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ty of France； where we passed the Var； after our baggage had undergone examination。 From Cannes to this village the road lies along the sea…side； and sure nothing can be more delightful。 Though in the morning there was a frost upon the ground； the sun was as warm as it is in May in England。 The sea was quite smooth； and the beach formed of white polished pebbles； on the left…hand the country was covered with green olives； and the side of the road planted with large trees of sweet myrtle growing wild like the hawthorns in England。 From Antibes we had the first view of Nice； lying on the opposite side of the bay； and making a very agreeable appearance。 The author of the Grand Tour says； that from Antibes to Nice the roads are very bad； through rugged mountains bordered with precipices On the left； and by the sea to the right； whereas； in fact； there is neither precipice nor mountain near it。
The Var； which divides the county of Nice from Provence； is no other than a torrent fed chiefly by the snow that melts on the maritime Alps； from which it takes its origin。 In the summer it is swelled to a dangerous height； and this is also the case after heavy rains： but at present the middle of it is quite dry； and the water divided into two or three narrow streams； which； however； are both deep and rapid。 This river has been absurdly enough by some supposed the Rubicon； in all probability from the description of that river in the Pharsalia of Lucan； who makes it the boundary betwixt Gaul and Italy
et Gallica certus Limes ab Ausoniis disterminat arva colonis。
A sure Frontier that parts the Gallic plains From the rich meadows of th' Ansonian swains。
whereas； in fact； the Rubicon； now called Pisatello； runs between Ravenna and Rimini。But to return to the Var。 At the village of St。 Laurent； famous for its Muscadine wines； there is a set of guides always in attendance to conduct you in your passage over the river。 Six of those fellows； tucked up above the middle； with long poles in their hands； took charge of our coach； and by many windings guided it safe to the opposite shore。 Indeed there was no occasion for any； but it is a sort of a perquisite； and I did not choose to run any risque； how small soever it might be； for the sake of saving half a crown； with which they were satisfied。 If you do not gratify the searchers at St。 Laurent with the same sum； they will rummage your trunks； and turn all your cloaths topsy turvy。 And here； once for all； I would advise every traveller who consults his own case and convenience； to be liberal of his money to all that sort of people； and even to wink at the imposition of aubergistes on the road； unless it be very flagrant。 So sure as you enter into disputes with them； you will be put to a great deal of trouble； and fret yourself to no manner of purpose。 I have travelled with oeconomists in England； who declared they would rather give away a crown than allow themselves to be cheated of a farthing。 This is a good maxim； but requires a great share of resolution and self…denial to put it in practice。 In one excursion of about two hundred miles my fellow…traveller was in a passion； and of consequence very bad company from one end of the journey to the other。 He was incessantly scolding either at landlords； landladies； waiters； hostlers； or postilions。 We had bad horses； and bad chaises； set out from every stage with the curses of the people； and at this expence I saved about ten shillings in the whole journey。 For such a paltry consideration； he was contented to be miserable himself； and to make every other person unhappy with whom he had any concern。 When I came last from Bath it rained so hard； that the postilion who drove the chaise was wet to the skin before we had gone a couple of miles。 When we arrived at the Devises； I gave him two shillings instead of one； out of pure compassion。 The consequence of this liberality was； that in the next stage we seemed rather to fly than to travel upon solid ground。 I continued my bounty to the second driver； and indeed through the whole journey； and found myself accommodated in a very different manner from what I had experienced before。 I had elegant chaises； with excellent horses； and the postilions of their own accord used such diligence； that although the roads were broken by the rain； I travelled at the rate of twelve miles an hour； and my extraordinary expence from Bath to London； amounted precisely to six shillings。
The river Var falls into the Mediterranean a little below St。 Laurent； about four miles to the westward of Nice。 Within the memory of persons now living； there have been three wooden bridges thrown over it； and as often destroyed in consequence of the jealousy subsisting between the kings of France and Sardinia； this river being the boundary of their dominions on the side of Provence。 However； this is a consideration that ought not to interfere with the other advantages that would accrue to both kingdoms from such a convenience。 If there was a bridge over the Var； and a post…road made from Nice to Genoa； I am very confident that all those strangers who now pass the Alps in their way to and from Italy； would choose this road as infinitely more safe； commodious； and agreeable。 This would also be the case with all those who hire felucas from Marseilles or Antibes； and expose themselves to the dangers and inconveniences of travelling by sea in an open boat。
In the afternoon we arrived at Nice； where we found Mr。 Me； the English gentleman whom I had seen at Boulogne； and advised to come hither。 He had followed my advice； and reached Nice about a month before my arrival； with his lady； child； and an old gouvernante。 He had travelled with his own post…chaise and horses； and is now lodged just without one of the gates of the city； in the house of the count de Vn； for which he pays five loui'dores a month。 I could hire one much better in the neighbourhood of London； for the same money。 Unless you will submit to this extortion； and hire a whole house for a length of time； you will find no ready…furnished lodgings at Nice。 After having stewed a week in a paltry inn； I have taken a ground floor for ten months at the rate of four hundred livres a year； that is twenty pounds sterling； for the Piedmontese livre is about an English shilling。 The apartments are large； lofty； and commodious enough； with two small gardens； in which there is plenty of sallad； and a great number of oranges and lemons： but as it required some time to provide furniture； our consul Mr。 Bd； one of the best natured and most friendly men in the world； has lent me his lodgings； which are charmingly situated by the sea…side； and open upon a terrace； that runs parallel to the beach； forming part of the town wall。 Mr。 Bd himself lives at Villa Franca； which is divided from Nice by a single mountain； on the top of which there is a small fort； called the castle of Montalban。 Immediately after our arrival we were visited by one Mr。 de Martines； a most agreeable young fellow； a lieutenant in the Swiss regiment； which is here in garrison。 He is a Protestant； e