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such a reform that our girls； on marrying； may feel that some
duties and responsibilities go with their new positions； and a
state of things be changed； where it is possible for a woman to be
pitied by her friends as a model of abnegation； because she has
decided to remain in town during the summer to keep her husband
company and make his weary home…coming brighter。 Or where （as in a
story recently heard） a foreigner on being presented to an American
bride abroad and asking for her husband； could hear in answer： 〃Oh；
he could not come； he was too busy。 I am making my wedding…trip
without him。〃
CHAPTER 19 … The Grand Prix
IN most cities； it is impossible to say when the 〃season〃 ends。 In
London and with us in New York it dwindles off without any special
finish； but in Paris it closes like a trap…door； or the curtain on
the last scene of a pantomime； while the lights are blazing and the
orchestra is banging its loudest。 The GRAND PRIX； which takes
place on the second Sunday in June； is the climax of the spring
gayeties。 Up to that date； the social pace has been getting faster
and faster； like the finish of the big race itself； and fortunately
for the lives of the women as well as the horses； ends as suddenly。
In 1897； the last steeple chase at Auteuil； which precedes the
GRAND…PRIX by one week； was won by a horse belonging to an actress
of the THEATRE FRANCAIS； a lady who has been a great deal before
the public already in connection with the life and death of young
Lebaudy。 This youth having had the misfortune to inherit an
enormous fortune； while still a mere boy； plunged into the wildest
dissipation； and became the prey of a band of sharpers and
blacklegs。 Mlle。 Marie Louise Marsy appears to have been the one
person who had a sincere affection for the unfortunate youth。 When
his health gave way during his military service； she threw over her
engagement with the FRANCAIS； and nursed her lover until his death
… a devotion rewarded by the gift of a million。
At the present moment； four or five of the band of self…styled
noblemen who traded on the boy's inexperience and generosity； are
serving out terms in the state prisons for blackmailing； and the
THEATRE FRANCAIS possesses the anomaly of a young and beautiful
actress； who runs a racing stable in her own name。
THE GRAND PRIX dates from the reign of Napoleon III。； who； at the
suggestion of the great railway companies； inaugurated this race in
1862； in imitation of the English Derby； as a means of attracting
people to Paris。 The city and the railways each give half of the
forty…thousand…dollar prize。 It is the great official race of the
year。 The President occupies the central pavilion； surrounded by
the members of the cabinet and the diplomatic corps。 On the
tribunes and lawn can be seen the TOUT PARIS … all the celebrities
of the great and half…world who play such an important part in the
life of France's capital。 The whole colony of the RASTAQUOUERES；
is sure to be there； 〃RASTAS；〃 as they are familiarly called by the
Parisians； who make little if any distinction in their minds
between a South American （blazing in diamonds and vulgar clothes）
and our own select （？） colony。 Apropos of this inability of the
Europeans to appreciate our fine social distinctions； I have been
told of a well…born New Yorker who took a French noblewoman rather
to task for receiving an American she thought unworthy of notice；
and said：
〃How can you receive her？ Her husband keeps a hotel！〃
〃Is that any reason？〃 asked the French…woman； 〃I thought all
Americans kept hotels。〃
For the GRAND PRIX； every woman not absolutely bankrupt has a new
costume； her one idea being a CREATION that will attract attention
and eclipse her rivals。 The dressmakers have had a busy time of it
for weeks before。
Every horse that can stand up is pressed into service for the day。
For twenty…four hours before； the whole city is EN FETE； and Paris
EN FETE is always a sight worth seeing。 The natural gayety of the
Parisians； a characteristic noticed （if we are to believe the
historians） as far back as the conquest of Gaul by Julius Caesar；
breaks out in all its amusing spontaneity。 If the day is fine； the
entire population gives itself up to amusement。 From early morning
the current sets towards the charming corner of the Bois where the
Longchamps race…course lies； picturesquely encircled by the Seine
（alive with a thousand boats）； and backed by the woody slopes of
Suresnes and St。 Cloud。 By noon every corner and vantage point of
the landscape is seized upon； when； with a blare of trumpets and
the rattle of cavalry； the President arrives in his turnout A LA
DAUMONT； two postilions in blue and gold； and a PIQUEUR； preceded
by a detachment of the showy GARDES REPUBLICAINS on horseback； and
takes his place in the little pavilion where for so many years
Eugenie used to sit in state； and which has sheltered so many
crowned heads under its simple roof。 Faure's arrival is the signal
for the racing to begin； from that moment the interest goes on
increasing until the great 〃event。〃 Then in an instant the vast
throng of human beings breaks up and flows homeward across the
Bois； filling the big Place around the Arc de Triomphe； rolling
down the Champs Elysees； in twenty parallel lines of carriages。
The sidewalks are filled with a laughing； singing； uproarious crowd
that quickly invades every restaurant； CAFE； or chop…house until
their little tables overflow on to the grass and side…walks； and
even into the middle of the streets。 Later in the evening the
open…air concerts and theatres are packed； and every little square
organizes its impromptu ball； the musicians mounted on tables； and
the crowd dancing gayly on the wooden pavement until daybreak。
The next day； Paris becomes from a fashionable point of view；
〃impossible。〃 If you walk through the richer quarters； you will
see only long lines of closed windows。 The approaches to the
railway stations are blocked with cabs piled with trunks and
bicycles。 The 〃great world〃 is fleeing to the seashore or its
CHATEAUX； and Paris will know it no more until January； for the
French are a country…loving race； and since there has been no
court； the aristocracy pass longer and longer periods on their own
estates each year； partly from choice and largely to show their
disdain for the republic and its entertainments。
The shady drives in the park； which only a day or two ago were so
brilliant with smart traps and spring toilets； are become a cool
wilderness； where will meet； perhaps； a few maiden ladies
exercising fat dogs； uninterrupted except by the watering…cart or
by a few stray tourists in cabs。 Now comes a delightful time for
the real amateur of Paris and the country around； which is full of
charming corners wh