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uides were so confident； and my companion； who had passed the same way on other occasions； was so secure； that I ventured to place myself on this machine； one of the coulants standing behind me； and the other sitting before； as the conductor； with his feet paddling among the snow； in order to moderate the velocity of its descent。 Thus accommodated； we descended the mountain with such rapidity； that in an hour we reached Limon； which is the native place of almost all the muleteers who transport merchandize from Nice to Coni and Turin。 Here we waited full two hours for the mules； which travelled with the servants by the common road。 To each of the coulants we paid forty sols； which are nearly equal to two shillings sterling。 Leaving Limon； we were in two hours quite disengaged from the gorges of the mountains； which are partly covered with wood and pasturage； though altogether inaccessible； except in summer； but from the foot of the Col de Tende； the road lies through a plain all the way to Turin。 We took six hours to travel from the inn where we had lodged over the mountain to Limon； and five hours from thence to Coni。 Here we found our baggage； which we had sent off by the carriers one day before we departed from Nice； and here we dismissed our guides； together with the mules。 In winter； you have a mule for this whole journey at the rate of twenty livres； and the guides are payed at the rate of two livres a day； reckoning six days； three for the journey to Coni； and three for their return to Nice。 We set out so early in the morning in order to avoid the inconveniencies and dangers that attend the passage of this mountain。 The first of these arises from your meeting with long strings of loaded mules in a slippery road； the breadth of which does not exceed a foot and an half。 As it is altogether impossible for two mules to pass each other in such a narrow path； the muleteers have made doublings or elbows in different parts； and when the troops of mules meet； the least numerous is obliged to turn off into one of these doublings； and there halt until the others are past。 Travellers； in order to avoid this disagreeable delay； which is the more vexatious； considering the excessive cold； begin the ascent of the mountain early in the morning before the mules quit their inns。 But the great danger of travelling here when the sun is up； proceeds from what they call the Valanches。 These are balls of snow detached from the mountains which over…top the road； either by the heat of the sun； or the humidity of the weather。 A piece of snow thus loosened from the rock； though perhaps not above three or four feet in diameter； increases sometimes in its descent to such a degree； as to become two hundred paces in length； and rolls down with such rapidity； that the traveller is crushed to death before he can make three steps on the road。 These dreadful heaps drag every thing along with them in their descent。 They tear up huge trees by the roots； and if they chance to fall upon a house； demolish it to the foundation。 Accidents of this nature seldom happen in the winter while the weather is dry； and yet scarce a year passes in which some mules and their drivers do not perish by the valanches。 At Coni we found the countess C from Nice； who had made the same journey in a chair； carried by porters。 This is no other than a common elbow…chair of wood； with a straw bottom； covered above with waxed cloth； to protect the traveller from the rain or snow； and provided with a foot…board upon which the feet rest。
It is carried like a sedan…chair； and for this purpose six or eight porters are employed at the rate of three or four livres a head per day； according to the season； allowing three days for their return。 Of these six men； two are between the poles carrying like common chairmen； and each of these is supported by the other two； one at each hand： but as those in the middle sustain the greatest burthen； they are relieved by the others in a regular rotation。 In descending the mountain； they carry the poles on their shoulders； and in that case； four men are employed； one at each end。
At Coni； you may have a chaise to go with the same horses to Turin； for which you pay fifteen livres； and are a day and a half on the way。 You may post it； however； in one day； and then the price is seven livres ten sols per post； and ten sols to the postilion。 The method we took was that of cambiatura。 This is a chaise with horses shifted at the same stages that are used in posting： but as it is supposed to move slower； we pay but five livres per post； and ten sols to the postilion。 In order to quicken its pace； we gave ten sols extraordinary to each postilion； and for this gratification； he drove us even faster than the post。 The chaises are like those of Italy； and will take on near two hundred weight of baggage。
Coni is situated between two small streams； and though neither very large nor populous； is considerable for the strength of its fortifications。 It is honoured with the title of the Maiden…Fortress； because though several times besieged； it was never taken。 The prince of Conti invested it in the war of 1744； but he was obliged to raise the siege； after having given battle to the king of Sardinia。 The place was gallantly defended by the baron Leutrum； a German protestant； the best general in the Sardinian service： but what contributed most to the miscarriage of the enemy； was a long tract of heavy rains； which destroyed all their works； and rendered their advances impracticable。
I need not tell you that Piedmont is one of the most fertile and agreeable countries in Europe； and this the most agreeable part of all Piedmont； though it now appeared to disadvantage from the rigorous season of the year： I shall only observe that we passed through Sabellian； which is a considerable town； and arrived in the evening at Turin。 We entered this fine city by the gate of Nice； and passing through the elegant Piazza di San Carlo； took up our quarters at the Bona Fama； which stands at one corner of the great square； called La Piazza Castel。
Were I even disposed to give a description of Turin； I should be obliged to postpone it till another opportunity； having no room at present to say any thing more； but that I am alwaysYours。
LETTER XXXIX
AIX EN PROVENCE； May 10； 1765。
DEAR SIR；I am thus far on my way to England。 I had resolved to leave Nice； without having the least dispute with any one native of the place； but I found it impossible to keep this resolution。 My landlord； Mr。 C； a man of fashion； with whose family we had always lived in friendship； was so reasonable as to expect I should give him up the house and garden； though they were to be paid for till Michaelmas； and peremptorily declared I should not be permitted to sub…let them to any other person。 He had of his own accord assured me more than once that he would take my furniture off my hands； and trusting to this assurance； I had lost the opportunity； of disposing it to advantage： but； when the time of my departure drew near； he refused to take it； at the same time insisting upon having the key of the h