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room： one would imagine that the further we advance to the southward the living is the dearer； though in fact every article of housekeeping is cheaper in Languedoc than many other provinces of France。 This imposition is owing to the concourse of English who come hither； and； like simple birds of passage； allow themselves to be plucked by the people of the country； who know their weak side； and make their attacks accordingly。 They affect to believe； that all the travellers of our country are grand seigneurs； immensely rich and incredibly generous； and we are silly enough to encourage this opinion； by submitting quietly to the most ridiculous extortion； as well as by committing acts of the most absurd extravagance。 This folly of the English； together with a concourse of people from different quarters； who come hither for the re…establishment of their health； has rendered Montpellier one of the dearest places in the South of France。 The city； which is but small； stands upon a rising ground fronting the Mediterranean； which is about three leagues to the southward： on the other side is an agreeable plain； extending about the same distance towards the mountains of the Cevennes。 The town is reckoned well built； and what the French call bien percee； yet the streets are in general narrow； and the houses dark。 The air is counted salutary in catarrhous consumptions； from its dryness and elasticity： but too sharp in cases of pulmonary imposthumes。
It was at Montpellier that we saw for the first time any signs of that gaiety and mirth for which the people of this country are celebrated。 In all other places through which we passed since our departure from Lyons； we saw nothing but marks of poverty and chagrin。 We entered Montpellier on a Sunday； when the people were all dressed in their best apparel。 The streets were crowded； and a great number of the better sort of both sexes sat upon stone seats at their doors； conversing with great mirth and familiarity。 These conversations lasted the greatest part of the night； and many of them were improved with musick both vocal and instrumental： next day we were visited by the English residing in the place； who always pay this mark of respect to new comers。 They consist of four or five families； among whom I could pass the winter very agreeably； if the state of my health and other reasons did not call me away。
Mr。 L had arrived two days before me； troubled with the same asthmatic disorder； under which I have laboured so long。 He told me he had been in quest of me ever since he left England。 Upon comparing notes； I found he had stopped at the door of a country inn in Picardy； and drank a glass of wine and water； while I was at dinner up stairs； nay； he had even spoke to my servant； and asked who was his master； and the man； not knowing him； replied； he was a gentleman from Chelsea。 He had walked by the door of the house where I lodged at Paris； twenty times； while I was in that city； and the very day before he arrived at Montpellier； he had passed our coach on the road。
The garrison of this city consists of two battalions； one of which is the Irish regiment of Berwick； commanded by lieutenant colonel Tents； a gentleman with whom we contracted an acquaintance at Boulogne。 He treats us with great politeness； and indeed does every thing in his power to make the place agreeable to us。 The duke of Fitz…James； the governor； is expected here in a little time。 We have already a tolerable concert twice a week； there will be a comedy in the winter； and the states of Provence assemble in January； so that Montpellier will be extremely gay and brilliant。 These very circumstances would determine me to leave it。 I have not health to enjoy these pleasures： I cannot bear a croud of company such as pours in upon us unexpectedly at all hours； and I foresee； that in staying at Montpellier； I should be led into an expence； which I can ill afford。 I have therefore forwarded the letter I received from general Pn； to Mr。 Bd； our consul at Nice； signifying my intention of going thither； and explaining the kind of accommodation I would choose to have at that place。
The day after our arrival； I procured tolerable lodgings in the High Street； for which I pay fifty sols； something more than two shillings per day； and I am furnished with two meals a day by a traiteur for ten livres： but he finds neither the wine nor the dessert； and indeed we are but indifferently served。 Those families who reside here find their account in keeping house。 Every traveller who comes to this； or any other； town in France with a design to stay longer than a day or two； ought to write beforehand to his correspondent to procure furnished lodgings； to which he may be driven immediately； without being under the necessity of lying in an execrable inn； for all the inns of this country are execrable。
My baggage is not yet arrived by the canal of Languedoc； but that gives me no disturbance； as it is consigned to the care of Mr。 Ray； an English merchant and banker of this place； a gentleman of great probity and worth； from whom I have received repeated marks of uncommon friendship and hospitality。
The next time you hear of me will be from Nice： mean…while； I remain always；Dear Sir； Your affectionate humble servant。
LETTER XI
MONTPELLIER； November 12。
DEAR DOCTORI flattered myself with the hope of much amusement during my short stay at Montpellier。The University； the Botanical Garden； the State of Physic in this part of the world； and the information I received of a curious collection of manuscripts； among which I hoped to find something for our friend Dr。 Hr； all these particulars promised a rich fund of entertainment； which； however； I cannot enjoy。
A few days after my arrival； it began to rain with a southerly wind； and continued without ceasing the best part of a week； leaving the air so loaded with vapours； that there was no walking after sun…set； without being wetted by the dew almost to the skin。 I have always found a cold and damp atmosphere the most unfavourable of any to my constitution。 My asthmatical disorder。 which had not given me much disturbance since I left Boulogne； became now very troublesome； attended with fever； cough spitting； and lowness of spirits； and I wasted visibly every day。 I was favoured with the advice of Dr。 Fitzmaurice； a very worthy sensible physician settled in this place： but I had the curiosity to know the opinion of the celebrated professor F； who is the Boerhaave of Montpellier。 The account I had of his private character and personal deportment； from some English people to whom he was well known； left me no desire to converse with him： but I resolved to consult with him on paper。 This great lanthorn of medicine is become very rich and very insolent； and in proportion as his wealth increases； he is said to grow the more rapacious。 He piques himself upon being very slovenly； very blunt； and very unmannerly； and perhaps to these qualifications be owes his reputation rather than to any superior skill in medicine。 I have known them succeed in our own country； and seen a doctor's parts estimated