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After that； as we drew near to the city； the country being more thickly populated； we no longer clashed。
This is not a guide…book； and I have nothing to tell of that readers would not find better described in their 'Murray。' We put up in an excellent hotel kept by M。 Arago； the brother of the great French astronomer。 The only other travellers in it besides ourselves were the famous dancer Cerito； and her husband the violin virtuoso； St。 Leon。 Luckily for me our English Minister was Mr。 Percy Doyle； whom I had known as ATTACHE at Paris when I was at Larue； and who was a great friend of the De Cubriers。 We were thus provided with many advantages for 'sight…seeing' in and about the city； and also for more distant excursions through credentials from the Mexican authorities。 Under these auspices we visited the silver mines at Guadalajara； Potosi； and Guanajuata。
The life in Mexico city was delightful； after a year's tramp。 The hotel； as I have said； was to us luxurious。 My room under the verandah opened on to a large and beautiful garden partially enclosed on two sides。 As I lay in bed of a morning reading Prescott's 'History of Mexico；' or watching the brilliant humming birds as they darted from flower to flower； and listened to the gentle plash of the fountain； my cup of enjoyment and romance was brimming over。
Just before I left； an old friend of mine arrived from England。 This was Mr。 Joseph Clissold。 He was a schoolfellow of mine at Sheen。 He had pulled in the Cambridge boat； and played in the Cambridge eleven。 He afterwards became a magistrate either in Australia or New Zealand。 He was the best type of the good…natured； level… headed； hard…hitting Englishman。 Curiously enough； as it turned out； the greater part of the only conversation we had （I was leaving the day after he came） was about the brigandage on the road between Mexico and Vera Cruz。 He told me the passengers in the diligence which had brought him up had been warned at Jalapa that the road was infested by robbers； and should the coach be stopped they were on no account to offer resistance； for the robbers would certainly shoot them if they did。
Fred chose to ride down to the coast； I went by coach。 This held six inside and two by the driver。 Three of the inside passengers sat with backs to the horses； the others facing them。 My coach was full； and stifling hot and stuffy it was before we had done with it。 Of the five others two were fat priests； and for twenty hours my place was between them。 But in one way I had my revenge： I carried my loaded rifle between my knees； and a pistol in my belt。 The dismay； the terror； the panic； the protestations； the entreaties and execrations of all the five； kept us at least from ENNUI for many a weary mile。 I doubt whether the two priests ever thumbed their breviaries so devoutly in their lives。 Perhaps that brought us salvation。 We reached Vera Cruz without adventure； and in the autumn of '51 Fred and I landed safely at Southampton。
Two months after I got back； I read an account in the 'Times' of 'Joe' Clissold's return trip from Mexico。 The coach in which he was travelling was stopped by robbers。 Friend Joseph was armed with a double…barrelled smooth…bore loaded with slugs。 He considered this on the whole more suitable than a rifle。 When the captain of the brigands opened the coach door and； pistol in hand； politely proffered his request； Mr。 Joe was quite ready for him； and confided the contents of one barrel to the captain's bosom。 Seeing the fate of their commander； and not knowing what else the dilly might contain； the rest of the band dug spurs into their horses and fled。 But the sturdy oarsman and smart cricketer was too quick for one of them … the horse followed his friends； but the rider stayed with his chief。
CHAPTER XXXIII
THE following winter； my friend； George Cayley； was ordered to the south for his health。 He went to Seville。 I joined him there； and we took lodgings and remained till the spring。 As Cayley published an amusing account of our travels； 'Las Aforjas； or the Bridle Roads of Spain；' as this is more than fifty years ago … before the days of railways and tourists … and as I kept no journal of my own； I will make free use of his。
A few words will show the terms we were on。
I had landed at Cadiz； and had gone up the Guadalquivir in a steamer； whose advent at Seville my friend was on the look… out for。 He describes his impatience for her arrival。 By some mistake he is misinformed as to the time； he is a quarter of an hour late。
'A remnant of passengers yet bustled around the luggage； arguing； struggling and bargaining with a contentious company of porters。 Alas！ H。 was not to be seen among them。 There was still a chance； he might be one of the passengers who had got ashore before my coming down； and I was preparing to rush back to the city to ransack the hotels。 Just then an internal convulsion shook the swarm around the luggage pile； out burst a little Gallego staggering under a huge British portmanteau； and followed by its much desired； and now almost despaired of； proprietor。
'I saw him come bowling up the slope with his familiar gait； evidently unconscious of my presence； and wearing that sturdy and almost hostile demeanour with which a true Briton marches into a strange city through the army of officious importunates who never fail to welcome the true Briton's arrival。 As he passed the barrier he came close to me in the crowd； still without recognising me； for though straight before his nose I was dressed in the costume of the people。 I touched his elbow and he turned upon me with a look of impatient defiance； thinking me one persecutor more。
'How quickly the expression changed； etc。； etc。 We rushed into each other's arms； as much as the many great coats slung over his shoulders； and the deep folds of cloak in which I was enveloped； would mutually permit。 Then； saying more than a thousand things in a breath； or rather in no breath at all； we set off in great glee for my lodgings； forgetting in the excitement the poor little porter who was following at full trot； panting and puffing under the heavy portmanteau。 We got home； but were no calmer。 We dined； but could not eat。 We talked； but the news could not be persuaded to come out quick enough。'
Who has not known what is here described？ Who does not envy the freshness； the enthusiasm； of such bubbling of warm young hearts？ Oh； the pity of it！ if these generous emotions should prove as transient as youth itself。 And then； when one of those young hearts is turned to dust； and one is left to think of it … why then； 'tis not much comfort to reflect that … nothing in the world is commoner。
We got a Spanish master and worked industriously； also picked up all the Andalusian we could； which is as much like pure Castilian as wold…Yorkshire is to English。 I also took lessons on the guitar。 Thus prepared； I imitated my friend and adopted the ordinary costume of the Andalusian peasant： breeches； ornamented with rows of silvered buttons； gaiters； a short jacket