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in violet； in compliment to the Emperor whose mourning they put on。
Most of them had fine tricolor hangings with appropriate inscriptions
to the glory of the French arms。
All along the Champs Elysees were urns of plaster…of…Paris destined
to contain funeral incense and flames； columns decorated with huge
flags of blue； red； and white； embroidered with shining crowns；
eagles； and N's in gilt paper； and statues of plaster representing
Nymphs； Triumphs； Victories； or other female personages； painted in
oil so as to represent marble。 Real marble could have had no better
effect； and the appearance of the whole was lively and picturesque
in the extreme。 On each pillar was a buckler； of the color of
bronze； bearing the name and date of a battle in gilt letters： you
had to walk through a mile…long avenue of these glorious
reminiscences； telling of spots where； in the great imperial days；
throats had been victoriously cut。
As we passed down the avenue； several troops of soldiers met us： the
garde…muncipale a cheval； in brass helmets and shining jack…boots；
noble…looking men； large； on large horses； the pick of the old army；
as I have heard； and armed for the special occupation of peace…
keeping： not the most glorious； but the best part of the soldier's
duty； as I fancy。 Then came a regiment of Carabineers； one of
Infantrylittle； alert； brown…faced； good…humored men； their band
at their head playing sounding marches。 These were followed by a
regiment or detachment of the Municipals on foottwo or three
inches taller than the men of the Line； and conspicuous for their
neatness and discipline。 By…and…by came a squadron or so of
dragoons of the National Guards： they are covered with straps；
buckles； aguillettes； and cartouche…boxes； and make under their
tricolor cock's…plumes a show sufficiently warlike。 The point which
chiefly struck me on beholding these military men of the National
Guard and the Line； was the admirable manner in which they bore a
cold that seemed to me as sharp as the weather in the Russian
retreat； through which cold the troops were trotting without
trembling and in the utmost cheerfulness and good…humor。 An aide…
de…camp galloped past in white pantaloons。 By heavens！ it made me
shudder to look at him。
With this profound reflection； we turned away to the right towards
the hanging…bridge （where we met a detachment of young men of the
Ecole de l'Etat Major； fine…looking lads； but sadly disfigured by
the wearing of stays or belts； that make the waists of the French
dandies of a most absurd tenuity）； and speedily passed into the
avenue of statues leading up to the Invalides。 All these were
statues of warriors from Ney to Charlemagne； modelled in clay for
the nonce； and placed here to meet the corpse of the greatest
warrior of all。 Passing these； we had to walk to a little door at
the back of the Invalides； where was a crowd of persons plunged in
the deepest mourning； and pushing for places in the chapel within。
The chapel is spacious and of no great architectural pretensions；
but was on this occasion gorgeously decorated in honor of the great
person to whose body it was about to give shelter。
We had arrived at nine； the ceremony was not to begin； they said；
till two： we had five hours before us to see all that from our
places could be seen。
We saw that the roof； up to the first lines of architecture； was
hung with violet； beyond this with black。 We saw N's； eagles； bees；
laurel wreaths； and other such imperial emblems； adorning every nook
and corner of the edifice。 Between the arches； on each side of the
aisle； were painted trophies； on which were written the names of
some of Napoleon's Generals and of their principal deeds of arms
and not their deeds of arms alone； pardi； but their coats of arms
too。 O stars and garters！ but this is too much。 What was Ney's
paternal coat； prithee； or honest Junot's quarterings； or the
venerable escutcheon of King Joachim's father； the innkeeper？
You and I； dear Miss Smith； know the exact value of heraldic
bearings。 We know that though the greatest pleasure of all is to
ACT like a gentleman； it is a pleasure； nay a merit； to BE oneto
come of an old stock； to have an honorable pedigree； to be able to
say that centuries back our fathers had gentle blood； and to us
transmitted the same。 There IS a good in gentility： the man who
questions it is envious； or a coarse dullard not able to perceive
the difference between high breeding and low。 One has in the same
way heard a man brag that he did not know the difference between
wines； not hegive him a good glass of port； and he would pitch all
your claret to the deuce。 My love； men often brag about their own
dulness in this way。
In the matter of gentlemen； democrats cry； 〃Psha！ Give us one of
Nature's gentlemen； and hang your aristocrats。〃 And so indeed
Nature does make SOME gentlemena few here and there。 But Art
makes most。 Good birth； that is； good handsome well…formed fathers
and mothers； nice cleanly nursery…maids； good meals； good physicians；
good education； few cares； pleasant easy habits of life； and
luxuries not too great or enervating； but only refininga course of
these going on for a few generations are the best gentleman…makers
in the world； and beat Nature hollow。
If； respected Madam； you say that there is something BETTER than
gentility in this wicked world； and that honesty and personal wealth
are more valuable than all the politeness and high…breeding that
ever wore red…heeled pumps； knights' spurs； or Hoby's boots；
Titmarsh for one is never going to say you nay。 If you even go so
far as to say that the very existence of this super…genteel society
among us； from the slavish respect that we pay to it； from the
dastardly manner in which we attempt to imitate its airs and ape its
vices； goes far to destroy honesty of intercourse； to make us meanly
ashamed of our natural affections and honest； harmless usages； and
so does a great deal more harm than it is possible it can do good by
its exampleperhaps； Madam； you speak with some sort of reason。
Potato myself； I can't help seeing that the tulip yonder has the
best place in the garden； and the most sunshine； and the most water；
and the best tendingand not liking him over well。 But I can't
help acknowledging that Nature has given him a much finer dress than
ever I can hope to have； and of this； at least； must give him the
benefit。
Or say； we are so many cocks and hens； my dear （sans arriere
pensee）； with our crops pretty full； our plumes pretty sleek； decent
picking here and there in the straw…yard； and tolerable snug
roosting in the barn： yonder on the terrace； in the sun； walks
Peacock； stretching his proud neck； squealing every now and then in
the most pert fashionable voice and flaunting his great supercilious
dandified tail。 Don't let us be too angry； my dear； with the
useless； haughty； insolent creature；