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ot down into the basin； in order to contaminate the water at its fountain…head； and understood they belonged to the commandant of the place； who had keys of the subterranean passage。
Fronting the Roman baths are the ruins of an antient temple； which； according to tradition； was dedicated to Diana： but it has been observed by connoisseurs； that all the antient temples of this goddess were of the Ionic order； whereas； this is partly Corinthian； and partly composite。 It is about seventy foot long； and six and thirty in breadth； arched above； and built of large blocks of stone； exactly joined together without any cement。 The walls are still standing； with three great tabernacles at the further end； fronting the entrance。 On each side； there are niches in the intercolumniation of the walls； together with pedestals and shafts of pillars； cornices； and an entablature； which indicate the former magnificence of the building。 It was destroyed during the civil war that raged in the reign of Henry III。 of France。
It is amazing； that the successive irruptions of barbarous nations； of Goths； Vandals； and Moors； of fanatic croisards； still more sanguinary and illiberal than those Barbarians； should have spared this temple； as well as two other still more noble monuments of architecture； that to this day adorn the city of Nismes： I mean the amphitheatre and the edifice； called Maison CarreeThe former of these is counted the finest monument of the kind； now extant； and was built in the reign of Antoninus Pius； who contributed a large sum of money towards its erection。 It is of an oval figure； one thousand and eighty feet in circumference； capacious enough to hold twenty thousand spectators。 The architecture is of the Tuscan order； sixty feet high； composed of two open galleries； built one over another； consisting each of threescore arcades。 The entrance into the arena was by four great gates； with porticos； and the seats； of which there were thirty； rising one above another； consisted of great blocks of stone； many of which still remain。 Over the north gate； appear two bulls； in alto…relievo； extremely well executed； emblems which； according to the custom of the Romans； signified that the amphitheatre was erected at the expence of the people。 There are in other parts of it some work in bas…relief； and heads or busts but indifferently carved。 It stands in the lower part of the town； and strikes the spectator with awe and veneration。 The external architecture is almost intire in its whole circuit； but the arena is filled up with housesThis amphitheatre was fortified as a citadel by the Visigoths； in the beginning of the sixth century。 They raised within it a castle； two towers of which are still extant； and they surrounded it with a broad and deep fossee； which was filled up in the thirteenth century。 In all the subsequent wars to which this city was exposed； it served as the last resort of the citizens； and sustained a great number of successive attacks； so that its preservation is almost miraculous。 It is likely； however； to suffer much more from the Gothic avarice of its own citizens； some of whom are mutilating it every day； for the sake of the stones； which they employ in their own private buildings。 It is surprizing； that the King's authority has not been exerted to put an end to such sacrilegious violation。
If the amphitheatre strikes you with an idea of greatness； the Maison Carree enchants you with the most exquisite beauties of architecture and sculpture。 This is an edifice； supposed formerly to have been erected by Adrian； who actually built a basilica in this city； though no vestiges of it remain： but the following inscription； which was discovered on the front of it； plainly proves； that it was built by the inhabitants of Nismes； in honour of Caius and Lucius Caesar； the grandchildren of Augustus by his daughter Julia； the wife of Agrippa。
C。 CAESARI。 AVGVSTI。 F。 COS。 L CAESARI。 AVGMI。 F。 COS。 DESIGNATO。 PRINCIPIBVS IVVENTUTIS。
To Caius and Lucius Caesar； sons of Augustus； consuls elect； Princes of the Roman youth。
This beautiful edifice； which stands upon a pediment six feet high； is eighty…two feet long； thirty…five broad； and thirty…seven high； without reckoning the pediment。 The body of it is adorned with twenty columns engaged in the wall； and the peristyle； which is open； with ten detached pillars that support the entablature。 They are all of the Corinthian order； fluted and embellished with capitals of the most exquisite sculpture； the frize and cornice are much admired； and the foliage is esteemed inimitable。 The proportions of the building are so happily united； as to give it an air of majesty and grandeur； which the most indifferent spectator cannot behold without emotion。 A man needs not be a connoisseur in architecture； to enjoy these beauties。 They are indeed so exquisite that you may return to them every day with a fresh appetite for seven years together。 What renders them the more curious； they are still entire； and very little affected； either by the ravages of time； or the havoc of war。 Cardinal Alberoni declared； that it was a jewel that deserved a cover of gold to preserve it from external injuries。 An Italian painter； perceiving a small part of the roof repaired by modern French masonry； tore his hair； and exclaimed in a rage； 〃Zounds！ what do I see？ harlequin's hat on the head of Augustus！〃
Without all doubt it is ravishingly beautiful。 The whole world cannot parallel it； and I am astonished to see it standing entire； like the effects of inchantment； after such a succession of ages； every one more barbarous than another。 The history of the antiquities of Nismes takes notice of a grotesque statue； representing two female bodies and legs； united under the head of an old man； but； as it does not inform us where it is kept； I did not see it。
The whole country of Languedoc is shaded with olive trees； the fruit of which begins to ripen； and appears as black as sloes； those they pickle are pulled green； and steeped for some time in a lye made of quick lime or wood ashes； which extracts the bitter taste； and makes the fruit tender。 Without this preparation it is not eatable。 Under the olive and fig trees； they plant corn and vines； so that there is not an inch of ground unlaboured： but here are no open fields； meadows； or cattle to be seen。 The ground is overloaded； and the produce of it crowded to such a degree； as to have a bad effect upon the eye； impressing the traveller with the ideas of indigence and rapacity。 The heat in summer is so excessive； that cattle would find no green forage； every blade of grass being parched up and destroyed。 The weather was extremely hot when we entered Montpellier； and put up at the Cheval Blanc； counted the best auberge in the place； tho' in fact it is a most wretched hovel； the habitation of darkness； dirt； and imposition。 Here I was obliged to pay four livres a meal for every person in my family； and two livres at night for every bed； though all in the same room： one would imagine that the further we advance to the southward the living is the dearer； tho