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travels through france and italy-第28章

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Mons。 Ly seasoned the severity of his political apothegms with  intermediate sallies of mirth and gallantry。 He ogled the  venerable gentlewoman his commere; who sat by him。 He looked;  sighed; and languished; sung tender songs; and kissed the old  lady's hand with all the ardour of a youthful admirer。 I  unfortunately congratulated him on having such a pretty young  gentleman to his son。 He answered; sighing; that the boy had  talents; but did not put them to a proper use〃Long before I  attained his age (said he) I had finished my rhetoric。〃 Captain  B; who had eaten himself black in the face; and; with the  napkin under his chin; was no bad representation of Sancho Panza  in the suds; with the dishclout about his neck; when the duke's  scullions insisted upon shaving him; this sea…wit; turning to the  boy; with a waggish leer; 〃I suppose (said he) you don't  understand the figure of amplification so well as Monsieur your  father。〃 At that instant; one of the nieces; who knew her uncle  to be very ticklish; touched him under the short ribs; on which  the little man attempted to spring up; but lost the centre of  gravity。 He overturned his own plate in the lap of the person  that sat next to him; and falling obliquely upon his own chair;  both tumbled down upon the floor together; to the great  discomposure of the whole company; for the poor man would have  been actually strangled; had not his nephew loosed his stock with  great expedition。 Matters being once more adjusted; and the  captain condoled on his disaster; Mons。 Ly took it in his head  to read his son a lecture upon filial obedience。 This was mingled  with some sharp reproof; which the boy took so ill that he  retired。 The old lady observed that he had been too severe: her  daughter…in…law; who was very pretty; said her brother had given  him too much reason; hinting; at the same time; that he was  addicted to some terrible vices; upon which several individuals  repeated the interjection; ah! ah! 〃Yes (said Mons。 Ly; with a  rueful aspect) the boy has a pernicious turn for gaming: in one  afternoon he lost; at billiards; such a sum as gives me horror to  think of it。〃 〃Fifty sols in one afternoon;〃 (cried the sister)。  〃Fifty sols! (exclaimed the mother…in…law; with marks of  astonishment) that's too muchthat's too much!he's to blame  he's to blame! but youth; you know; Mons。 Lyah! vive la  jeunesse!〃〃et l'amour!〃 cried the father; wiping his eyes;  squeezing her hand; and looking tenderly upon her。 Mr。 B took  this opportunity to bring in the young gentleman; who was  admitted into favour; and received a second exhortation。 Thus  harmony was restored; and the entertainment concluded with fruit;  coffee; and liqueurs。

When a bourgeois of Boulogne takes the air; he goes in a one…horse  chaise; which is here called cabriolet; and hires it for  half…a…crown a day。 There are also travelling chaises; which hold  four persons; two seated with their faces to the horses; and two  behind their backs; but those vehicles are all very ill made; and  extremely inconvenient。 The way of riding most used in this place  is on assback。 You will see every day; in the skirts of the town;  a great number of females thus mounted; with the feet on either  side occasionally; according as the wind blows; so that sometimes  the right and sometimes the left hand guides the beast: but in  other parts of France; as well as in Italy; the ladies sit on  horseback with their legs astride; and are provided with drawers  for that purpose。

When I said the French people were kept in good humour by the  fopperies of their religion; I did not mean that there were no  gloomy spirits among them。 There will be fanatics in religion;  while there are people of a saturnine disposition; and melancholy  turn of mind。 The character of a devotee; which is hardly known  in England; is very common here。 You see them walking to and from  church at all hours; in their hoods and long camblet cloaks; with  a slow pace; demure aspect; and downcast eye。 Those who are poor  become very troublesome to the monks; with their scruples and  cases of conscience: you may see them on their knees; at the  confessional; every hour in the day。 The rich devotee has her  favourite confessor; whom she consults and regales in private; at  her own house; and this spiritual director generally governs the  whole family。 For my part I never knew a fanatic that was not an  hypocrite at bottom。 Their pretensions to superior sanctity; and  an absolute conquest over all the passions; which human reason  was never yet able to subdue; introduce a habit of dissimulation;  which; like all other habits; is confirmed by use; till at length  they become adepts in the art and science of hypocrisy。  Enthusiasm and hypocrisy are by no means incompatible。 The  wildest fanatics I ever knew; were real sensualists in their way  of living; and cunning cheats in their dealings with mankind。

Among the lower class of people at Boulogne; those who take the  lead; are the sea…faring men; who live in one quarter; divided  into classes; and registered for the service of the king。 They  are hardy and raw…boned; exercise the trade of fishermen and  boatmen; and propagate like rabbits。 They have put themselves  under the protection of a miraculous image of the Virgin Mary;  which is kept in one of their churches; and every year carried in  procession。 According to the legend; this image was carried off;  with other pillage; by the English; when they took Boulogne; in  the reign of Henry VIII。 The lady; rather than reside in England;  where she found a great many heretics; trusted herself alone in  an open boat; and crossed the sea to the road of Boulogne; where  she was seen waiting for a pilot。 Accordingly a boat put off to  her assistance; and brought her safe into the harbour: since  which time she has continued to patronize the watermen of  Boulogne。 At present she is very black and very ugly; besides  being cruelly mutilated in different parts of her body; which I  suppose have been amputated; and converted into tobacco…stoppers;  but once a year she is dressed in very rich attire; and carried  in procession; with a silver boat; provided at the expence of the  sailors。 That vanity which characterises the French extends even  to the canaille。 The lowest creature among them is sure to have  her ear…rings and golden cross hanging about her neck。 Indeed  this last is an implement of superstition as well as of dress;  without which no female appears。 The common people here; as in  all countries where they live poorly and dirtily; are hard…featured;  and of very brown; or rather tawny complexions。 As they  seldom eat meat; their juices are destitute of that animal oil  which gives a plumpness and smoothness to the skin; and defends  those fine capillaries from the injuries of the weather; which  would otherwise coalesce; or be shrunk up; so as to impede the  circulation on the external surface of the body。 As for the dirt;  it undoubtedly blocks up the pores of the skin; and disorders the  perspiration; consequently must contribute to the scurvy; itch;  and other cutaneous distempers。

In the quarter of the matelots at Boulogne。 there is a number of  poor Canadi
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