按键盘上方向键 ← 或 → 可快速上下翻页，按键盘上的 Enter 键可回到本书目录页，按键盘上方向键 ↑ 可回到本页顶部！
————未阅读完？加入书签已便下次继续阅读！
My reasons for going to Montpellier； which is out of the strait road to Nice； were these。 Having no acquaintance nor correspondents in the South of France； I had desired my credit might be sent to the same house to which my heavy baggage was consigned。 I expected to find my baggage at Cette； which is the sea…port of Montpellier； and there I also hoped to find a vessel； in which I might be transported by sea to Nice； without further trouble。 I longed to try what effect the boasted air of Montpellier would have upon my constitution； and I had a great desire to see the famous monuments of antiquity in and about the ancient city of Nismes； which is about eight leagues short of Montpellier。
At the inn where we lodged； I found a return berline； belonging to Avignon； with three mules； which are the animals commonly used for carriages in this country。 This I hired for five loui'dores。 The coach was large； commodious； and well…fitted； the mules were strong and in good order； and the driver； whose name was Joseph； appeared to be a sober； sagacious； intelligent fellow； perfectly well acquainted with every place in the South of France。 He told me he was owner of the coach； but I afterwards learned； he was no other than a hired servant。 I likewise detected him in some knavery； in the course of our journey； and plainly perceived he had a fellow…feeling with the inn…keepers on the road； but； in other respects； he was very obliging； serviceable； and even entertaining。 There are some knavish practices of this kind； at which a traveller will do well to shut his eyes； for his own ease and convenience。 He will be lucky if he has to do with a sensible knave； like Joseph； who understood his interest too well to be guilty of very flagrant pieces of imposition。
A man； impatient to be at his journey's end； will find this a most disagreeable way of travelling。 In summer it must be quite intolerable。 The mules are very sure； but very slow。 The journey seldom exceeds eight leagues； about four and twenty miles a day： and as those people have certain fixed stages； you are sometimes obliged to rise in a morning before day； a circumstance very grievous to persons in ill health。 These inconveniences； however； were over…balanced by other agreemens。 We no； sooner quitted Lyons； than we got into summer weather； and travelling through a most romantic country； along the banks of the Rhone； had opportunities （from the slowness of our pace） to contemplate its beauties at leisure。
The rapidity of the Rhone is； in a great measure； owing to its being confined within steep banks on each side。 These are formed almost through its whole course； by a double chain of mountains； which rise with all abrupt ascent from both banks of the river。 The mountains are covered with vineyards； interspersed with small summer…houses； and in many places they are crowned with churches； chapels； and convents； which add greatly to the romantic beauty of the prospect。 The highroad； as far as Avignon； lies along the side of the river； which runs almost in a straight line； and affords great convenience for inland commerce。 Travellers； bound to the southern parts of France； generally embark in the diligence at Lyons； and glide down this river with great velocity； passing a great number of towns and villages on each side； where they find ordinaries every day at dinner and supper。 In good weather； there is no danger in this method of travelling； 'till you come to the Pont St。 Esprit； where the stream runs through the arches with such rapidity； that the boat is sometimes overset。 But those passengers who are under any apprehension are landed above…bridge； and taken in again； after the boat has passed； just in the same manner as at London Bridge。 The boats that go up the river are drawn against the stream by oxen； which swim through one of the arches of this bridge； the driver sitting between the horns of the foremost beast。 We set out from Lyons early on Monday morning； and as a robbery had been a few days before committed in that neighbourhood； I ordered my servant to load my musquetoon with a charge of eight balls。 By the bye； this piece did not fail to attract the curiosity and admiration of the people in every place through which we passed。 The carriage no sooner halted； than a crowd immediately surrounded the man to view the blunderbuss； which they dignified with the title of petit canon。 At Nuys in Burgundy； he fired it in the air； and the whole mob dispersed； and scampered off like a flock of sheep。 In our journey hither； we generally set out in a morning at eight o'clock； and travelled 'till noon； when the mules were put up and rested a couple of hours。 During this halt； Joseph went to dinner； and we went to breakfast； after which we ordered provision for our refreshment in the coach； which we took about three or four in the afternoon； halting for that purpose； by the side of some transparent brook； which afforded excellent water to mix with our wine。 In this country I was almost poisoned with garlic； which they mix in their ragouts； and all their sauces； nay； the smell of it perfumes the very chambers； as well as every person you approach。 I was also very sick of been ficas； grives； or thrushes； and other little birds； which are served up twice a day at all ordinaries on the road。 They make their appearance in vine…leaves； and are always half raw； in which condition the French choose to eat them； rather than run the risque of losing the juice by over…roasting。
The peasants on the South of France are poorly clad； and look as if they were half…starved； diminutive； swarthy； and meagre； and yet the common people who travel； live luxuriously on the road。 Every carrier and mule…driver has two meals a day； consisting each of a couple of courses and a dessert； with tolerable small wine。 That which is called hermitage； and grows in this province of Dauphine； is sold on the spot for three livres a bottle。 The common draught； which you have at meals in this country； is remarkably strong； though in flavour much inferior to that of Burgundy。 The accommodation is tolerable； though they demand （even in this cheap country） the exorbitant price of four livres a head for every meal； of those who choose to eat in their own apartments。 I insisted； however； upon paying them with three； which they received； though not without murmuring and seeming discontented。 In this journey； we found plenty of good mutton； pork； poultry； and game； including the red partridge； which is near twice as big as the partridge of England。 Their hares are likewise surprisingly large and juicy。 We saw great flocks of black turkeys feeding in the fields； but no black cattle； and milk was so scarce； that sometimes we were obliged to drink our tea without it。
One day perceiving a meadow on the side of the road； full of a flower which I took to be the crocus； I desired my servant to alight and pull some of them。 He delivered the musquetoon to Joseph； who began to tamper with it； and off it went with a prodigious report； augmented by an eccho from the mountains that skirted the road。 The mules were so frightened； that t