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had little trade and little money； is no valid apology； for
plantation is the least expensive of all methods of improvement。
To drop a seed into the ground can cost nothing； and the trouble is
not great of protecting the young plant； till it is out of danger；
though it must be allowed to have some difficulty in places like
these； where they have neither wood for palisades； nor thorns for
hedges。
Our way was over the Firth of Tay； where； though the water was not
wide； we paid four shillings for ferrying the chaise。 In Scotland
the necessaries of life are easily procured； but superfluities and
elegancies are of the same price at least as in England； and
therefore may be considered as much dearer。
We stopped a while at Dundee； where I remember nothing remarkable；
and mounting our chaise again； came about the close of the day to
Aberbrothick。
The monastery of Aberbrothick is of great renown in the history of
Scotland。 Its ruins afford ample testimony of its ancient
magnificence： Its extent might； I suppose； easily be found by
following the walls among the grass and weeds； and its height is
known by some parts yet standing。 The arch of one of the gates is
entire； and of another only so far dilapidated as to diversify the
appearance。 A square apartment of great loftiness is yet standing；
its use I could not conjecture； as its elevation was very
disproportionate to its area。 Two corner towers； particularly
attracted our attention。 Mr。 Boswell； whose inquisitiveness is
seconded by great activity； scrambled in at a high window； but
found the stairs within broken； and could not reach the top。 Of
the other tower we were told that the inhabitants sometimes climbed
it； but we did not immediately discern the entrance； and as the
night was gathering upon us； thought proper to desist。 Men skilled
in architecture might do what we did not attempt： They might
probably form an exact ground…plot of this venerable edifice。 They
may from some parts yet standing conjecture its general form； and
perhaps by comparing it with other buildings of the same kind and
the same age； attain an idea very near to truth。 I should scarcely
have regretted my journey； had it afforded nothing more than the
sight of Aberbrothick。
MONTROSE
Leaving these fragments of magnificence； we travelled on to
Montrose； which we surveyed in the morning； and found it well
built； airy； and clean。 The townhouse is a handsome fabrick with a
portico。 We then went to view the English chapel； and found a
small church； clean to a degree unknown in any other part of
Scotland； with commodious galleries； and what was yet less
expected； with an organ。
At our inn we did not find a reception such as we thought
proportionate to the commercial opulence of the place； but Mr。
Boswell desired me to observe that the innkeeper was an Englishman；
and I then defended him as well as I could。
When I had proceeded thus far； I had opportunities of observing
what I had never heard； that there are many beggars in Scotland。
In Edinburgh the proportion is； I think； not less than in London；
and in the smaller places it is far greater than in English towns
of the same extent。 It must； however； be allowed that they are not
importunate； nor clamorous。 They solicit silently； or very
modestly； and therefore though their behaviour may strike with more
force the heart of a stranger； they are certainly in danger of
missing the attention of their countrymen。 Novelty has always some
power； an unaccustomed mode of begging excites an unaccustomed
degree of pity。 But the force of novelty is by its own nature soon
at an end； the efficacy of outcry and perseverance is permanent and
certain。
The road from Montrose exhibited a continuation of the same
appearances。 The country is still naked； the hedges are of stone；
and the fields so generally plowed that it is hard to imagine where
grass is found for the horses that till them。 The harvest； which
was almost ripe； appeared very plentiful。
Early in the afternoon Mr。 Boswell observed that we were at no
great distance from the house of lord Monboddo。 The magnetism of
his conversation easily drew us out of our way； and the
entertainment which we received would have been a sufficient
recompense for a much greater deviation。
The roads beyond Edinburgh； as they are less frequented； must be
expected to grow gradually rougher； but they were hitherto by no
means incommodious。 We travelled on with the gentle pace of a
Scotch driver； who having no rivals in expedition； neither gives
himself nor his horses unnecessary trouble。 We did not affect the
impatience we did not feel； but were satisfied with the company of
each other as well riding in the chaise； as sitting at an inn。 The
night and the day are equally solitary and equally safe； for where
there are so few travellers； why should there be robbers。
ABERDEEN
We came somewhat late to Aberdeen； and found the inn so full； that
we had some difficulty in obtaining admission； till Mr。 Boswell
made himself known： His name overpowered all objection； and we
found a very good house and civil treatment。
I received the next day a very kind letter from Sir Alexander
Gordon； whom I had formerly known in London； and after a cessation
of all intercourse for near twenty years met here professor of
physic in the King's College。 Such unexpected renewals of
acquaintance may be numbered among the most pleasing incidents of
life。
The knowledge of one professor soon procured me the notice of the
rest； and I did not want any token of regard； being conducted
wherever there was any thing which I desired to see； and
entertained at once with the novelty of the place； and the kindness
of communication。
To write of the cities of our own island with the solemnity of
geographical description； as if we had been cast upon a newly
discovered coast； has the appearance of very frivolous ostentation；
yet as Scotland is little known to the greater part of those who
may read these observations； it is not superfluous to relate； that
under the name of Aberdeen are comprised two towns standing about a
mile distant from each other； but governed； I think； by the same
magistrates。
Old Aberdeen is the ancient episcopal city； in which are still to
be seen the remains of the cathedral。 It has the appearance of a
town in decay； having been situated in times when commerce was yet
unstudied； with very little attention to the commodities of the
harbour。
New Aberdeen has all the bustle of prosperous trade； and all the
shew of increasing opulence。 It is built by the water…side。 The
houses are large and lofty； and the streets spacious and clean。
They build almost wholly with the granite used in the new pavement
of the streets of London； which is well known not to want hardness；
yet they shape it easily。 It is beautiful and must be very
lasting。
What particular parts of commerce are chiefly exercised by the
merchants of Aberdeen； I have not inquired。 The manufacture which
forces itself upon a stranger's eye is that of knit…stockings； on
which the women of the lower class are visibly employed。
In ea