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In the quarter of the matelots at Boulogne。 there is a number of poor Canadians； who were removed from the island of St。 John； in the gulph of St。 Laurence。 when it was reduced by the English。 These people are maintained at the expence of the king； who allows them soldier's pay； that is five sols； or two…pence halfpenny a day； or rather three sols and ammunition bread。 How the soldiers contrive to subsist upon this wretched allowance； I cannot comprehend： but； it must be owned； that those invalids who do duty at Boulogne betray no marks of want。 They are hale and stout； neatly and decently cloathed； and on the whole look better than the pensioners of Chelsea。
About three weeks ago I was favoured with a visit by one Mr。 M； an English gentleman； who seems far gone in a consumption。 He passed the last winter at Nismes in Languedoc； and found himself much better in the beginning of summer； when he embarked at Cette； and returned by sea to England。 He soon relapsed； however； and （as he imagines） in consequence of a cold caught at sea。 He told me； his intention was to try the South again； and even to go as far as Italy。 I advised him to make trial of the air of Nice； where I myself proposed to reside。 He seemed to relish my advice； and proceeded towards Paris in his own carriage。
I shall to…morrow ship my great chests on board of a ship bound to Bourdeaux； they are directed； and recommended to the care of a merchant of that place； who will forward them by Thoulouse； and the canal of Languedoc； to his correspondent at Cette； which is the sea…port of Montpellier。 The charge of their conveyance to Bourdeaux does not exceed one guinea。 They consist of two very large chests and a trunk； about a thousand pounds weight； and the expence of transporting them from Bourdeaux to Cette； will not exceed thirty livres。 They are already sealed with lead at the customhouse； that they may be exempted from further visitation。 This is a precaution which every traveller takes； both by sea and land： he must likewise provide himself with a passe…avant at the bureau； otherwise he may be stopped； and rummaged at every town through which he passes。 I have hired a berline and four horses to Paris； for fourteen loui'dores； two of which the voiturier is obliged to pay for a permission from the farmers of the poste； for every thing is farmed in this country； and if you hire a carriage； as I have done； you must pay twelve livres； or half…a…guinea； for every person that travels in it。 The common coach between Calais and Paris； is such a vehicle as no man would use； who has any regard to his own case and convenience and it travels at the pace of an English waggon。
In ten days I shall set out on my journey； and I shall leave Boulogne with regret。 I have been happy in the acquaintance of Mrs。 B； and a few British families in the place； and it was my good fortune to meet here with two honest gentlemen； whom I had formerly known in Paris； as well as with some of my countrymen； officers in the service of France。 My next will be from Paris。 Remember me to our friends at A's。 I am a little heavy…hearted at the prospect of removing to such a distance from you。 It is a moot point whether I shall ever return。 My health is very precarious。 Adieu。
LETTER VI
PARIS； October 12； 1763。
DEAR SIR；Of our journey from Boulogne I have little to say。 The weather was favourable； and the roads were in tolerable order。 We found good accommodation at Montreuil and Amiens； but in every other place where we stopped； we met with abundance of dirt； and the most flagrant imposition。 I shall not pretend to describe the cities of Abbeville and Amiens； which we saw only en passant； nor take up your time with an account of the stables and palace of Chantilly； belonging to the prince of Conde； which we visited the last day of our journey； nor shall I detain you with a detail of the Trefors de St。 Denis； which； together with the tombs in the abbey church； afforded us some amusement while our dinner was getting ready。 All these particulars are mentioned in twenty different books of tours； travels； and directions； which you have often perused。 I shall only observe； that the abbey church is the lightest piece of Gothic architecture I have seen； and the air within seems perfectly free from that damp and moisture； so perceivable in all our old cathedrals。 This must be owing to the nature of its situation。 There are some fine marble statues that adorn the tombs of certain individuals here interred； but they are mostly in the French taste； which is quite contrary to the simplicity of the antients。 Their attitudes are affected； unnatural； and desultory； and their draperies fantastic； or； as one of our English artists expressed himself； they are all of a flutter。 As for the treasures； which are shewn on certain days to the populace gratis； they are contained in a number of presses； or armoires； and； if the stones are genuine； they must be inestimable： but this I cannot believe。 Indeed I have been told； that what they shew as diamonds are no more than composition： nevertheless； exclusive of these； there are some rough stones of great value； and many curiosities worth seeing。 The monk that shewed them was the very image of our friend Hamilton； both in his looks and manner。
I have one thing very extraordinary to observe of the French auberges； which seems to be a remarkable deviation from the general character of the nation。 The landlords； hostesses； and servants of the inns upon the road； have not the least dash of complaisance in their behaviour to strangers。 Instead of coming to the door； to receive you as in England； they take no manner of notice of you； but leave you to find or enquire your way into the kitchen； and there you must ask several times for a chamber； before they seem willing to conduct you up stairs。 In general； you are served with the appearance of the most mortifying indifference； at the very time they are laying schemes for fleecing you of your money。 It is a very odd contrast between France and England； in the former all the people are complaisant but the publicans； in the latter there is hardly any complaisance but among the publicans。 When I said all the people in France； I ought also to except those vermin who examine the baggage of travellers in different parts of the kingdom。 Although our portmanteaus were sealed with lead； and we were provided with a passe…avant from the douane； our coach was searched at the gate of Paris by which we entered； and the women were obliged to get out； and stand in the open street； till this operation was performed。
I had desired a friend to provide lodgings for me at Paris； in the Fauxbourg St。 Germain； and accordingly we found ourselves accommodated at the Hotel de Montmorency； with a first floor； which costs me ten livres a day。 I should have put up with it had it been less polite； but as I have only a few days to stay in this place； and some visits to receive； I am not sorry that my friend has exceeded his commission。 I have been guilty of another piece of extravagance in hiring a carosse de remise； for which I pay twelve