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before one has travelled fifteen hundred miles on the same river … as one may easily do in America … one begins to sigh for the Rhine; or even for a trip from London to Greenwich; with a white…bait dinner at the end of it。
The day after; we descended the Cascades。 They are the beginning of an immense fall in the level; and form a succession of rapids nearly two miles long。 The excitement of this passage is rather too great for pleasure。 It is like being run away with by a 'motor' down a steep hill。 The bow of the canoe is often several feet below the stern; as if about to take a 'header。' The water; in glassy ridges and dark furrows; rushes headlong; and dashes itself madly against the reefs which crop up everywhere。 There is no time; one thinks; to choose a course; even if steerage; which seems absurd; were possible。 One is hurled along at railway speed。 The upreared rock; that a moment ago seemed a hundred yards off; is now under the very bow of the canoe。 One clenches one's teeth; holds one's breath; one's hour is surely come。 But no … a shout from the Indians; a magic stroke of the paddle in the bow; another in the stern; and the dreaded crag is far above out heads; far; far behind; and; for the moment; we are gliding on … undrowned。
At the lower end of the rapids (our Indians refusing to go further); we had to debark。 A settler here was putting up a zinc house for a store。 Two others; with an officer of the Mounted Rifles … the regiment we had left at the Dalles … were staying with him。 They welcomed our arrival; and insisted on our drinking half a dozen of poisonous stuff they called champagne。 There were no chairs or table in the 'house;' nor as yet any floor; and only the beginning of a roof。 We sat on the ground; so that I was able
surreptitiously to make libations with my share; to the earth。
According to my journal: 'In a short time the party began to be a noisy one。 Healths were drunk; toasts proposed; compliments to our respective nationalities paid in the most flattering terms。 The Anglo…Saxon race were destined to conquer the globe。 The English were the greatest nation under the sun … that is to say; they had been。 America; of course; would take the lead in time to come。 We disputed this。 The Americans were certain of it; in fact this was already an accomplished fact。 The big officer … a genuine 〃heavy〃 … wanted to know where the man was that would give him the lie! Wasn't the Mounted Rifles the crack regiment of the United States army? And wasn't the United States army the finest army in the universe? Who that knew anything of history would compare the Peninsular Campaign to the war in Mexico? Talk of Waterloo … Britishers were mighty fond of swaggering about Waterloo! Let 'em look at Chepultapec。 As for Wellington; he couldn't shine nohow with General Scott; nor old Zack neither!'
Then; WE wished for a war; just to let them see what our crack cavalry regiments could do。 Mounted Rifles forsooth! Mounted costermongers! whose trade it was to sell 'nutmegs made of wood; and clocks that wouldn't figure。' Then some pretty forcible profanity was vented; fists were shaken; and the zinc walls were struck; till they resounded like the threatened thunder of artillery。
But Fred's merry laughter diverted the tragic end。 It was agreed that there had been too much tall talk。 Britishers and Americans were not such fools as to quarrel。 Let everybody drink everybody else's health。 A gentleman in the corner (he needed the support of both walls) thought it wasn't good to 'liquor up' too much on an empty stomach; he put it to the house that we should have supper。 The motion was carried NEM。 CON。; and a Dutch cheese was produced with much ECLAT。 Samson coupled the ideas of Dutch cheeses and Yankee hospitality。 This revived the flagging spirit of emulation。 On one side; it was thought that British manners were susceptible of amendment。 Confusion was then respectively drunk to Yankee hospitality; English manners; and … this was an addition of Fred's … to Dutch cheeses。 After which; to change the subject; a song was called for; and a gentleman who shall be nameless; for there was a little mischief in the choice; sang 'Rule Britannia。' Not being encored; the singer drank to the flag that had braved the battle and the breeze for nearly ninety years。 'Here's to Uncle Sam; and his stars and stripes。' The mounted officer rose to his legs (with difficulty) and declared 'that he could not; and would not; hear his country insulted any longer。 He begged to challenge the 〃crowd。〃 He regretted the necessity; but his feelings had been wounded; and he could not … no; he positively could not stand it。' A slight push from Samson proved the fact … the speaker fell; to rise no more。 The rest of the company soon followed his example; and shortly afterwards there was no sound but that of the adjacent rapids。
Early next morning the settler's boat came up; and took us a mile down the river; where we found a larger one to convey us to Fort Vancouver。 The crew were a Maltese sailor and a man who had been in the United States army。 Each had his private opinions as to her management。 Naturally; the Maltese should have been captain; but the soldier was both supercargo and part owner; and though it was blowing hard and the sails were fully large; the foreigner; who was but a poor little creature; had to obey orders。
As the river widened and grew rougher; we were wetted from stem to stern at every plunge; and when it became evident that the soldier could not handle the sails if the Maltese was kept at the helm; the heavy rifleman who was on board; declaring that he knew the river; took upon himself to steer us。 In a few minutes the boat was nearly swamped。 The Maltese prayed and blasphemed in language which no one understood。 The oaths of the soldier were intelligible enough。 The 'heavy;' now alarmed; nervously asked what had better be done。 My advice was to grease the bowsprit; let go the mast; and splice the main brace。 'In another minute or two;' I added; 'you'll steer us all to the bottom。'
Fred; who thought it no time for joking; called the rifleman a 'damned fool;' and authoritatively bade him give up the tiller; saying that I had been in Her Majesty's Navy; and perhaps knew a little more about boats than he did。 To this the other replied that 'he didn't want anyone to learn him; he reckon'd he'd been raised to boating as well as the next man; and he'd be derned if he was going to trust his life to anybody!' Samson; thinking no doubt of his own; took his pipe out of his mouth; and towering over the steersman; flung him like a child on one side。 In an instant I was in his place。
It was a minute or two before the boat had way enough to answer the helm。 By that time we were within a dozen yards of a reef。 Having noticed; however; that the little craft was quick in her stays; I kept her full till the last; put the helm down; and round she spun in a moment。 Before I could thank my stars; the pintle; or hook on which the rudder hangs; broke off。 The tiller w