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denominated Turris ardens； from the fire burned in it； and this the French have corrupted into Tour d'ordre； but no vestiges of this Roman work remain； what we now see； are the ruins of a castle built by Charlemagne。 I know of no other antiquity at Boulogne； except an old vault in the Upper Town； now used as a magazine； which is said to be part of an antient temple dedicated to Isis。
On the other side of the harbour； opposite to the Lower Town； there is a house built； at a considerable expence； by a general officer； who lost his life in the late war。 Never was situation more inconvenient； unpleasant； and unhealthy。 It stands on the edge of an ugly morass formed by the stagnant water left by the tide in its retreat： the very walks of the garden are so moist； that； in the driest weather； no person can make a tour of it； without danger of the rheumatism。 Besides； the house is altogether inaccessible； except at low water； and even then the carriage must cross the harbour； the wheels up to the axle…tree in mud： nay； the tide rushes in so fast； that unless you seize the time to a minute； you will be in danger of perishing。 The apartments of this house are elegantly fitted up； but very small； and the garden； notwithstanding its unfavourable situation； affords a great quantity of good fruit。 The ooze； impregnated with sea salt； produces； on this side of the harbour； an incredible quantity of the finest samphire I ever saw。 The French call it passe…pierre； and I suspect its English name is a corruption of sang…pierre。 It is generally found on the faces of bare rocks that overhang the sea； by the spray of which it is nourished。 As it grew upon a naked rock； without any appearance of soil； it might be naturally enough called sang du pierre； or sangpierre； blood of the rock； and hence the name samphire。 On the same side of the harbour there is another new house； neatly built； belonging to a gentleman who has obtained a grant from the king of some ground which was always overflowed at high water。 He has raised dykes at a considerable expence； to exclude the tide； and if he can bring his project to bear； he will not only gain a good estate for himself； but also improve the harbour； by increasing the depth at high…water。
In the Lower Town of Boulogne there are several religious houses； particularly a seminary； a convent of Cordeliers； and another of Capuchins。 This last； having fallen to decay； was some years ago repaired； chiefly by the charity of British travellers； collected by father Graeme； a native of North…Britain； who had been an officer in the army of king James II。 and is said to have turned monk of this mendicant order； by way of voluntary penance； for having killed his friend in a duel。 Be that as it may； he was a well…bred； sensible man； of a very exemplary life and conversation； and his memory is much revered in this place。 Being superior of the convent； he caused the British arms to be put up in the church； as a mark of gratitude for the benefactions received from our nation。 I often walk in the garden of the convent； the walls of which are washed by the sea at high…water。 At the bottom of the garden is a little private grove； separated from it by a high wall； with a door of communication； and hither the Capuchins retire； when they are disposed for contemplation。 About two years ago； this place was said to be converted to a very different use。 There was among the monks one pere Charles； a lusty friar； of whom the people tell strange stories。 Some young women of the town were seen mounting over the wall； by a ladder of ropes； in the dusk of the evening； and there was an unusual crop of bastards that season。 In short； pere Charles and his companions gave such scandal； that the whole fraternity was changed； and now the nest is occupied by another flight of these birds of passage。 If one of our privateers had kidnapped a Capuchin during the war； and exhibited him； in his habit； as a shew in London； he would have proved a good prize to the captors； for I know not a more uncouth and grotesque animal； than an old Capuchin in the habit of his order。 A friend of mine （a Swiss officer） told me； that a peasant in his country used to weep bitterly； whenever a certain Capuchin mounted the pulpit to hold forth to the people。 The good father took notice of this man； and believed he was touched by the finger of the Lord。 He exhorted him to encourage these accessions of grace； and at the same time to be of good comfort； as having received such marks of the divine favour。 The man still continued to weep； as before； every time the monk preached； and at last the Capuchin insisted upon knowing what it was； in his discourse or appearance； that made such an impression upon his heart 〃Ah； father！ （cried the peasant） I never see you but I think of a venerable goat； which I lost at Easter。 We were bred up together in the same family。 He was the very picture of your reverenceone would swear you were brothers。 Poor Baudouin！ he died of a fallrest his soul！ I would willingly pay for a couple of masses to pray him out of purgatory。〃
Among other public edifices at Boulogne； there is an hospital； or workhouse； which seems to be established upon a very good foundation。 It maintains several hundreds of poor people； who are kept constantly at work； according to their age and abilities； in making thread； all sorts of lace； a kind of catgut； and in knitting stockings。 It is under the direction of the bishop； and the see is at present filled by a prelate of great piety and benevolence； though a little inclining to bigotry and fanaticism。 The churches in this town are but indifferently built； and poorly ornamented。 There is not one picture in the place worth looking at； nor indeed does there seem to be the least taste for the liberal arts。
In my next； I shall endeavour to satisfy you in the other articles you desire to know。 Mean…while； I am everYours。
LETTER IV
BOULOGNE； September 1； 1763。
SIR；I am infinitely obliged to D。 H for the favourable manner in which he has mentioned me to the earl of H I have at last recovered my books； by virtue of a particular order to the director of the douane； procured by the application of the English resident to the French ministry。 I am now preparing for my long journey； but； before I leave this place； I shall send you the packet I mentioned； by Meriton。 Mean…while I must fulfil my promise in communicating the observations I have had occasion to make upon this town and country。
The air of Boulogne is cold and moist； and； I believe； of consequence unhealthy。 Last winter the frost； which continued six weeks in London； lasted here eight weeks without intermission； and the cold was so intense； that； in the garden of the Capuchins； it split the bark of several elms from top to bottom。 On our arrival here we found all kinds of fruit more backward than in England。 The frost； in its progress to Britain； is much weakened in crossing the sea。 The atmosphere； impregnated with saline particles； resists the operation of freezing。 Hence； in severe winters； all places near the sea…side are less cold than more inland