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remarkable spectacle； does not suppose； that the traces will soon
vanish from his mind； and having commonly no great convenience for
writing； defers the description to a time of more leisure； and
better accommodation。
He who has not made the experiment； or who is not accustomed to
require rigorous accuracy from himself； will scarcely believe how
much a few hours take from certainty of knowledge； and distinctness
of imagery； how the succession of objects will be broken； how
separate parts will be confused； and how many particular features
and discriminations will be compressed and conglobated into one
gross and general idea。
To this dilatory notation must be imputed the false relations of
travellers； where there is no imaginable motive to deceive。 They
trusted to memory； what cannot be trusted safely but to the eye；
and told by guess what a few hours before they had known with
certainty。 Thus it was that Wheeler and Spon described with
irreconcilable contrariety things which they surveyed together； and
which both undoubtedly designed to show as they saw them。
When we had satisfied our curiosity in the cave； so far as our
penury of light permitted us； we clambered again to our boat； and
proceeded along the coast of Mull to a headland； called Atun；
remarkable for the columnar form of the rocks； which rise in a
series of pilasters； with a degree of regularity； which Sir Allan
thinks not less worthy of curiosity than the shore of Staffa。
Not long after we came to another range of black rocks； which had
the appearance of broken pilasters； set one behind another to a
great depth。 This place was chosen by Sir Allan for our dinner。
We were easily accommodated with seats； for the stones were of all
heights； and refreshed ourselves and our boatmen； who could have no
other rest till we were at Icolmkill。
The evening was now approaching； and we were yet at a considerable
distance from the end of our expedition。 We could therefore stop
no more to make remarks in the way； but set forward with some
degree of eagerness。 The day soon failed us； and the moon
presented a very solemn and pleasing scene。 The sky was clear； so
that the eye commanded a wide circle： the sea was neither still
nor turbulent： the wind neither silent nor loud。 We were never
far from one coast or another； on which； if the weather had become
violent； we could have found shelter； and therefore contemplated at
ease the region through which we glided in the tranquillity of the
night； and saw now a rock and now an island grow gradually
conspicuous and gradually obscure。 I committed the fault which I
have just been censuring； in neglecting； as we passed； to note the
series of this placid navigation。
We were very near an Island； called Nun's Island； perhaps from an
ancient convent。 Here is said to have been dug the stone that was
used in the buildings of Icolmkill。 Whether it is now inhabited we
could not stay to inquire。
At last we came to Icolmkill； but found no convenience for landing。
Our boat could not be forced very near the dry ground； and our
Highlanders carried us over the water。
We were now treading that illustrious Island； which was once the
luminary of the Caledonian regions； whence savage clans and roving
barbarians derived the benefits of knowledge； and the blessings of
religion。 To abstract the mind from all local emotion would be
impossible； if it were endeavoured； and would be foolish； if it
were possible。 Whatever withdraws us from the power of our senses；
whatever makes the past； the distant； or the future predominate
over the present； advances us in the dignity of thinking beings。
Far from me and from my friends； be such frigid philosophy as may
conduct us indifferent and unmoved over any ground which has been
dignified by wisdom； bravery； or virtue。 That man is little to be
envied； whose patriotism would not gain force upon the plain of
Marathon； or whose piety would not grow warmer among the ruins of
Iona！
We came too late to visit monuments： some care was necessary for
ourselves。 Whatever was in the Island； Sir Allan could command；
for the inhabitants were Macleans； but having little they could not
give us much。 He went to the headman of the Island； whom Fame； but
Fame delights in amplifying； represents as worth no less than fifty
pounds。 He was perhaps proud enough of his guests； but ill
prepared for our entertainment； however； he soon produced more
provision than men not luxurious require。 Our lodging was next to
be provided。 We found a barn well stocked with hay； and made our
beds as soft as we could。
In the morning we rose and surveyed the place。 The churches of the
two convents are both standing； though unroofed。 They were built
of unhewn stone； but solid； and not inelegant。 I brought away rude
measures of the buildings； such as I cannot much trust myself；
inaccurately taken； and obscurely noted。 Mr。 Pennant's
delineations； which are doubtless exact； have made my unskilful
description less necessary。
The episcopal church consists of two parts； separated by the
belfry； and built at different times。 The original church had；
like others； the altar at one end； and tower at the other： but as
it grew too small； another building of equal dimension was added；
and the tower then was necessarily in the middle。
That these edifices are of different ages seems evident。 The arch
of the first church is Roman； being part of a circle； that of the
additional building is pointed； and therefore Gothick； or
Saracenical； the tower is firm； and wants only to be floored and
covered。
Of the chambers or cells belonging to the monks； there are some
walls remaining； but nothing approaching to a complete apartment。
The bottom of the church is so incumbered with mud and rubbish；
that we could make no discoveries of curious inscriptions； and what
there are have been already published。 The place is said to be
known where the black stones lie concealed； on which the old
Highland Chiefs； when they made contracts and alliances； used to
take the oath； which was considered as more sacred than any other
obligation； and which could not be violated without the blackest
infamy。 In those days of violence and rapine； it was of great
importance to impress upon savage minds the sanctity of an oath； by
some particular and extraordinary circumstances。 They would not
have recourse to the black stones； upon small or common occasions；
and when they had established their faith by this tremendous
sanction； inconstancy and treachery were no longer feared。
The chapel of the nunnery is now used by the inhabitants as a kind
of general cow…house； and the bottom is consequently too miry for
examination。 Some of the stones which covered the later abbesses
have inscriptions； which might yet be read； if the chapel were
cleansed。 The roof of this； as of all the other buildings； is
totally destroyed； not only because timber quickly decays when it
is neglected； but because in an island utterly destitute of wood；
it was wanted for use； and was consequently the first plunder of
needy rapacity。
The chancel of the nuns' chapel is covered with an