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It would require the talents of a very skilful architect to lay the foundation of a good mole； on an open beach like this； exposed to the swell of the whole Mediterranean； without any island or rock in the offing； to break the force of the waves。 Besides； the shore is bold； and the bottom foul。 There are seventeen feet of water in the basin； sufficient to float vessels of one hundred and fifty ton； and this is chiefly supplied by a small stream of very fine water； another great convenience for shipping。 On the side of the mole； there is a constant guard of soldiers； and a battery of seven cannon； pointing to the sea。 On the other side； there is a curious manufacture for twisting or reeling silk； a tavern； a coffee…house； and several other buildings； for the convenience of the sea…faring people。 Without the harbour； is a lazarette； where persons coming from infected places； are obliged to perform quarantine。 The harbour has been declared a free…port； and it is generally full of tartans； polacres； and other small vessels； that come from Sardinia； Ivica； Italy； and Spain； loaded with salt； wine； and other commodities； but here is no trade of any great consequence。
The city of Nice is provided with a senate； which administers justice under the auspices of an avocat…general； sent hither by the king。 The internal oeconomy of the town is managed by four consuls； one for the noblesse。 another for the merchants； a third for the bourgeois； and a fourth for the peasants。 These are chosen annually from the town…council。 They keep the streets and markets in order； and superintend the public works。 There is also an intendant； who takes care of his majesty's revenue： but there is a discretionary power lodged in the person of the commandant； who is always an officer of rank in the service； and has under his immediate command the regiment which is here in garrison。 That which is here now is a Swiss battalion； of which the king has five or six in his service。 There is likewise a regiment of militia； which is exercised once a year。 But of all these particulars； I shall speak more fully on another occasion。
When I stand upon the rampart； and look round me； I can scarce help thinking myself inchanted。 The small extent of country which I see； is all cultivated like a garden。 Indeed； the plain presents nothing but gardens； full of green trees； loaded with oranges； lemons； citrons； and bergamots； which make a delightful appearance。 If you examine them more nearly； you will find plantations of green pease ready to gather； all sorts of sallading； and pot…herbs； in perfection； and plats of roses； carnations； ranunculas； anemonies； and daffodils； blowing in full glory； with such beauty； vigour； and perfume； as no flower in England ever exhibited。
I must tell you； that presents of carnations are sent from hence； in the winter； to Turin and Paris； nay； sometimes as far as London； by the post。 They are packed up in a wooden box； without any sort of preparation； one pressed upon another： the person who receives them； cuts off a little bit of the stalk； and steeps them for two hours in vinegar and water； when they recover their full bloom and beauty。 Then he places them in water…bottles； in an apartment where they are screened from the severities of the weather； and they will continue fresh and unfaded the best part of a month。
Amidst the plantations in the neighbourhood of Nice； appear a vast number of white bastides； or country…houses； which make a dazzling shew。 Some few of these are good villas； belonging to the noblesse of this county； and even some of the bourgeois are provided with pretty lodgeable cassines； but in general； they are the habitations of the peasants； and contain nothing but misery and vermin。 They are all built square； and； being whitened with lime or plaister； contribute greatly to the richness of the view。 The hills are shaded to the tops with olive…trees； which are always green； and those hills are over…topped by more distant mountains； covered with snow。 When I turn myself towards the sea； the view is bounded by the horizon； yet in a clear morning； one can perceive the high lands of Corsica。 On the right hand； it is terminated by Antibes； and the mountain of Esterelles； which I described in my last。 As for the weather； you will conclude； from what I have said of the oranges； flowers； etc。 that it must be wonderfully mild and serene： but of the climate； I shall speak hereafter。 Let me only observe； en passant； that the houses in general have no chimnies； but in their kitchens； and that many people； even of condition； at Nice； have no fire in their chambers； during the whole winter。 When the weather happens to be a little more sharp than usual； they warm their apartments with a brasiere or pan of charcoal。
Though Nice itself retains few marks of antient splendor； there are considerable monuments of antiquity in its neighbourhood。 About two short miles from the town； upon the summit of a pretty high hill； we find the ruins of the antient city Cemenelion； now called Cimia； which was once the metropolis of the Maritime Alps； and the scat of a Roman president。 With respect to situation； nothing could be more agreeable or salubrious。 It stood upon the gentle ascent and summit of a hill； fronting the Mediterranean； from the shore of which； it is distant about half a league； and； on the other side； it overlooked a bottom； or narrow vale； through which the Paglion （antiently called Paulo） runs towards the walls of Nice。 It was inhabited by a people； whom Ptolomy and Pliny call the Vedantij： but these were undoubtedly mixed with a Roman colony； as appears by the monuments which still remain； I mean the ruins of an amphitheatre； a temple of Apollo； baths； aqueducts； sepulchral； and other stones； with inscriptions； and a great number of medals which the peasants have found by accident； in digging and labouring the vineyards and cornfields； which now cover the ground where the city stood。
Touching this city； very little is to be learned from the antient historians： but that it was the seat of a Roman praeses； is proved by the two following inscriptions； which are still extant。
P。 AELIO。 SEVERINO。 V。 E。 P。 PRAESIDI。 OPTIMO。 ORDO。 CEMEN。 PATRONO。
By the Senate of Cemenelion； Dedicated to His Excellency P。 Aelius Severinus； the best of Governors and Patrons。
This is now in the possession of the count de Gubernatis； who has a country…house upon the spot。 The other； found near the same place； is in praise of the praeses Marcus Aurelius Masculus。
M。 AVRELIO。 MASCVLO。 V。 E。 OB。 EXIMIAM。 PRAESIDATVS EIVS。 INTEGRITATEM。 ET EGREGIAM。 AD OMNES HOMINES MANSVETVDINEM。 ET。 VRGENTIS ANNONAE。 SINCERAM。 PRAEBITIONEM。 AC。 MVNIFICENTIAM。 ET。 QVOD。 AQVAE VSVM。 VETVSTATE。 LAPSVM。 REQVI… SITVM。 AC。 REPERTVM。 SAECVLI FELICITATE。 CVRSVI。 PRISTINO REDDIDERIT。 COLLEG。 III。 QVIB。 EX。 SCC。 P。 EST PATRONO。 DIGNISS。
Inscribed by the three corporations under the authority of the Senate； to their most worthy Patron； His Excellency M。 Aurelius Masculus； in testimony of their gratitude for the blessings of his incorruptible administration； his wonderful a