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to look when I find myself in company with an American and see my
countrymen unbending to him as to a performing dog。 But in the
case of Mr。 Grant White example were better than precept。 Wyoming
is； after all； more readily accessible to Mr。 White than Boston to
the English； and the New England self…sufficiency no better
justified than the Britannic。
It is so； perhaps； in all countries； perhaps in all； men are most
ignorant of the foreigners at home。 John Bull is ignorant of the
States； he is probably ignorant of India； but considering his
opportunities； he is far more ignorant of countries nearer his own
door。 There is one country； for instance … its frontier not so far
from London； its people closely akin； its language the same in all
essentials with the English … of which I will go bail he knows
nothing。 His ignorance of the sister kingdom cannot be described；
it can only be illustrated by anecdote。 I once travelled with a
man of plausible manners and good intelligence … a University man；
as the phrase goes … a man； besides； who had taken his degree in
life and knew a thing or two about the age we live in。 We were
deep in talk； whirling between Peterborough and London； among other
things； he began to describe some piece of legal injustice he had
recently encountered； and I observed in my innocence that things
were not so in Scotland。 〃I beg your pardon；〃 said he； 〃this is a
matter of law。〃 He had never heard of the Scots law； nor did he
choose to be informed。 The law was the same for the whole country；
he told me roundly； every child knew that。 At last； to settle
matters； I explained to him that I was a member of a Scottish legal
body； and had stood the brunt of an examination in the very law in
question。 Thereupon he looked me for a moment full in the face and
dropped the conversation。 This is a monstrous instance； if you
like； but it does not stand alone in the experience of Scots。
England and Scotland differ； indeed； in law； in history； in
religion； in education； and in the very look of nature and men's
faces； not always widely； but always trenchantly。 Many particulars
that struck Mr。 Grant White； a Yankee； struck me； a Scot； no less
forcibly； he and I felt ourselves foreigners on many common
provocations。 A Scotchman may tramp the better part of Europe and
the United States； and never again receive so vivid an impression
of foreign travel and strange lands and manners as on his first
excursion into England。 The change from a hilly to a level country
strikes him with delighted wonder。 Along the flat horizon there
arise the frequent venerable towers of churches。 He sees at the
end of airy vistas the revolution of the windmill sails。 He may go
where he pleases in the future； he may see Alps； and Pyramids； and
lions； but it will be hard to beat the pleasure of that moment。
There are； indeed； few merrier spectacles than that of many
windmills bickering together in a fresh breeze over a woody
country； their halting alacrity of movement； their pleasant
business； making bread all day with uncouth gesticulations； their
air； gigantically human； as of a creature half alive； put a spirit
of romance into the tamest landscape。 When the Scotch child sees
them first he falls immediately in love； and from that time forward
windmills keep turning in his dreams。 And so； in their degree；
with every feature of the life and landscape。 The warm； habitable
age of towns and hamlets； the green； settled； ancient look of the
country； the lush hedgerows； stiles； and privy path…ways in the
fields； the sluggish； brimming rivers； chalk and smock…frocks；
chimes of bells and the rapid； pertly…sounding English speech …
they are all new to the curiosity； they are all set to English airs
in the child's story that he tells himself at night。 The sharp
edge of novelty wears off； the feeling is scotched； but I doubt
whether it is ever killed。 Rather it keeps returning； ever the
more rarely and strangely； and even in scenes to which you have
been long accustomed suddenly awakes and gives a relish to
enjoyment or heightens the sense of isolation。
One thing especially continues unfamiliar to the Scotchman's eye …
the domestic architecture； the look of streets and buildings； the
quaint； venerable age of many； and the thin walls and warm
colouring of all。 We have； in Scotland； far fewer ancient
buildings； above all in country places； and those that we have are
all of hewn or harled masonry。 Wood has been sparingly used in
their construction； the window…frames are sunken in the wall； not
flat to the front； as in England； the roofs are steeper…pitched；
even a hill farm will have a massy； square； cold and permanent
appearance。 English houses； in comparison； have the look of
cardboard toys； such as a puff might shatter。 And to this the
Scotchman never becomes used。 His eye can never rest consciously
on one of these brick houses … rickles of brick； as he might call
them … or on one of these flat…chested streets； but he is instantly
reminded where he is； and instantly travels back in fancy to his
home。 〃This is no my ain house； I ken by the biggin' o't。〃 And
yet perhaps it is his own； bought with his own money； the key of it
long polished in his pocket； but it has not yet； and never will be；
thoroughly adopted by his imagination； nor does he cease to
remember that； in the whole length and breadth of his native
country； there was no building even distantly resembling it。
But it is not alone in scenery and architecture that we count
England foreign。 The constitution of society； the very pillars of
the empire； surprise and even pain us。 The dull； neglected
peasant； sunk in matter； insolent； gross and servile； makes a
startling contrast with our own long…legged； long…headed；
thoughtful； Bible…quoting ploughman。 A week or two in such a place
as Suffolk leaves the Scotchman gasping。 It seems incredible that
within the boundaries of his own island a class should have been
thus forgotten。 Even the educated and intelligent； who hold our
own opinions and speak in our own words； yet seem to hold them with
a difference or； from another reason； and to speak on all things
with less interest and conviction。 The first shock of English
society is like a cold plunge。 It is possible that the Scot comes
looking for too much； and to be sure his first experiment will be
in the wrong direction。 Yet surely his complaint is grounded；
surely the speech of Englishmen is too often lacking in generous
ardour； the better part of the man too often withheld from the
social commerce； and the contact of mind with mind evaded as with
terror。 A Scotch peasant will talk more liberally out of his own
experience。 He will not put you by with conversational counters
and small jests； he will give you the best of himself； like one
interested in li