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g me amends for the affront he had put upon me at the other place。 Observing that one of the trunks behind was a little displaced； he assisted my servant in adjusting it： then he entered into conversation with me； and gave me to understand； that in a post…chaise； which we had passed； was an English gentleman on his return from Italy。 I wanted to know who he was； and when he said he could not tell； I asked him； in a very abrupt manner； why he had not enquired of his servant。 He shrugged up his shoulders； and retired to the inn door。 Having waited about half an hour； I beckoned to him； and when he approached； upbraided him with having told me that I should be supplied with fresh horses in a few minutes： he seemed shocked； and answered； that he thought he had reason for what he said； observing； that it was as disagreeable to him as to me to wait for a relay。 As it began to rain； I pulled up the glass in his face； and he withdrew again to the door； seemingly ruffled at my deportment。 In a little time the horses arrived； and three of them were immediately put to a very handsome post…chaise； into which he stepped； and set out； accompanied by a man in a rich livery on horseback。 Astonished at this circumstance； I asked the hostler who he was； and he replied； that he was a man of fashion （un seigneur） who lived in the neighbourhood of Auxerre。 I was much mortified to find that I had treated a nobleman so scurvily； and scolded my own people for not having more penetration than myself。 I dare say he did not fail to descant upon the brutal behaviour of the Englishman； and that my mistake served with him to confirm the national reproach of bluntness； and ill breeding； under which we lie in this country。 The truth is； I was that day more than usually peevish； from the bad weather； as well as from the dread of a fit of the asthma； with which I was threatened： and I dare say my appearance seemed as uncouth to him； as his travelling dress appeared to me。 I had a grey mourning frock under a wide great coat； a bob wig without powder； a very large laced hat； and a meagre； wrinkled； discontented countenance。
The fourth night of our journey we lay at Macon； and the next day passed through the Lyonnois； which is a fine country； full of towns； villages； and gentlemen's houses。 In passing through the Maconnois； we saw a great many fields of Indian corn； which grows to the height of six or seven feet： it is made into flour for the use of the common people； and goes by the name of Turkey wheat。 Here likewise； as well as in Dauphine； they raise a vast quantity of very large pompions； with the contents of which they thicken their soup and ragouts。
As we travelled only while the sun was up； on account of my ill health； and the post horses in France are in bad order； we seldom exceeded twenty leagues a day。
I was directed to a lodging…house at Lyons； which being full they shewed us to a tavern； where I was led up three pair of stairs； to an apartment consisting of three paltry chambers； for which the people demanded twelve livres a day： for dinner and supper they asked thirty…two； besides three livres for my servant； so that my daily expence would have amounted to about forty…seven livres； exclusive of breakfast and coffee in the afternoon。 I was so provoked at this extortion； that； without answering one word； I drove to another auberge； where I now am； and pay at the rate of two…and…thirty livres a day； for which I am very badly lodged； and but very indifferently entertained。 I mention these circumstances to give you an idea of the imposition to which strangers are subject in this country。 It must be owned； however； that in the article of eating； I might save half the money by going to the public ordinary； but this is a scheme of oeconomy； which （exclusive of other disagreeable circumstances） neither my own health； nor that of my wife permits me to embrace。 My journey from Paris to Lyons； including the hire of the coach； and all expences on the road； has cost me； within a few shillings； forty loui'dores。 From Paris our baggage （though not plombe） was not once examined till we arrived in this city； at the gate of which we were questioned by one of the searchers； who； being tipt with half a crown； allowed us to proceed without further enquiry；
I purposed to stay in Lyons until I should receive some letters I expected from London； to be forwarded by my banker at Paris： but the enormous expence of living in this manner has determined me to set out in a day or two for Montpellier； although that place is a good way out of the road to Nice。 My reasons for taking that route I shall communicate in my next。 Mean…while； I am ever； Dear Sir； Your affectionate and obliged humble servant。
LETTER IX
MONTPELLIER； November 5； 1763。
DEAR SIR；The city of Lyons has been so often and so circumstantially described； that I cannot pretend to say any thing new on the subject。 Indeed； I know very little of it； but what I have read in books； as I had but one day to make a tour of the streets； squares； and other remarkable places。 The bridge over the Rhone seems to be so slightly built； that I should imagine it would be one day carried away by that rapid river； especially as the arches are so small； that； after great rains they are sometimes bouchees； or stopped up； that is； they do not admit a sufficient passage for the encreased body of the water。 In order to remedy this dangerous defect； in some measure； they found an artist some years ago； who has removed a middle pier； and thrown two arches into one。 This alteration they looked upon as a masterpiece in architecture； though there is many a common mason in England； who would have undertaken and performed the work； without valuing himself much upon the enterprize。 This bridge； as well as that of St。 Esprit； is built； not in a strait line across the river； but with a curve； which forms a convexity to oppose the current。 Such a bend is certainly calculated for the better resisting the general impetuosity of the stream； and has no bad effect to the eye。
Lyons is a great； populous； and flourishing city but I am surprised to find it is counted a healthy place； and that the air of it is esteemed favourable to pulmonic disorders。 It is situated on the confluence of two large rivers； from which there must be a great evaporation； as well as from the low marshy grounds； which these rivers often overflow。 This must render the air moist； frouzy； and even putrid； if it was not well ventilated by winds from the mountains of Swisserland； and in the latter end of autumn； it must be subject to fogs。 The morning we set out from thence； the whole city and adjacent plains were covered with so thick a fog； that we could not distinguish from the coach the head of the foremost mule that drew it。 Lyons is said to be very hot in summer； and very cold in winter； therefore I imagine must abound with inflammatory and intermittent disorders in the spring and fall of the year。
My reasons for going to Montpellier； which is out of the strait road to Nice； were these。 Having no acquaintance nor correspondents in the South of France； I h