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d the mountains； which are a continuation of the Alps； that stretches through Provence and Dauphine。 This plain watered with pleasant streams； and varied with vineyards； corn…fields； and meadow…ground； afforded a most agreeable prospect to our eyes； which were accustomed to the sight of scorching sands； rugged rocks； and abrupt mountains in the neighbourhood of Nice。 Although this has much the appearance of a corn…country； I am told it does not produce enough for the consumption of its inhabitants； who are obliged to have annual supplies from abroad； imported at Marseilles。 A Frenchman； at an average； eats three times the quantity of bread that satisfies a native of England； and indeed it is undoubtedly the staff of his life。 I am therefore surprised that the Provencaux do not convert part of their vineyards into corn…fields： for they may boast of their wine as they please； but that which is drank by the common people； not only here； but also in all the wine countries of France； is neither so strong； nourishing； nor （in my opinion） so pleasant to the taste as the small…beer of England。 It must be owned that all the peasants who have wine for their ordinary drink are of a diminutive size； in comparison of those who use milk； beer； or even water； and it is a constant observation； that when there is a scarcity of wine； the common people are always more healthy； than in those seasons when it abounds。 The longer I live； the more I am convinced that wine； and all fermented liquors； are pernicious to the human constitution； and that for the preservation of health； and exhilaration of the spirits； there is no beverage comparable to simple water。 Between Luc and Toulon； the country is delightfully parcelled out into inclosures。 Here is plenty of rich pasturage for black cattle； and a greater number of pure streams and rivulets than I have observed in any other parts of France。
Toulon is a considerable place； even exclusive of the basin； docks； and arsenal； which indeed are such as justify the remark made by a stranger when he viewed them。 〃The king of France （said he） is greater at Toulon than at Versailles。〃 The quay； the jetties； the docks； and magazines； are contrived and executed with precision； order； solidity； and magnificence。 I counted fourteen ships of the line lying unrigged in the basin； besides the Tonant of eighty guns； which was in dock repairing； and a new frigate on the stocks。 I was credibly informed that in the last war； the king of France was so ill…served with cannon for his navy； that in every action there was scarce a ship which had not several pieces burst。 These accidents did great damage； and discouraged the French mariners to such a degree； that they became more afraid of their own guns than of those of the English。 There are now at Toulon above two thousand pieces of iron cannon unfit for service。 This is an undeniable proof of the weakness and neglect of the French administration： but a more suprizing proof of their imbecility； is the state of the fortifications that defend the entrance of this very harbour。 I have some reason to think that they trusted for its security entirely to our opinion that it must be inaccessible。 Capt。 E； of one of our frigates； lately entered the harbour with a contrary wind； which by obliging him to tack； afforded an opportunity of sounding the whole breadth and length of the passage。 He came in without a pilot； and made a pretence of buying cordage； or some other stores； but the French officers were much chagrined at the boldness of his enterprize。 They alleged that he came for no other reason but to sound the channel； and that he had an engineer aboard； who made drawings of the land and the forts； their bearings and distances。 In all probability； these suspicions were communicated to the ministry； for an order immediately arrived； that no stranger should be admitted into the docks and arsenal。
Part of the road from hence to Marseilles lies through a vast mountain； which resembles that of Estrelles； but is not so well covered with wood； though it has the advantage of an agreeable stream running through the bottom。
I was much pleased with Marseilles； which is indeed a noble city； large； populous； and flourishing。 The streets of what is called the new Town are open； airy and spacious； the houses well built； and even magnificent。 The harbour is an oval basin； surrounded on every side either by the buildings or the land； so that the shipping lies perfectly secure； and here is generally an incredible number of vessels。 On the city side； there is a semi…circular quay of free…stone； which extends thirteen hundred paces； and the space between this and the houses that front it； is continually filled with a surprising crowd of people。 The gallies； to the number of eight or nine； are moored with their sterns to one part of the wharf； and the slaves are permitted to work for their own benefit at their respective occupations； in little shops or booths； which they rent for a trifle。 There you see tradesmen of all kinds sitting at work； chained by one foot； shoe…makers； taylors； silversmiths； watch and clock…makers； barbers； stocking…weavers； jewellers； pattern…drawers； scriveners； booksellers； cutlers； and all manner of shop…keepers。 They pay about two sols a day to the king for this indulgence； live well and look jolly； and can afford to sell their goods and labour much cheaper than other dealers and tradesmen。 At night； however； they are obliged to lie aboard。 Notwithstanding the great face of business at Marseilles； their trade is greatly on the decline； and their merchants are failing every day。 This decay of commerce is in a great measure owing to the English； who； at the peace； poured in such a quantity of European merchandize into Martinique and Guadalupe； that when the merchants of Marseilles sent over their cargoes； they found the markets overstocked； and were obliged to sell for a considerable loss。 Besides； the French colonists had such a stock of sugars； coffee； and other commodities lying by them during the war； that upon the first notice of peace； they shipped them off in great quantities for Marseilles。 I am told that the produce of the islands is at present cheaper here than where it grows； and on the other hand the merchandize of this country sells for less money at Martinique than in Provence。
A single person； who travels in this country； may live at a reasonable rate in these towns； by eating at the public ordinaries： but I would advise all families that come hither to make any stay； to take furnished lodgings as soon as they can： for the expence of living at an hotel is enormous。 I was obliged to pay at Marseilles four livres a head for every meal； and half that price for my servant； and was charged six livres a day besides for the apartment； so that our daily expence； including breakfast and a valet de place； amounted to two loui'dores。 The same imposition prevails all over the south of France； though it is generally supposed to be the cheapest and most plentiful part of the kingdom。 Without all doubt； it must be owing to the folly and extravagance of En