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tracks of a rolling stone-第50章

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before one  has travelled fifteen hundred miles on the same river … as  one may easily do in America … one begins to sigh for the  Rhine; or even for a trip from London to Greenwich; with a  white…bait dinner at the end of it。

The day after; we descended the Cascades。  They are the  beginning of an immense fall in the level; and form a  succession of rapids nearly two miles long。  The excitement  of this passage is rather too great for pleasure。  It is like  being run away with by a 'motor' down a steep hill。  The bow  of the canoe is often several feet below the stern; as if  about to take a 'header。'  The water; in glassy ridges and  dark furrows; rushes headlong; and dashes itself madly  against the reefs which crop up everywhere。  There is no  time; one thinks; to choose a course; even if steerage; which  seems absurd; were possible。  One is hurled along at railway  speed。  The upreared rock; that a moment ago seemed a hundred  yards off; is now under the very bow of the canoe。  One  clenches one's teeth; holds one's breath; one's hour is  surely come。  But no … a shout from the Indians; a magic  stroke of the paddle in the bow; another in the stern; and  the dreaded crag is far above out heads; far; far behind;  and; for the moment; we are gliding on … undrowned。

At the lower end of the rapids (our Indians refusing to go  further); we had to debark。  A settler here was putting up a  zinc house for a store。  Two others; with an officer of the  Mounted Rifles … the regiment we had left at the Dalles …  were staying with him。  They welcomed our arrival; and  insisted on our drinking half a dozen of poisonous stuff they  called champagne。  There were no chairs or table in the  'house;' nor as yet any floor; and only the beginning of a  roof。  We sat on the ground; so that I was able 

surreptitiously to make libations with my share; to the  earth。

According to my journal:  'In a short time the party began to  be a noisy one。  Healths were drunk; toasts proposed;  compliments to our respective nationalities paid in the most  flattering terms。  The Anglo…Saxon race were destined to  conquer the globe。  The English were the greatest nation  under the sun … that is to say; they had been。  America; of  course; would take the lead in time to come。  We disputed  this。  The Americans were certain of it; in fact this was  already an accomplished fact。  The big officer … a genuine  〃heavy〃 … wanted to know where the man was that would give  him the lie!  Wasn't the Mounted Rifles the crack regiment of  the United States army?  And wasn't the United States army  the finest army in the universe?  Who that knew anything of  history would compare the Peninsular Campaign to the war in  Mexico?  Talk of Waterloo … Britishers were mighty fond of  swaggering about Waterloo!  Let 'em look at Chepultapec。  As  for Wellington; he couldn't shine nohow with General Scott;  nor old Zack neither!'

Then; WE wished for a war; just to let them see what our  crack cavalry regiments could do。  Mounted Rifles forsooth!   Mounted costermongers! whose trade it was to sell 'nutmegs  made of wood; and clocks that wouldn't figure。'  Then some  pretty forcible profanity was vented; fists were shaken; and  the zinc walls were struck; till they resounded like the  threatened thunder of artillery。

But Fred's merry laughter diverted the tragic end。  It was  agreed that there had been too much tall talk。  Britishers  and Americans were not such fools as to quarrel。  Let  everybody drink everybody else's health。  A gentleman in the  corner (he needed the support of both walls) thought it  wasn't good to 'liquor up' too much on an empty stomach; he  put it to the house that we should have supper。  The motion  was carried NEM。 CON。; and a Dutch cheese was produced with  much ECLAT。  Samson coupled the ideas of Dutch cheeses and  Yankee hospitality。  This revived the flagging spirit of  emulation。  On one side; it was thought that British manners  were susceptible of amendment。  Confusion was then  respectively drunk to Yankee hospitality; English manners;  and … this was an addition of Fred's … to Dutch cheeses。   After which; to change the subject; a song was called for;  and a gentleman who shall be nameless; for there was a little  mischief in the choice; sang 'Rule Britannia。'  Not being  encored; the singer drank to the flag that had braved the  battle and the breeze for nearly ninety years。  'Here's to  Uncle Sam; and his stars and stripes。'  The mounted officer  rose to his legs (with difficulty) and declared 'that he  could not; and would not; hear his country insulted any  longer。  He begged to challenge the 〃crowd。〃  He regretted  the necessity; but his feelings had been wounded; and he  could not … no; he positively could not stand it。'  A slight  push from Samson proved the fact … the speaker fell; to rise  no more。  The rest of the company soon followed his example;  and shortly afterwards there was no sound but that of the  adjacent rapids。

Early next morning the settler's boat came up; and took us a  mile down the river; where we found a larger one to convey us  to Fort Vancouver。  The crew were a Maltese sailor and a man  who had been in the United States army。  Each had his private  opinions as to her management。  Naturally; the Maltese should  have been captain; but the soldier was both supercargo and  part owner; and though it was blowing hard and the sails were  fully large; the foreigner; who was but a poor little  creature; had to obey orders。

As the river widened and grew rougher; we were wetted from  stem to stern at every plunge; and when it became evident  that the soldier could not handle the sails if the Maltese  was kept at the helm; the heavy rifleman who was on board;  declaring that he knew the river; took upon himself to steer  us。  In a few minutes the boat was nearly swamped。  The  Maltese prayed and blasphemed in language which no one  understood。  The oaths of the soldier were intelligible  enough。  The 'heavy;' now alarmed; nervously asked what had  better be done。  My advice was to grease the bowsprit; let go  the mast; and splice the main brace。  'In another minute or  two;' I added; 'you'll steer us all to the bottom。'

Fred; who thought it no time for joking; called the rifleman  a 'damned fool;' and authoritatively bade him give up the  tiller; saying that I had been in Her Majesty's Navy; and  perhaps knew a little more about boats than he did。  To this  the other replied that 'he didn't want anyone to learn him;  he reckon'd he'd been raised to boating as well as the next  man; and he'd be derned if he was going to trust his life to  anybody!'  Samson; thinking no doubt of his own; took his  pipe out of his mouth; and towering over the steersman; flung  him like a child on one side。  In an instant I was in his  place。

It was a minute or two before the boat had way enough to  answer the helm。  By that time we were within a dozen yards  of a reef。  Having noticed; however; that the little craft  was quick in her stays; I kept her full till the last; put  the helm down; and round she spun in a moment。  Before I  could thank my stars; the pintle; or hook on which the rudder  hangs; broke off。  The tiller w
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