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most without bloodshed； over weak； dispirited； divided； and defenceless nations。 It was Colbert that improved the marine； instituted manufactures； encouraged commerce； undertook works of public utility； and patronized the arts and sciences。 But Louis （you will say） had the merit of choosing and supporting those ministers； and those generals。 I answer； no。 He found Colbert and Louvois already chosen： he found Conde and Turenne in the very zenith of military reputation。 Luxemburg was Conde's pupil； and Vendome； a prince of the blood； who at first obtained the command of armies in consequence of his high birth； and happened to turn out a man of genius。 The same Louis had the sagacity to revoke the edict of Nantz； to entrust his armies to a Tallard； a Villeroy； and a Marsin。 He had the humanity to ravage the country； burn the towns； and massacre the people of the Palatinate。 He had the patriotism to impoverish and depopulate his own kingdom； in order to prosecute schemes of the most lawless ambition。 He had the Consolation to beg a peace from those he had provoked to war by the most outrageous insolence； and he had the glory to espouse Mrs。 Maintenon in her old age； the widow of the buffoon Scarron。 Without all doubt； it was from irony he acquired the title le Grand。
Having received a favourable answer from Mr。 B； the English consul at Nice； and recommended the care of my heavy baggage to Mr。 Ray； who undertook to send it by sea from Cette to Villefranche； I hired a coach and mules for seven loui'dores； and set out from Montpellier on the 13th of November； the weather being agreeable； though the air was cold and frosty。 In other respects there were no signs of winter： the olives were now ripe； and appeared on each side of the road as black as sloes； and the corn was already half a foot high。 On the second day of our journey； we passed the Rhone on a bridge of boats at Buccaire； and lay on the other side at Tarrascone。 Next day we put up at a wretched place called Orgon； where； however； we were regaled with an excellent supper； and among other delicacies； with a dish of green pease。 Provence is a pleasant country； well cultivated； but the inns are not so good here as in Languedoc； and few of them are provided with a certain convenience which an English traveller can very ill dispense with。 Those you find are generally on the tops of houses； exceedingly nasty； and so much exposed to the weather； that a valetudinarian cannot use them without hazard of his life。 At Nismes in Languedoc； where we found the Temple of Cloacina in a most shocking condition； the servant…maid told me her mistress had caused it to be made on purpose for the English travellers； but now she was very sorry for what she had done； as all the French who frequented her house； instead of using the seat； left their offerings on the floor； which she was obliged to have cleaned three or four times a day。 This is a degree of beastliness； which would appear detestable even in the capital of North…Britain。 On the fourth day of our pilgrimage； we lay in the suburbs of Aix； but did not enter the city； which I had a great curiosity to see。 The villainous asthma baulked me of that satisfaction。 I was pinched with the cold； and impatient to reach a warmer climate。 Our next stage was at a paltry village； where we were poorly entertained。 I looked so ill in the morning； that the good woman of the house； who was big with child； took me by the hand at parting； and even shed tears； praying fervently that God would restore me to my health。 This was the only instance of sympathy； compassion； or goodness of heart； that I had met with among the publicans of France。 Indeed at Valencia； our landlady； understanding I was travelling to Montpellier for my health would have dissuaded me from going thither； and exhorted me； in particular； to beware of the physicians； who were all a pack of assassins。 She advised me to eat fricassees of chickens； and white meat； and to take a good bouillon every morning。
A bouillon is an universal remedy among the good people of France； insomuch； that they have no idea of any person's dying； after having swallowed un bon bouillon。 One of the English gentlemen； who were robbed and murdered about thirty years ago between Calais and Boulogne； being brought to the post…house of Boulogne with some signs of life； this remedy was immediately administered。 〃What surprises me greatly； （said the post…master； speaking of this melancholy story to a friend of mine； two years after it happened） I made an excellent bouillon； and poured it down his throat with my own hands； and yet he did not recover。〃 Now； in all probability； this bouillon it was that stopped his breath。 When I was a very young man； I remember to have seen a person suffocated by such impertinent officiousness。 A young man of uncommon parts and erudition； very well esteemed at the university of Gow was found early one morning in a subterranean vault among the ruins of an old archiepiscopal palace； with his throat cut from ear to ear。 Being conveyed to a public…house in the neighbourhood； he made signs for pen； ink； and paper； and in all probability would have explained the cause of this terrible catastrophe； when an old woman； seeing the windpipe； which was cut； sticking out of the wound； and mistaking it for the gullet； by way of giving him a cordial to support his spirits； poured into it； through a small funnel； a glass of burnt brandy； which strangled him in the tenth part of a minute。 The gash was so hideous； and formed by so many repeated strokes of a razor； that the surgeons believed he could not possibly be the perpetrator himself； nevertheless this was certainly the case。
At Brignolles； where we dined； I was obliged to quarrel with the landlady； and threaten to leave her house； before she would indulge us with any sort of flesh…meat。 It was meagre day； and she had made her provision accordingly。 She even hinted some dissatisfaction at having heretics in her house： but； as I was not disposed to eat stinking fish； with ragouts of eggs and onions； I insisted upon a leg of mutton； and a brace of fine partridges； which I found in the larder。 Next day； when we set out in the morning from Luc； it blew a north…westerly wind so extremely cold and biting； that even a flannel wrapper could not keep me tolerably warm in the coach。 Whether the cold had put our coachman in a bad humour； or he had some other cause of resentment against himself； I know not； but we had not gone above a quarter of a mile； when he drove the carriage full against the corner of a garden wall； and broke the axle…tree； so that we were obliged to return to the inn on foot； and wait a whole day； until a new piece could be made and adjusted。 The wind that blew； is called Maestral； in the Provencial dialect； and indeed is the severest that ever I felt。 At this inn； we met with a young French officer who had been a prisoner in England； and spoke our language pretty well。 He told me； that such a wind did not blow above twice or three times in a winter； and was never of long continuance； that in general； the weather was very mild and