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imes in a winter； and was never of long continuance； that in general； the weather was very mild and agreeable during the winter months； that living was very cheap in this part of Provence； which afforded great plenty of game。 Here； too； I found a young Irish recollet； in his way from Rome to his own country。 He complained； that he was almost starved by the inhospitable disposition of the French people； and that the regular clergy； in particular； had treated him with the most cruel disdain。 I relieved his necessities； and gave him a letter to a gentleman of his own country at Montpellier。
When I rose in the morning； and opened a window that looked into the garden； I thought myself either in a dream； or bewitched。 All the trees were cloathed with snow； and all the country covered at least a foot thick。 〃This cannot be the south of France； （said I to myself） it must be the Highlands of Scotland！〃 At a wretched town called Muy； where we dined； I had a warm dispute with our landlord； which； however； did not terminate to my satisfaction。 I sent on the mules before； to the next stage； resolving to take post…horses； and bespoke them accordingly of the aubergiste； who was； at the same time； inn…keeper and post…master。 We were ushered into the common eating…room； and had a very indifferent dinner； after which； I sent a loui'dore to be changed； in order to pay the reckoning。 The landlord； instead of giving the full change； deducted three livres a head for dinner； and sent in the rest of the money by my servant。 Provoked more at his ill manners； than at his extortion； I ferreted him out of a bed…chamber； where he had concealed himself； and obliged him to restore the full change； from which I paid him at the rate of two livres a head。 He refused to take the money； which I threw down on the table； and the horses being ready； stepped into the coach； ordering the postillions to drive on。 Here I had certainly reckoned without my host。 The fellows declared they would not budge； until I should pay their master； and as I threatened them with manual chastisement； they alighted； and disappeared in a twinkling。 I was now so incensed； that though I could hardly breathe； though the afternoon was far advanced； and the street covered with wet snow； I walked to the consul of the town； and made my complaint in form。 This magistrate； who seemed to be a taylor； accompanied me to the inn； where by this time the whole town was assembled； and endeavoured to persuade me to compromise the affair。 I said； as he was the magistrate； I would stand to his award。 He answered； 〃that he would not presume to determine what I was to pay。〃 I have already paid him a reasonable price for his dinner； （said I） and now I demand post…horses according to the king's ordonnance。 The aubergiste said the horses were ready； but the guides were run away； and he could not find others to go in their place。 I argued with great vehemence； offering to leave a loui'dore for the poor of the parish； provided the consul would oblige the rascal to do his duty。 The consul shrugged up his shoulders； and declared it was not in his power。 This was a lie； but I perceived he had no mind to disoblige the publican。 If the mules had not been sent away； I should certainly have not only payed what I thought proper； but corrected the landlord into the bargain； for his insolence and extortion； but now I was entirely at his mercy； and as the consul continued to exhort me in very humble terms； to comply with his demands； I thought proper to acquiesce。 Then the postillions immediately appeared： the crowd seemed to exult in the triumph of the aubergiste； and I was obliged to travel in the night； in very severe weather； after all the fatigue and mortification I had undergone。
We lay at Frejus； which was the Forum Julianum of the antients； and still boasts of some remains of antiquity； particularly the ruins of an amphitheatre； and an aqueduct。 The first we passed in the dark； and next morning the weather was so cold that I could not walk abroad to see it。 The town is at present very inconsiderable； and indeed in a ruinous condition。 Nevertheless； we were very well lodged at the post…house； and treated with more politeness than we had met with in any other part of France。
As we had a very high mountain to ascend in the morning； I ordered the mules on before to the next post； and hired six horses for the coach。 At the east end of Frejus； we saw close to the road on our left…hand； the arcades of the antient aqueduct； and the ruins of some Roman edifices； which seemed to have been temples。 There was nothing striking in the architecture of the aqueduct。 The arches are small and low； without either grace or ornament； and seem to have been calculated for mere utility。
The mountain of Esterelles； which is eight miles over； was formerly frequented by a gang of desperate banditti； who are now happily exterminated： the road is very good； but in some places very steep and bordered by precipices。 The mountain is covered with pines； and the laurus cerasus； the fruit of which being now ripe； made a most romantic appearance through the snow that lay upon the branches。 The cherries were so large that I at first mistook them for dwarf oranges。 I think they are counted poisonous in England； but here the people eat them without hesitation。 In the middle of the mountain is the post…house； where we dined in a room so cold； that the bare remembrance of it makes my teeth chatter。 After dinner I chanced to look into another chamber that fronted the south； where the sun shone； and opening a window perceived； within a yard of my hand； a large tree loaded with oranges； many of which were ripe。 You may judge what my astonishment was to find Winter in all his rigour reigning on one side of the house； and Summer in all her glory on the other。 Certain it is； the middle of this mountain seemed to be the boundary of the cold weather。 As we proceeded slowly in the afternoon we were quite enchanted。 This side of the hill is a natural plantation of the most agreeable ever…greens； pines； firs； laurel； cypress； sweet myrtle； tamarisc； box； and juniper； interspersed with sweet marjoram； lavender； thyme； wild thyme； and sage。 On the right…hand the ground shoots up into agreeable cones； between which you have delightful vistas of the Mediterranean； which washes the foot of the rock； and between two divisions of the mountains； there is a bottom watered by a charming stream； which greatly adds to the rural beauties of the scene。
This night we passed at Cannes； a little fishing town； agreeably situated on the beach of the sea； and in the same place lodged Monsieur Nadeau d'Etrueil； the unfortunate French governor of Guadeloupe； condemned to be imprisoned for life in one of the isles Marguerite； which lie within a mile of this coast。
Next day we journeyed by the way of Antibes； a small maritime town； tolerably well fortified； and passing the little river Loup； over a stone…bridge； arrived about noon at the village of St。 Laurent； the extremity of France； where we passed the Var； after our baggage had undergone examination。 From Cannes to