; delicate; and refreshing; that can well be  conceived。 One would imagine the pulp itself dissolved in the  stomach; for you may eat of it until you are filled up to the tongue; without feeling the least inconvenience。 It is so  friendly to the constitution; that in ardent inflammatory fevers;  it is drank as the best emulsion。 At Genoa; Florence; and Rome;  it is sold in the streets; ready cut in slices; and the porters;  sweating under their burthens; buy; and eat them as they pass。 A  porter of London quenches his thirst with a draught of strong  beer: a porter of Rome; or Naples; refreshes himself with a slice  of water…melon; or a glass of iced…water。 The one costs three  half…pence; the last; half a farthingwhich of them is most  effectual? I am sure the men are equally pleased。 It is commonly  remarked; that beer strengthens as well as refreshes。 But the  porters of Constantinople; who never drink any thing stronger  than water; and eat very little animal food; will lift and carry  heavier burthens than any other porters in the known world。 If we  may believe the most respectable travellers; a Turk will carry a  load of seven hundred weight; which is more (I believe) than any  English porter ever attempted to carry any length of way。

Among the refreshments of these warm countries; I ought not to  forget mentioning the sorbettes; which are sold in coffee…houses;  and places of public resort。 They are iced froth; made with juice  of oranges; apricots; or peaches; very agreeable to the palate;  and so extremely cold; that I was afraid to swallow them in this  hot country; until I found from information and experience; that  they may be taken in moderation; without any bad consequence。

Another considerable article in house…keeping is wine; which we  have here good and reasonable。 The wine of Tavelle in Languedoc  is very near as good as Burgundy; and may be had at Nice; at the  rate of six…pence a bottle。 The sweet wine of St。 Laurent;  counted equal to that of Frontignan; costs about eight or nine…pence  a quart: pretty good Malaga may be had for half the money。  Those who make their own wine choose the grapes from different  vineyards; and have them picked; pressed; and fermented at home。

That which is made by the peasants; both red and white; is  generally genuine: but the wine…merchants of Nice brew and  balderdash; and even mix it with pigeons dung and quick…lime。 It  cannot be supposed; that a stranger and sojourner should buy his  own grapes; and make his own provision of wine: but he may buy it  by recommendation from the peasants; for about eighteen or twenty  livres the charge; consisting of eleven rup five pounds; in other  words; of two hundred and eighty pounds of this country; so as to  bring it for something less than three…pence a quart。 The Nice  wine; when mixed with water; makes an agreeable beverage。 There  is an inferior sort for servants drank by the common people;  which in the cabaret does not cost above a penny a bottle。 The  people here are not so nice as the English; in the management of  their wine。 It is kept in flacons; or large flasks; without  corks; having a little oil at top。 It is not deemed the worse for  having been opened a day or two before; and they expose it to the  hot sun; and all kinds of weather; without hesitation。 Certain it  is; this treatment has little or no effect upon its taste;  flavour; and transparency。

The brandy of Nice is very indifferent: and the liqueurs are so  sweetened with coarse sugar; that they scarce retain the taste or  flavour of any other ingredient。

The last article of domestic oeconomy which I shall mention is  fuel; or wood for firing; which I buy for eleven sols (a little  more than six…pence halfpenny) a quintal; consisting of one  hundred and fifty pound Nice weight。 The best; which is of oak;  comes from Sardinia。 The common sort is olive; which being cut  with the sap in it; ought to be laid in during the summer;  otherwise; it will make a very uncomfortable fire。 In my kitchen  and two chambers; I burned fifteen thousand weight of wood in  four weeks; exclusive of charcoal for the kitchen stoves; and of  pine…tops for lighting the fires。 These last are as large as  pineapples; which they greatly resemble in shape; and to which;  indeed; they give their name; and being full of turpentine; make  a wonderful blaze。 For the same purpose; the people of these  countries use the sarments; or cuttings of the vines; which they  sell made up in small fascines。 This great consumption of wood is  owing to the large fires used in roasting pieces of beef; and  joints; in the English manner。 The roasts of this country seldom  exceed two or three pounds of meat; and their othe
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