按键盘上方向键 ← 或 → 可快速上下翻页，按键盘上的 Enter 键可回到本书目录页，按键盘上方向键 ↑ 可回到本页顶部！
————未阅读完？加入书签已便下次继续阅读！
out the distance of a league from the post…road to Nismes； and about three leagues from that city。 I would not willingly pass for a false enthusiast in taste； but I cannot help observing； that from the first distant view of this noble monument； till we came near enough to see it perfectly； I felt the strongest emotions of impatience that I had ever known； and obliged our driver to put his mules to the full gallop； in the apprehension that it would be dark before we reached the place。 I expected to find the building； in some measure； ruinous； but was agreeably disappointed； to see it look as fresh as the bridge at Westminster。 The climate is either so pure and dry； or the free…stone； with which it is built； so hard； that the very angles of them remain as acute as if they had been cut last year。 Indeed； some large stones have dropped out of the arches； but the whole is admirably preserved； and presents the eye with a piece of architecture； so unaffectedly elegant； so simple； and majestic； that I will defy the most phlegmatic and stupid spectator to behold it without admiration。 It was raised in the Augustan age； by the Roman colony of Nismes； to convey a stream of water between two mountains； for the use of that city。 It stands over the river Gardon； which is a beautiful pastoral stream； brawling among rocks； which form a number of pretty natural cascades； and overshadowed on each side with trees and shrubs； which greatly add to the rural beauties of the scene。 It rises in the Cevennes； and the sand of it produces gold； as we learn from Mr。 Reaumur； in his essay on this subject； inserted in the French Memoirs； for the year 1718。 If I lived at Nismes； or Avignon （which last city is within four short leagues of it） I should take pleasure in forming parties to come hither； in summer； to dine under one of the arches of the Pont du Garde； on a cold collation。
This work consists of three bridges； or tire of arches； one above another； the first of six； the second of eleven； and the third of thirty…six。 The height； comprehending the aqueduct on the top； amounts to 174 feet three inches： the length between the two mountains； which it unites； extends to 723。 The order of architecture is the Tuscan； but the symmetry of it is inconceivable。 By scooping the bases of the pilasters； of the second tire of arches； they had made a passage for foot…travellers： but though the antients far excelled us in beauty； they certainly fell short of the moderns in point of conveniency。 The citizens of Avignon have； in this particular； improved the Roman work with a new bridge； by apposition； constructed on the same plan with that of the lower tire of arches； of which indeed it seems to be a part； affording a broad and commodious passage over the river； to horses and carriages of all kinds。 The aqueduct； for the continuance of which this superb work was raised； conveyed a stream of sweet water from the fountain of Eure； near the city of Uzes； and extended near six leagues in length。
In approaching Nismes； you see the ruins of a Roman tower； built on the summit of a hill； which over…looks the city。 It seems to have been intended； at first； as a watch； or signal…tower； though； in the sequel； it was used as a fortress： what remains of it； is about ninety feet high； the architecture of the Doric order。 I no sooner alighted at the inn； than I was presented with a pamphlet； containing an account of Nismes and its antiquities； which every stranger buys。 There are persons too who attend in order to shew the town； and you will always be accosted by some shabby antiquarian； who presents you with medals for sale； assuring you they are genuine antiques； and were dug out of the ruins of the Roman temple and baths。 All those fellows are cheats； and they have often laid under contribution raw English travellers； who had more money than discretion。 To such they sell the vilest and most common trash： but when they meet with a connoisseur； they produce some medals which are really valuable and curious。
Nismes； antiently called Nemausis； was originally a colony of Romans； settled by Augustus Caesar； after the battle of Actium。 It is still of considerable extent； and said to contain twelve thousand families； but the number seems； by this account； to be greatly exaggerated。 Certain it is； the city must have been formerly very extensive； as appears from the circuit of the antient walls； the remains of which are still to be seen。 Its present size is not one third of its former extent。 Its temples； baths； statues； towers； basilica； and amphitheatre； prove it to have been a city of great opulence and magnificence。 At present； the remains of these antiquities are all that make it respectable or remarkable； though here are manufactures of silk and wool； carried on with good success。 The water necessary for these works is supplied by a source at the foot of the rock； upon which the tower is placed； and here were discovered the ruins of Roman baths； which had been formed and adorned with equal taste and magnificence。 Among the rubbish they found a vast profusion of columns； vases； capitals； cornices； inscriptions； medals； statues； and among other things； the finger of a colossal statue in bronze； which； according to the rules of proportion； must have been fifteen feet high。 From these particulars； it appears that the edifices must have been spacious and magnificent。 Part of a tesselated pavement still remains。 The antient pavement of the bath is still intire； all the rubbish has been cleared away； and the baths； in a great measure； restored on the old plan； though they are not at present used for any thing but ornament。 The water is collected into two vast reservoirs； and a canal built and lined with hewn stone。 There are three handsome bridges thrown over this vast canal。 It contains a great body of excellent water； which by pipes and other small branching canals； traverses the town； and is converted to many different purposes of oeconomy and manufacture。 Between the Roman bath and these great canals； the ground is agreeably laid out in pleasure…walks。 for the recreation of the inhabitants。 Here are likewise ornaments of architecture； which savour much more of French foppery； than of the simplicity and greatness of the antients。 It is very surprizing； that this fountain should produce such a great body of water； as fills the basin of the source； the Roman basin； two large deep canals three hundred feet in length； two vast basins that make part of the great canal； which is eighteen hundred feet long。 eighteen feet deep； and forty…eight feet broad。 When I saw it； there was in it about eight or nine feet of water； transparent as crystal。 It must be observed； however； for the honour of French cleanliness； that in the Roman basin； through which this noble stream of water passes； I perceived two washerwomen at work upon children's clouts and dirty linnen。 Surprized； and much disgusted at this filthy phaenomenon； I asked by what means； and by whose permission； those dirty hags had got down into the basin； in order to contaminate the water at its fountain…head； and understood the