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the real amateur of Paris and the country around; which is full of 
charming corners where one can dine at quiet little restaurants; 
overhanging the water or buried among trees。  You are sure of 
getting the best of attention from the waiters; and the dishes you 
order receive all the cook's attention。  Of an evening the Bois is 
alive with a myriad of bicycles; their lights twinkling among the 
trees like many…colored fire…flies。  To any one who knows how to 
live there; Paris is at its best in the last half of June and July。  
Nevertheless; in a couple of days there will not be an American in 
Paris; London being the objective point; for we love to be 〃in at 
the death;〃 and a coronation; a musical festival; or a big race is 
sure to attract all our floating population。
The Americans who have the hardest time in Paris are those who try 
to 〃run with the deer and hunt with the hounds;〃 as the French 
proverb has it; who would fain serve God and Mammon。  As anything 
especially amusing is sure to take place on Sunday in this wicked 
capital; our friends go through agonies of indecision; their 
consciences pulling one way; their desire to amuse themselves the 
other。  Some find a middle course; it seems; for yesterday this 
conversation was overheard on the steps of the American Church:
FIRST AMERICAN LADY: 〃Are you going to stop for the sermon?〃
SECOND AMERICAN LADY: 〃I am so sorry I can't; but the races begin 
at one!〃
CHAPTER 20 … 〃The Treadmill。〃
A HALF…HUMOROUS; half…pathetic epistle has been sent to me by a 
woman; who explains in it her particular perplexity。  Such letters 
are the windfalls of our profession!  For what is more attractive 
than to have a woman take you for her lay confessor; to whom she 
comes for advice in trouble? opening her innocent heart for your 
inspection!
My correspondent complains that her days are not sufficiently long; 
nor is her strength great enough; for the thousand and one duties 
and obligations imposed upon her。  〃If;〃 she says; 〃a woman has 
friends and a small place in the world … and who has not in these 
days? … she must golf or 'bike' or skate a bit; of a morning; then 
she is apt to lunch out; or have a friend or two in; to that meal。  
After luncheon there is sure to be a 'class' of some kind that she 
has foolishly joined; or a charity meeting; matinee; or reception; 
but above all; there are her 'duty' calls。  She must be home at 
five to make tea; that she has promised her men friends; and they 
will not leave until it is time for her to dress for dinner; 'out' 
or at home; with often the opera; a supper; or a ball to follow。  
It is quite impossible;〃 she adds; 〃under these circumstances to 
apply one's self to anything serious; to read a book or even open a 
periodical。  The most one can accomplish is a glance at a paper。〃
Indeed; it would require an exceptional constitution to carry out 
the above programme; not to mention the attention that a woman must 
(however reluctantly) give to her house and her family。  Where are 
the quiet hours to be found for self…culture; the perusal of a 
favorite author; or; perhaps; a little timid 〃writing〃 on her own 
account?  Nor does this treadmill round fill a few months only of 
her life。  With slight variations of scene and costume; it 
continues through the year。
A painter; I know; was fortunate enough to receive; a year or two 
ago; the commission to paint a well…known beauty。  He was delighted 
with the idea and convinced that he could make her portrait the 
best work of his life; one that would be the stepping…stone to fame 
and fortune。  This was in the spring。  He was naturally burning to 
begin at once; but found to his dismay that the lady was just about 
starting for Europe。  So he waited; and at her suggestion installed 
himself a couple of months later at the seaside city where she had 
a cottage。  No one could be more charming than she was; inviting 
him to dine and drive daily; but when he broached the subject of 
〃sitting;〃 was 〃too busy just that day。〃  Later in the autumn she 
would be quite at his disposal。  In the autumn; however; she was 
visiting; never ten days in the same place。  Early winter found her 
〃getting her house in order;〃 a mysterious rite apparently attended 
with vast worry and fatigue。  With cooling enthusiasm; the painter 
called and coaxed and waited。  November brought the opera and the 
full swing of a New York season。  So far she has given him half a 
dozen sittings; squeezed in between a luncheon; which made her 
〃unavoidably late;〃 for which she is charmingly 〃sorry;〃 and a 
reception that she was forced to attend; although 〃it breaks my 
heart to leave just as you are beginning to work so well; but I 
really must; or the tiresome old cat who is giving the tea will be 
saying all sorts of unpleasant things about me。〃  So she flits off; 
leaving the poor; disillusioned painter before his canvas; knowing 
now that his dream is over; that in a month or two his pretty 
sitter will be off again to New Orleans for the carnival; or 
abroad; and that his weary round of waiting will recommence。  He 
will be fortunate if some day it does not float back to him; in the 
mysterious way disagreeable things do come to one; that she has 
been heard to say; 〃I fear dear Mr。 Palette is not very clever; for 
I have been sitting to him for over a year; and he has really done 
nothing yet。〃
He has been simply the victim of a state of affairs that neither of 
them were strong enough to break through。  It never entered into 
Beauty's head that she could lead a life different from her 
friends。  She was honestly anxious to have a successful portrait of 
herself; but the sacrifice of any of her habits was more than she 
could make。
Who among my readers (and I am tempted to believe they are all more 
sensible than the above young woman) has not; during a summer 
passed with agreeable friends; made a thousand pleasant little 
plans with them for the ensuing winter; … the books they were to 
read at the same time; the 〃exhibitions〃 they were to see; the 
visits to our wonderful collections in the Metropolitan Museum or 
private galleries; cosy little dinners; etc。?  And who has not 
found; as the winter slips away; that few of these charming plans 
have been carried out?  He and his friends have unconsciously 
fallen back into their ruts of former years; and the pleasant 
things projected have been brushed aside by that strongest of 
tyrants; habit。
I once asked a very great lady; whose gracious manner was never 
disturbed; who floated through the endless complications of her 
life with smiling serenity; how she achieved this Olympian calm。  
She was good enough to explain。  〃I make a list of what I want to 
do each day。  Then; as I find my day passing; or I get behind; or 
tired; I throw over every other engagement。  I could have done them