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who has not only eminently distinguished himself； by his courage and conduct as an officer； but also by his probity and humanity in the exercise； of his office； and by his remarkable hospitality to all strangers； especially the subjects of Great…Britain； whose occasions called them to the place where he commanded。 Being pretty far advanced in years； he begged leave to resign； that he might spend the evening of his days in his own country； and his Sardinian majesty granted his request with regret； after having honoured him with very particular marks of approbation and esteem。 The general talks so favourably of the climate of Nice； with respect to disorders of the breast； that I am now determined to go thither。 It would have been happy for me had he continued in his government。 I think myself still very fortunate； in having obtained of him a letter of recommendation to the English consul at Nice； together with directions how to travel through the South of France。 I propose to begin my journey some time next month； when the weather will be temperate to the southward； and in the wine countries I shall have the pleasure of seeing the vintage； which is always a season of festivity among all ranks of people。
You have been very much mis…informed； by the person who compared Boulogne to Wapping： he did a manifest injustice to this place which is a large agreeable town； with broad open streets； excellently paved； and the houses are of stone； well built and commodious。 The number of inhabitants may amount to sixteen thousand。 You know this was generally supposed to be the portus Itius； and Gessoriacum of the antients： though it is now believed that the portus Itius； from whence Caesar sailed to Britain； is a place called Whitsand； about half way between this place and Calais。 Boulogne is the capital of the Boulonnois； a district extending about twelve leagues； ruled by a governor independent of the governor of Picardy； of which province； however； this country forms a part。 The present governor is the duc d'Aumout。 The town of Boulogne is the see of a bishop suffragan of Rheims； whose revenue amounts to about four…and…twenty thousand livres； or one thousand pounds sterling。 It is also the seat of a seneschal's court； from whence an appeal lies to the parliament of Paris； and thither all condemned criminals are sent； to have their sentence confirmed or reversed。 Here is likewise a bailiwick； and a court of admiralty。 The military jurisdiction of the city belongs to a commandant appointed by the king； a sort of sinecure bestowed upon some old officer。 His appointments are very inconsiderable： he resides in the Upper Town； and his garrison at present consists of a few hundreds of invalids。
Boulogne is divided into the Upper and Lower Towns。 The former is a kind of citadel； about a short mile in circumference； situated on a rising ground； surrounded by a high wall and rampart； planted with rows of trees； which form a delightful walk。 It commands a fine view of the country and Lower Town； and in clear weather the coast of England； from Dover to Folkstone； appears so plain； that one would imagine it was within four or five leagues of the French shore。 The Upper Town was formerly fortified with outworks； which are now in ruins。 Here is a square； a town…house； the cathedral； and two or three convents of nuns； in one of which there are several English girls； sent hither for their education。 The smallness of the expence encourages parents to send their children abroad to these seminaries； where they learn scarce any thing that is useful but the French language； but they never fail to imbibe prejudices against the protestant religion； and generally return enthusiastic converts to the religion of Rome。 This conversion always generates a contempt for； and often an aversion to； their own country。 Indeed it cannot reasonably be expected that people of weak minds； addicted to superstition； should either love or esteem those whom they are taught to consider as reprobated heretics。 Ten pounds a year is the usual pension in these convents； but I have been informed by a French lady who had her education in one of them； that nothing can be more wretched than their entertainment。
The civil magistracy of Boulogne consists of a mayor and echevins； and this is the case in almost all the towns of France。
The Lower Town is continued from the gate of the Upper Town； down the slope of a hill； as far as the harbour； stretching on both sides to a large extent； and is much more considerable than the Upper； with respect to the beauty of the streets； the convenience of the houses； and the number and wealth of the inhabitants。 These； however； are all merchants； or bourgeoise； for the noblesse or gentry live all together in the Upper Town； and never mix with the others。 The harbour of Boulogne is at the mouth of the small river； or rather rivulet Liane； which is so shallow； that the children wade through it at low water。 As the tide makes； the sea flows in； and forms a pretty extensive harbour； which； however； admits nothing but small vessels。 It is contracted at the mouth by two stone jetties or piers； which seem to have been constructed by some engineer； very little acquainted with this branch of his profession； for they are carried out in such a manner； as to collect a bank of sand just at the entrance of the harbour。 The road is very open and unsafe； and the surf very high when the wind blows from the sea。 There is no fortification near the harbour； except a paltry fort mounting about twenty guns； built in the last war by the prince de Cruy； upon a rock about a league to the eastward of Boulogne。 It appears to be situated in such a manner； that it can neither offend； nor be offended。 If the depth of water would admit a forty or fifty gun ship to lie within cannon…shot of it； I apprehend it might be silenced in half an hour； but； in all probability； there will be no vestiges of it at the next rupture between the two crowns。 It is surrounded every day by the sea； at high water； and when it blows a fresh gale towards the shore； the waves break over the top of it； to the terror and astonishment of the garrison； who have been often heard crying piteously for assistance。 I am persuaded； that it will one day disappear in the twinkling of an eye。 The neighbourhood of this fort； which is a smooth sandy beach； I have chosen for my bathing place。 The road to it is agreeable and romantic； lying through pleasant cornfields； skirted by open downs； where there is a rabbit warren； and great plenty of the birds so much admired at Tunbridge under the name of wheat…ears。 By the bye； this is a pleasant corruption of white…a…se； the translation of their French name cul…blanc； taken from their colour for they are actually white towards the tail。
Upon the top of a high rock； which overlooks the harbour； are the remains of an old fortification； which is indiscriminately called； Tour d'ordre； and Julius Caesar's fort。 The original tower was a light…house built by Claudius Caesar； denominated Turris ardens； from the fire burned in it； and this the French have corrupted into Tou