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young fellow； a lieutenant in the Swiss regiment； which is here in garrison。 He is a Protestant； extremely fond of our nation； and understands our language tolerably well。 He was particularly recommended to our acquaintance by general P and his lady； we are happy in his conversation； find him wonderfully obliging； and extremely serviceable on many occasions。 We have likewise made acquaintance with some other individuals； particularly with Mr。 St。 Pierre； junior； who is a considerable merchant； and consul for Naples。 He is a well…bred； sensible young man； speaks English； is an excellent performer on the lute and mandolin； and has a pretty collection of books。 In a word； I hope we shall pass the winter agreeably enough； especially if Mr。 Me should hold out； but I am afraid he is too far gone in a consumption to recover。 He spent the last winter at Nismes； and consulted F at Montpellier。 I was impatient to see the prescription； and found it almost verbatim the same he had sent to me； although I am persuaded there is a very essential difference between our disorders。 Mr。 Me has been long afflicted with violent spasms； colliquative sweats； prostration of appetite； and a disorder in his bowels。 He is likewise jaundiced all over； and I am confident his liver is unsound。 He tried the tortoise soup； which he said in a fortnight stuffed him up with phlegm。 This gentleman has got a smattering of physic； and I am afraid tampers with his own constitution； by means of Brookes's Practice of Physic； and some dispensatories； which he is continually poring over。 I beg pardon for this tedious epistle； and amVery sincerely； dear Sir； Your affectionate； humble servant。
LETTER XIII
NICE； January 15； 1764。
DEAR SIR；I am at last settled at Nice； and have leisure to give you some account of this very remarkable place。 The county of Nice extends about fourscore miles in length； and in some places it is thirty miles broad。 It contains several small towns； and a great number of villages； all of which； this capital excepted； are situated among mountains； the most extensive plain of the whole country being this where I now am； in the neighbourhood of Nice。 The length of it does not exceed two miles； nor is the breadth of it； in any part； above one。 It is bounded by the Mediterranean on the south。 From the sea…shore； the maritime Alps begin with hills of a gentle ascent； rising into mountains that form a sweep or amphitheatre ending at Montalban； which overhangs the town of Villa Franca。 On the west side of this mountain； and in the eastern extremity of the amphitheatre； stands the city of Nice； wedged in between a steep rock and the little river Paglion； which descends from the mountains； and washing the town…walls on the west side； falls into the sea； after having filled some canals for the use of the inhabitants。 There is a stone…bridge of three arches over it； by which those who come from Provence enter the city。 The channel of it is very broad； but generally dry in many places； the water （as in the Var） dividing itself into several small streams。 The Paglion being fed by melted snow and rain in the mountains； is quite dry in summer； but it is sometimes swelled by sudden rains to a very formidable torrent。 This was the case in the year 1744； when the French and Spanish armies attacked eighteen Piedmontese battalions； which were posted on the side of Montalban。 The assailants were repulsed with the loss of four thousand men； some hundreds of whom perished in repassing the Paglion； which had swelled to a surprising degree during the battle； in consequence of a heavy continued rain。 This rain was of great service to the Piedmontese； as it prevented one half of the enemy from passing the river to sustain the other。 Five hundred were taken prisoners： but the Piedmontese； foreseeing they should be surrounded next day by the French； who had penetrated behind them； by a pass in the mountains； retired in the night。 Being received on board the English Fleet； which lay at Villa Franca； they were conveyed to Oneglia。 In examining the bodies of those that were killed in the battle； the inhabitants of Nice perceived； that a great number of the Spanish soldiers were circumcised； a circumstance； from which they concluded； that a great many Jews engage in the service of his Catholic majesty。 I am of a different opinion。 The Jews are the least of any people that I know； addicted to a military life。 I rather imagine they were of the Moorish race； who have subsisted in Spain； since the expulsion of their brethren； and though they conform externally to the rites of the Catholic religion； still retain in private their attachment to the law of Mahomet。
The city of Nice is built in form of an irregular isosceles triangle； the base of which fronts the sea。 On the west side it is surrounded by a wall and rampart； on the east； it is over…hung by a rock； on which we see the ruins of an old castle； which； before the invention of artillery； was counted impregnable。 It was taken and dismantled by marechal Catinat； in the time of Victor Amadaeus； the father of his Sardinian majesty。 It was afterwards finally demolished by the duke of Berwick towards the latter end of queen Anne's war。 To repair it would be a very unnecessary expence； as it is commanded by Montalban； and several other eminences。
The town of Nice is altogether indefensible； and therefore without fortifications。 There are only two iron guns upon a bastion that fronts the beach； and here the French had formed a considerable battery against the English cruisers； in the war of 1744； when the Mareschal Duke de Belleisle had his headquarters at Nice。 This little town； situated in the bay of Antibes； is almost equidistant from Marseilles； Turin； and Genoa； the first and last being about thirty leagues from hence by sea； and the capital of Piedmont at the same distance to the northward； over the mountains。 It lies exactly opposite to Capo di Ferro； on the coast of Barbary； and； the islands of Sardinia and Corsica are laid down about two degrees to the eastward； almost exactly in a line with Genoa。 This little town； hardly a mile in circumference； is said to contain twelve thousand inhabitants。 The streets are narrow； the houses are built of stone； and the windows in general are fitted with paper instead of glass。 This expedient would not answer in a country subject to rain and storms； but here； where there is very little of either； the paper lozenges answer tolerably well。 The bourgeois； however； begin to have their houses sashed with glass。 Between the town…wall and the sea； the fishermen haul up their boats upon the open beach； but on the other side of the rock； where the castle stood； is the port or harbour of Nice； upon which some money has been expended。 It is a small basin； defended to seaward by a mole of free…stone； which is much better contrived than executed： for the sea has already made three breaches in it； and in all probability； in another winter； the extremity of it will be carried quite away。 It would require the talents of a very skilful architect to lay the foundation of a good mole； on a