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it was wanted for use； and was consequently the first plunder of
needy rapacity。
The chancel of the nuns' chapel is covered with an arch of stone；
to which time has done no injury； and a small apartment
communicating with the choir； on the north side； like the chapter…
house in cathedrals； roofed with stone in the same manner； is
likewise entire。
In one of the churches was a marble altar； which the superstition
of the inhabitants has destroyed。 Their opinion was； that a
fragment of this stone was a defence against shipwrecks； fire； and
miscarriages。 In one corner of the church the bason for holy water
is yet unbroken。
The cemetery of the nunnery was； till very lately； regarded with
such reverence； that only women were buried in it。 These reliques
of veneration always produce some mournful pleasure。 I could have
forgiven a great injury more easily than the violation of this
imaginary sanctity。
South of the chapel stand the walls of a large room； which was
probably the hall； or refectory of the nunnery。 This apartment is
capable of repair。 Of the rest of the convent there are only
fragments。
Besides the two principal churches； there are； I think； five
chapels yet standing； and three more remembered。 There are also
crosses； of which two bear the names of St。 John and St。 Matthew。
A large space of ground about these consecrated edifices is covered
with gravestones； few of which have any inscription。 He that
surveys it； attended by an insular antiquary； may be told where the
Kings of many nations are buried； and if he loves to sooth his
imagination with the thoughts that naturally rise in places where
the great and the powerful lie mingled with the dust； let him
listen in submissive silence； for if he asks any questions； his
delight is at an end。
Iona has long enjoyed； without any very credible attestation； the
honour of being reputed the cemetery of the Scottish Kings。 It is
not unlikely； that； when the opinion of local sanctity was
prevalent； the Chieftains of the Isles； and perhaps some of the
Norwegian or Irish princes were reposited in this venerable
enclosure。 But by whom the subterraneous vaults are peopled is now
utterly unknown。 The graves are very numerous； and some of them
undoubtedly contain the remains of men； who did not expect to be so
soon forgotten。
Not far from this awful ground； may be traced the garden of the
monastery： the fishponds are yet discernible； and the aqueduct；
which supplied them； is still in use。
There remains a broken building； which is called the Bishop's
house； I know not by what authority。 It was once the residence of
some man above the common rank； for it has two stories and a
chimney。 We were shewn a chimney at the other end； which was only
a nich； without perforation； but so much does antiquarian
credulity； or patriotick vanity prevail； that it was not much more
safe to trust the eye of our instructor than the memory。
There is in the Island one house more； and only one； that has a
chimney： we entered it； and found it neither wanting repair nor
inhabitants； but to the farmers； who now possess it； the chimney is
of no great value； for their fire was made on the floor； in the
middle of the room； and notwithstanding the dignity of their
mansion； they rejoiced； like their neighbours； in the comforts of
smoke。
It is observed； that ecclesiastical colleges are always in the most
pleasant and fruitful places。 While the world allowed the monks
their choice； it is surely no dishonour that they chose well。 This
Island is remarkably fruitful。 The village near the churches is
said to contain seventy families； which； at five in a family； is
more than a hundred inhabitants to a mile。 There are perhaps other
villages： yet both corn and cattle are annually exported。
But the fruitfulness of Iona is now its whole prosperity。 The
inhabitants are remarkably gross； and remarkably neglected： I know
not if they are visited by any Minister。 The Island； which was
once the metropolis of learning and piety； has now no school for
education； nor temple for worship； only two inhabitants that can
speak English； and not one that can write or read。
The people are of the clan of Maclean； and though Sir Allan had not
been in the place for many years； he was received with all the
reverence due to their Chieftain。 One of them being sharply
reprehended by him； for not sending him some rum； declared after
his departure； in Mr。 Boswell's presence； that he had no design of
disappointing him； 'for；' said he； 'I would cut my bones for him；
and if he had sent his dog for it； he should have had it。'
When we were to depart； our boat was left by the ebb at a great
distance from the water； but no sooner did we wish it afloat； than
the islanders gathered round it； and； by the union of many hands；
pushed it down the beach； every man who could contribute his help
seemed to think himself happy in the opportunity of being； for a
moment； useful to his Chief。
We now left those illustrious ruins； by which Mr。 Boswell was much
affected； nor would I willingly be thought to have looked upon them
without some emotion。 Perhaps； in the revolutions of the world；
Iona may be sometime again the instructress of the Western Regions。
It was no long voyage to Mull； where； under Sir Allan's protection；
we landed in the evening； and were entertained for the night by Mr。
Maclean； a Minister that lives upon the coast； whose elegance of
conversation； and strength of judgment； would make him conspicuous
in places of greater celebrity。 Next day we dined with Dr。
Maclean； another physician； and then travelled on to the house of a
very powerful Laird； Maclean of Lochbuy； for in this country every
man's name is Maclean。
Where races are thus numerous； and thus combined； none but the
Chief of a clan is addressed by his name。 The Laird of Dunvegan is
called Macleod； but other gentlemen of the same family are
denominated by the places where they reside； as Raasa； or Talisker。
The distinction of the meaner people is made by their Christian
names。 In consequence of this practice； the late Laird of
Macfarlane； an eminent genealogist； considered himself as
disrespectfully treated； if the common addition was applied to him。
Mr。 Macfarlane； said he； may with equal propriety be said to many；
but I； and I only； am Macfarlane。
Our afternoon journey was through a country of such gloomy
desolation； that Mr。 Boswell thought no part of the Highlands
equally terrifick； yet we came without any difficulty； at evening；
to Lochbuy； where we found a true Highland Laird； rough and
haughty； and tenacious of his dignity； who； hearing my name；
inquired whether I was of the Johnstons of Glencroe； or of
Ardnamurchan。
Lochbuy has； like the other insular Chieftains； quitted the castle
that sheltered his ancestors； and lives near it； in a mansion not
very spacious or splendid。 I have seen no houses in the Islands
much to be envied for convenience or magnificence； yet they bare
testimony to the progress of arts and civility； as they shew that
rapine and surprise are no longer dreaded； and are much more
commodious than the anc