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upon the road。 Before we left Paris; we laid in a stock of tea; chocolate; cured neats' tongues; and saucissons; or Bologna sausages; both of which we found in great perfection in that capital; where; indeed; there are excellent provisions of all sorts。 About ten in the morning we stopped to breakfast at some auberge; where we always found bread; butter; and milk。 In the mean time; we ordered a poulard or two to be roasted; and these; wrapped in a napkin; were put into the boot of the coach; together with bread; wine; and water。 About two or three in the afternoon; while the horses were changing; we laid a cloth upon our knees; and producing our store; with a few earthen plates; discussed our short meal without further ceremony。 This was followed by a dessert of grapes and other fruit; which we had also provided。 I must own I found these transient refreshments much more agreeable than any regular meal I ate upon the road。 The wine commonly used in Burgundy is so weak and thin; that you would not drink it in England。 The very best which they sell at Dijon; the capital of the province; for three livres a bottle; is in strength; and even in flavour; greatly inferior to what I have drank in London。 I believe all the first growth is either consumed in the houses of the noblesse; or sent abroad to foreign markets。 I have drank excellent Burgundy at Brussels for a florin a bottle; that is; little more than twenty pence sterling。
The country from the forest of Fontainbleau to the Lyonnois; through which we passed; is rather agreeable than fertile; being part of Champagne and the dutchy of Burgundy; watered by three pleasant pastoral rivers; the Seine; the Yonne; and the Saone。 The flat country is laid out chiefly for corn; but produces more rye than wheat。 Almost all the ground seems to be ploughed up; so that there is little or nothing lying fallow。 There are very few inclosures; scarce any meadow ground; and; so far as I could observe; a great scarcity of cattle。 We sometimes found it very difficult to procure half a pint of milk for our tea。 In Burgundy I saw a peasant ploughing the ground with a jack…ass; a lean cow; and a he…goat; yoked together。 It is generally observed; that a great number of black cattle are bred and fed on the mountains of Burgundy; which are the highest lands in France; but I saw very few。 The peasants in France are so wretchedly poor; and so much oppressed by their landlords; that they cannot afford to inclose their grounds; or give a proper respite to their lands; or to stock their farms with a sufficient number of black cattle to produce the necessary manure; without which agriculture can never be carried to any degree of perfection。 Indeed; whatever efforts a few individuals may make for the benefit of their own estates; husbandry in France will never be generally improved; until the farmer is free and independent。
From the frequency of towns and villages; I should imagine this country is very populous; yet it must be owned; that the towns are in general thinly inhabited。 I saw a good number of country seats and plantations near tile banks of the rivers; on each side; and a great many convents; sweetly situated; on rising grounds; where the air is most pure; and the prospect most agreeable。 It is surprising to see how happy the founders of those religious houses have been in their choice of situations; all the world over。
In passing through this country; I was very much struck with the sight of large ripe clusters of grapes; entwined with the briars and thorns of common hedges on the wayside。 The mountains of Burgundy are covered with vines from the bottom to the top; and seem to be raised by nature on purpose to extend the surface; and to expose it the more advantageously to the rays of the sun。 The vandange was but just begun; and the people were employed in gathering the grapes; but I saw no signs of festivity among them。 Perhaps their joy was a little damped by the bad prospect of their harvest; for they complained that the weather had been so unfavourable as to hinder the grapes from ripening。 I thought; indeed; there was something uncomfortable in seeing the vintage thus retarded till the beginning of winter: for; in some parts; I found the weather extremely cold; particularly at a place called Maison…neuve; where we lay; there was a hard frost; and in the morning the pools were covered with a thick crust of ice。 My personal adventures on the road were such as will not bear a recital。 They consisted of petty disputes with landladies; post… masters; and postillions。 The highways seem to be perfectly safe。 We did not find that any robberies were ever committed; although we did not see one of the marechaussee from Paris to Lyons。 You know the marechaussee are a body of troopers well mounted; maintained in France as safe…guards to the public roads。 It is a reproach upon England that some such patrol is not appointed for the protection of travellers。
At Sens in Champagne; my servant; who had rode on before to bespeak fresh horses; told me; that the domestic of another company had been provided before him; altho' it was not his turn; as he had arrived later at the post。 Provoked at this partiality; I resolved to chide the post…master; and accordingly addressed myself to a person who stood at the door of the auberge。 He was a jolly figure; fat and fair; dressed in an odd kind of garb; with a gold laced cap on his head; and a cambric handkerchief pinned to his middle。 The sight of such a fantastic petit maitre; in the character of a post…master; increased my spleen。 I called to him with an air of authority; mixed with indignation; and when he came up to the coach; asked in a peremptory tone; if he did not understand the king's ordonnance concerning the regulation of the posts? He laid his hand upon his breast; but before he could make any answer; I pulled out the post…book; and began to read; with great vociferation; the article which orders; that the traveller who comes first shall be first served。 By this time the fresh horses being put to the carriage; and the postillions mounted; the coach set off all of a sudden; with uncommon speed。 I imagined the post…master had given the fellows a signal to be gone; and; in this persuasion; thrusting my head out at the window; I bestowed some epithets upon him; which must have sounded very harsh in the ears of a Frenchman。 We stopped for a refreshment at a little town called Joigne…ville; where (by the bye) I was scandalously imposed upon; and even abused by a virago of a landlady; then proceeding to the next stage; I was given to understand we could not be supplied with fresh horses。 Here I perceived at the door of the inn; the same person whom I had reproached at Sens。 He came up to the coach; and told me; that notwithstanding what the guides had said; I should have fresh horses in a few minutes。 I imagined he was master both of this house and the auberge at Sens; between which he passed and repassed occasionally; and that he was now desirous of making me amends for the affront he had put upon me at the other place。 Observing that one of the trunk