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'But we wasn't going to hang him without a proper trial； and as the trial lasted two hours； it … '
'Two hours！ What did you want two hours for？'
'There was some as wanted to lynch him； and some as wanted him tried by the reg'lar judges of the Crim'nal Court。 One of the best speakers said lynch…law was no law at all； and no innocent man's life was safe with it。 So there was a lot of speakin'； you bet。 By the time it was over it was just daylight； and the majority voted as he should die at onc't。 So they took him to the horse…market； and stood him on a table under the big elm。 I kep' by his side； and when he was getting on the table he ast me to lend him my revolver to shoot the foreman of the jury。 When I wouldn't； he ast me to tie the knot so as it wouldn't slip。 〃It ain't no account； Jim；〃 says I； 〃to talk like that。 You're bound to die； and ef they didn't hang yer I'd shoot yer myself。〃
'〃Well then；〃 says he； 〃gi' me hold of the rope； and I'll show you how little I keer for death。〃 He snatches the cord out o' my hands； pulls hisself out o' reach o' the crowd； and sat cross…legged on the bough。 Half a dozen shooters was raised to fetch him down； but he tied a noose in the rope； put it round his neck； slipped it puty tight； and stood up on the bough and made 'em a speech。 What he mostly said was as he hated 'em all。 He cussed the man he shot； then he cussed the world； then he cussed hisself； and with a terr'ble oath he jumped off the bough； and swung back'ards and for'ards with his neck broke。'
'An Englishman；' I reflected aloud。
He nodded。 'You're a Britisher； I reckon； ain't yer？'
'Yes； why？'
'Wal； you've a puty strong accent。'
'Think so？'
'Wal； I could jest tie a knot in it。'
This is a vulgar and repulsive story。 But it is not fiction； and any picture of Californian life in 1850； without some such faithful touch of its local colour； would be inadequate and misleading。
CHAPTER XXXII
A STEAMER took us down to Acapulco。 It is probably a thriving port now。 When we were there； a few native huts and two or three stone buildings at the edge of the jungle constituted the 'town。' We bought some horses； and hired two men … a Mexican and a Yankee … for our ride to the city of Mexico。 There was at that time nothing but a mule…track； and no public conveyance of any kind。 Nothing could exceed the beauty of the scenery。 Within 160 miles； as the crow flies； one rises up to the city of Mexico some 12；000 feet； with Popocatepetl overhanging it 17；500 feet high。 In this short space one passes from intense tropical heat and vegetation to pines and laurels and the proximity of perpetual snows。 The path in places winds along the brink of precipitous declivities； from the top of which one sees the climatic gradations blending one into another。 So narrow are some of the mountain paths that a mule laden with ore has often one panier overhanging the valley a thousand feet below it。 Constantly in the long trains of animals descending to the coast； a slip of the foot or a charge from behind； for they all come down the steep track with a jolting shuffle； sends mule and its load over the ledge。 We found it very difficult in places to get out of the way in time to let the trains pass。 Flocks of parrots and great macaws screeching and flying about added to the novelty of the scene。
The villages； inhabited by a cross between the original Indians and the Spaniards； are about twenty miles apart。 At one of these we always stayed for the night； sleeping in grass hammocks suspended between the posts of the verandah。 The only travellers we fell in with were a party of four Americans； returning to the Eastern States from California with the gold they had won there。 They had come in our steamer to Acapulco； and had left it a few hours before we did。 As the villages were so far apart we necessarily had to stop at night in the same one。 The second time this happened they； having arrived first； had quartered themselves on the Alcalde or principal personage of the place。 Our guide took us to the same house； and although His Worship； who had a better supply of maize for the horses； and a few more chickens to sell than the other natives； was anxious to accommodate us； the four Americans； a very rough…looking lot and armed to the teeth； wouldn't hear of it； but peremptorily bade us put up elsewhere。 Our own American； who was much afraid of them； obeyed their commands without more ado。 It made not the slightest difference to us； for one grass hammock is as soft as another； and the Alcalde's chickens were as tough as ours。
Before the morning start； two of the diggers； rifles in hand； came over to us and plainly told us they objected to our company。 Fred； with perfect good humour； assured them we had no thought of robbing them； and that as the villages were so far apart we had no choice in the matter。 However； as they wished to travel separate from us； if there should be two villages at all within suitable distances； they could stop at one and we at the other。 There the matter rested。 But our guide was more frightened than ever。 They were four to two； he argued； for neither he nor the Mexican were armed。 And there was no saying； etc。； etc。 。 。 。 In short we had better stay where we were till they got through。 Fred laughed at the fellow's alarm； and told him he might stop if he liked； but we meant to go on。
As usual； when we reached the next stage； the diggers were before us； and when our men began to unsaddle at a hut about fifty yards from where they were feeding their horses； one of them； the biggest blackguard to look at of the lot； and though the fiercest probably the greatest cur； shouted at us to put the saddles on again and 'get out of that。' He had warned us in the morning that they'd had enough of us； and； with a volley of oaths； advised us to be off。 Fred； who was in his shirt…sleeves； listened at first with a look of surprise at such cantankerous unreasonableness； but when the ruffian fell to swear and threaten； he burst into one of his contemptuous guffaws； turned his back and began to feed his horse with a corncob。 Thus insulted； the digger ran into the hut （as I could see） to get his rifle。 I snatched up my own； which I had been using every day to practise at the large iguanas and macaws； and； well protected by my horse； called out as I covered him； 'This is a double…barrelled rifle。 If you raise yours I'll drop you where you stand。' He was forestalled and taken aback。 Probably he meant nothing but bravado。 Still； the situation was a critical one。 Obviously I could not wait till he had shot my friend。 But had it come to shooting there would have been three left； unless my second barrel had disposed of another。 Fortunately the 'boss' of the digging party gauged the gravity of the crisis at a glance； and instead of backing him up as expected； swore at him for a 'derned fool；' and ordered him to have no more to do with us。
After that； as we drew near to the city； the country being more thickly populated； we no longer clashed。
This is not a guide…b