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departure drew near； he refused to take it； at the same time insisting upon having the key of the house and garden； as well as on being paid the whole rent directly； though it would not be due till the middle of September。 I was so exasperated at this treatment from a man whom I had cultivated with particular respect； that I determined to contest it at law： but the affair was accommodated by the mediation of a father of the Minims； a friend to both； and a merchant of Nice； who charged himself with the care of the house and furniture。 A stranger must conduct himself with the utmost circumspection to be able to live among these people without being the dupe of imposition。
I had sent to Aix for a coach and four horses； which I hired at the rate of eighteen French livres a day； being equal to fifteen shillings and nine…pence sterling。 The river Var was so swelled by the melting of the snow on the mountains； as to be impassable by any wheel…carriage； and； therefore； the coach remained at Antibes； to which we went by water； the distance being about nine or ten miles。 This is the Antipolis of the antients； said to have been built like Nice； by a colony from Marseilles。 In all probability； however； it was later than the foundation of Nice； and took its name from its being situated directly opposite to that city。 Pliny says it was famous for its tunny…fishery； and to this circumstance Martial alludes in the following lines
Antipolitani； fateor； sum filia thynni。 Essem si Scombri non tibi missa forem。
I'm spawned from Tunny of Antibes； 'tis true。 Right Scomber had I been； I ne'er had come to you。
The famous pickle Garum was made from the Thynnus or Tunny as well as from the Scomber； but that from the Scomber was counted the most delicate。 Commentators； however； are not agreed about the Scomber or Scombrus。 Some suppose it was the Herring or Sprat； others believe it was the mackarel； after all； perhaps it was the Anchovy； which I do not find distinguished by any other Latin name： for the Encrasicolus is a Greek appellation altogether generical。 Those who would be further informed about the Garum and the Scomber may consult Caelius Apicius de recogninaria； cum notis； variorum。
At present； Antibes is the frontier of France towards Italy； pretty strongly fortified； and garrisoned by a battalion of soldiers。 The town is small and inconsiderable： but the basin of the harbour is surrounded to seaward by a curious bulwark founded upon piles driven in the water； consisting of a wall； ramparts； casemates； and quay。 Vessels lie very safe in this harbour； but there is not water at the entrance of it to admit of ships of any burthen。 The shallows run so far off from the coast； that a ship of force cannot lie near enough to batter the town； but it was bombarded in the late war。 Its chief strength by land consists in a small quadrangular fort detached from the body of the place； which； in a particular manner； commands the entrance of the harbour。 The wall of the town built in the sea has embrasures and salient angles； on which a great number of cannon may be mounted。
I think the adjacent country is much more pleasant than that on the side of Nice； and there is certainly no essential difference in the climate。 The ground here is not so encumbered； it is laid out in agreeable inclosures； with intervals of open fields； and the mountains rise with an easy ascent at a much greater distance from the sea； than on the other side of the bay。 Besides； here are charming rides along the beach； which is smooth and firm。 When we passed in the last week of April； the corn was in the ear； the cherries were almost ripe； and the figs had begun to blacken。 I had embarked my heavy baggage on board a London ship； which happened to be at Nice； ready to sail： as for our small trunks or portmanteaus； which we carried along with us； they were examined at Antibes； but the ceremony was performed very superficially； in consequence of tipping the searcher with half…a…crown； which is a wonderful conciliator at all the bureaus in this country。
We lay at Cannes； a neat village； charmingly situated on the beach of the Mediterranean； exactly opposite to the isles Marguerites； where state…prisoners are confined。 As there are some good houses in this place； I would rather live here for the sake of the mild climate； than either at Antibes or Nice。 Here you are not cooped up within walls； nor crowded with soldiers and people： but are already in the country； enjoy a fine air； and are well supplied with all sorts of fish。
The mountains of Esterelles； which in one of my former letters I described as a most romantic and noble plantation of ever…greens； trees； shrubs； and aromatic plants； is at present quite desolate。 Last summer； some execrable villains set fire to the pines； when the wind was high。 It continued burning for several months； and the conflagration extended above ten leagues； consuming an incredible quantity of timber。 The ground is now naked on each side of the road； or occupied by the black trunks of the trees； which have been scorched without falling。 They stand as so many monuments of the judgment of heaven； filling the mind with horror and compassion。 I could hardly refrain from shedding tears at this dismal spectacle； when I recalled the idea of what it was about eighteen months ago。
As we stayed all night at Frejus； I had an opportunity of viewing the amphitheatre at leisure。 As near as I can judge by the eye； it is of the same dimensions with that of Nismes； but shockingly dilapidated。 The stone seats rising from the arena are still extant； and the cells under them； where the wild beasts were kept。 There are likewise the remains of two galleries one over another； and two vomitoria or great gateways at opposite sides of the arena； which is now a fine green； with a road through the middle of it： but all the external architecture and the ornaments are demolished。 The most intire part of the wall now constitutes part of a monastery； the monks of which； I am told； have helped to destroy the amphitheatre； by removing the stones for their own purposes of building。 In the neighbourhood of this amphitheatre； which stands without the walls； are the vestiges of an old edifice； said to have been the palace where the imperator or president resided： for it was a Roman colony； much favoured by Julius Caesar； who gave it the name of Forum Julii； and Civitas Forojuliensis。 In all probability； it was he who built the amphitheatre； and brought hither the water ten leagues from the river of Ciagne； by means of an aqueduct； some arcades of which are still standing on the other side of the town。 A great number of statues were found in this place； together with antient inscriptions； which have been published by different authors。 I need not tell you that Julius Agricola； the father…in…law of Tacitus； the historian； was a native of Frejus； which is now a very poor inconsiderable place。 From hence the country opens to the left； forming an extensive plain between the sea and the mountains； which are a continuation of the Alps； that stretches through Provence and Dauphin