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only a Norman； gave way to the Champenois； the duke paid the 30；000 francs； and spent three days in the house； at the rate of 400 francs an hour。
Nodier and I were two explorers。 When we travelled together； as we occasionally did； we went on voyages of discovery； he in search of rare books； I in search of ruins。 He would go into ecstasies over a _Cymbalum Mound_ with margins； and I over a defaced portal。 We had given each other a devil。 He said to me： 〃You are possessed of the demon Ogive。〃 〃And you；〃 I answered； 〃of the demon Elzevir。〃
At Soissons； while I was exploring Saint Jean…des…Vignes； he had discovered； in a suburb； a ragpicker。 The ragpicker's basket is the hyphen between rags and paper； and the ragpicker is the hyphen between the beggar and the philosopher。 Nodier who gave to the poor； and sometimes to philosophers； had entered the ragpicker's abode。 The ragpicker turned out to be a book dealer。 Among the books Nodier noticed a rather thick volume of six or eight hundred pages； printed in Spanish； two columns to a page； badly damaged by worms； and the binding missing from the back。 The ragpicker； asked what he wanted for it； replied； trembling lest the price should be refused： 〃Five francs；〃 which Nodier paid； also trembling； but with joy。 This book was the _Romancero_ complete。 There are only three complete copies of this edition now in existence。 One of these a few years ago sold for 7；500 francs。 Moreover； worms are vying with each other in eating up these three remaining copies。 The peoples； feeders of princes； have something else to do than spend their money to preserve for new editions the legacies of human intellect； and the _Romancero_； being merely an Iliad； has not been reprinted。
During the three days of the coronation there were great crowds in the streets of Rheims； at the Archbishop's palace； and on the promenades along the Vesdre； eager to catch a glimpse of Charles X。 I said to Charles Nodier： 〃Let us go and see his majesty the cathedral。〃
Rheims is a proverb in Gothic Christian art。 One speaks of the 〃nave of Amiens； the bell towers of Chartres； the fa？ade of Rheims。〃 A month before the coronation of Charles X a swarm of masons； perched on ladders and clinging to knotted ropes； spent a week smashing with hammers every bit of jutting sculpture on the fa？ade； for fear a stone might become detached from one of these reliefs and fall on the King's head。 The debris littered the pavement and was swept away。 For a long time I had in my possession a head of Christ that fell in this way。 It was stolen from me in 1851。 This head was unfortunate； broken by a king； it was lost by an exile。
Nodier was an admirable antiquary； and we explored the cathedral from top to bottom； encumbered though it was with scaffolding； painted scenery； and stage side lights。 The nave being only of stone； they had hidden it by an edifice of cardboard； doubtless because the latter bore a greater resemblance to the monarchy of that period。 For the coronation of the King of France they had transformed a church into a theatres and it has since been related； with perfect accuracy； that on arriving at the entrance I asked of the bodyguard on duty： 〃Where is my box？〃
This cathedral of Rheims is beautiful above all cathedrals。 On the fa？ade are kings； on the absis； people being put to the torture by executioners。 Coronation of kings with an accompaniment of victims。 The fa？ade is one of the most magnificent symphonies ever sung by that music； architecture。 One dreams for a long time before this oratorio。 Looking up from the square you see at a giddy height； at the base of the two towers； a row of gigantic statues representing kings of France。 In their hands they hold the sceptre； the sword； the hand of justice； and the globe； and on their heads are antique open crowns with bulging gems。 It is superb and grim。 You push open the bell…ringer's door； climb the winding staircase； 〃the screw of St。 Giles；〃 to the towers； to the high regions of prayer； you look down and the statues are below you。 The row of kings is plunging into the abysm。 You hear the whispering of the enormous bells； which vibrate at the kiss of vague zephyrs from the sky。
One day I gazed down from the top of the tower through an embrasure。 The entire fa？ade sheered straight below me。 I perceived in the depth； on top of a long stone support that extended down the wall directly beneath me to the escarpment； so that its form was lost； a sort of round basin。 Rain…water had collected there and formed a narrow mirror at the bottom； there were also a tuft of grass with flowers in it； and a swallow's nest。 Thus in a space only two feet in diameter were a lake； a garden and a habitationa birds' paradise。 As I gazed the swallow was giving water to her brood。 Round the upper edge of the basin were what looked like crenelles； and between these the swallow had built her nest。 I examined these crenelles。 They had the form of fleurs…de…lys。 The support was a statue。 This happy little world was the stone crown of an old king。 And if God were asked： 〃Of what use was this Lothario； this Philip； this Charles； this Louis； this emperor； this king？〃 God peradventure would reply： 〃He had this statue made and lodged a swallow。〃
The coronation occurred。 This is not the place to describe it。 Besides my recollections of the ceremony of May 27； 1825； have been recounted elsewhere by another； more ably than I could set them forth。
Suffice it to say that it was a radiant day。 God seemed to have given his assent to the fête。 The long clear windowsfor there are no more stained…glass windows at Rheimslet in bright daylight； all the light of May was in the church。 The Archbishop was covered with gilding and the altar with rays。 Marshal de Lauriston； Minister of the King's Household； rejoiced at the sunshine。 He came and went； as busy as could be； and conversed in low tones with Lecointe and Hittorf； the architects。 The fine morning afforded the occasion to say； 〃the sun of the coronation；〃 as one used to say 〃the sun of Austerlitz。〃 And in the resplendent light a profusion of lamps and tapers found means to beam。
At one moment Charles X。； attired in a cherry…coloured simar striped with gold； lay at full length at the Archbishop's feet。 The peers of France on the right； embroidered with gold； beplumed in the Henri IV。 style； and wearing long mantles of velvet and ermine； and the Deputies on the left； in dress…coats of blue cloth with silver fleurs…de…lys on the collars； looked on。
About all the forms of chance were represented there： the Papal benediction by the cardinals； some of whom had witnessed the coronation of Napoleon； victory by the marshals； heredity by the Duke d'Angoulême； dauphin； happiness by M。 de Talleyrand； lame but able to get about； the rising and falling of stocks by M。 de Villèle； joy by the birds that were released and flew away； and the knaves in a pack of playing…cards by the four heralds。
A vast carpet embroidered with fleurs…de…lys； made expressly for the occasion； and called the 〃coronation carpet；〃 covered the old flagstones from one end of the cathedral to the other and concea