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travels through france and italy-第89章

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; theatres; thermae; circi; public  and private walks and gardens; where very few; if any; of this  great number lodged; that by far the greater part of those  inhabitants were slaves and poor people; who did not enjoy the  conveniencies of life; and that the use of linen was scarce  known; we must naturally conclude they were strangely crouded  together; and that in general they were a very frowzy generation。  That they were crouded together appears from the height of their  houses; which the poet Rutilius compared to towers made for  scaling heaven。 In order to remedy this inconvenience; Augustus  Caesar published a decree; that for the future no houses should  be built above seventy feet high; which; at a moderate  computation; might make six stories。 But what seems to prove;  beyond all dispute; that the antient Romans were dirty creatures;  are these two particulars。 Vespasian laid a tax upon urine and  ordure; on pretence of being at a great expence in clearing the  streets from such nuisances; an imposition which amounted to about  fourteen pence a year for every individual; and when Heliogabalus  ordered all the cobwebs of the city and suburbs to be collected;  they were found to weigh ten thousand pounds。 This was intended  as a demonstration of the great number of inhabitants; but it was  a proof of their dirt; rather than of their populosity。 I might  likewise add; the delicate custom of taking vomits at each  other's houses; when they were invited to dinner; or supper; that  they might prepare their stomachs for gormandizing; a beastly  proof of their nastiness as well as gluttony。 Horace; in his  description of the banquet of Nasiedenus; says; when the canopy;  under which they sat; fell down; it brought along with it as much  dirt as is raised by a hard gale of wind in dry weather。

              trahentia pulveris atri;  Quantum non aquilo Campanis excitat agris。

Such clouds of dust revolving in its train  As Boreas whirls along the level plain。

I might observe; that the streets were often encumbered with the  putrefying carcasses of criminals; who had been dragged through  them by the heels; and precipitated from the Scalae Gemoniae; or  Tarpeian rock; before they were thrown into the Tyber; which was  the general receptacle of the cloaca maxima and all the filth of  Rome: besides; the bodies of all those who made away with  themselves; without sufficient cause; of such as were condemned  for sacrilege; or killed by thunder; were left unburned and  unburied; to rot above ground。

I believe the moderns retain more of the customs of antient  Romans; than is generally imagined。 When I first saw the infants  at the enfans trouves in Paris; so swathed with bandages; that  the very sight of them made my eyes water; I little dreamed; that  the prescription of the antients could be pleaded for this  custom; equally shocking and absurd: but in the Capitol at Rome;  I met with the antique statue of a child swaddled exactly in the  same manner; rolled up like an Aegyptian mummy from the feet。 The  circulation of the blood; in such a case; must be obstructed on  the whole surface of the body; and nothing be at liberty but the  head; which is the only part of the child that ought to be  confined。 Is it not surprising that common sense should not point  out; even to the most ignorant; that those accursed bandages must  heat the tender infant into a fever; must hinder the action of  the muscles; and the play of the joints; so necessary to health  and nutrition; and that while the refluent blood is obstructed in  the veins; which run on the surface of the body; the arteries;  which lie deep; without the reach of compression; are continually  pouring their contents into the head; where the blood meets with  no resistance? The vessels of the brain are naturally lax; and  the very sutures of the skull are yet unclosed。 What are the  consequences of this cruel swaddling? the limbs are wasted; the  joints grow rickety; the brain is compressed; and a  hydrocephalus; with a great head and sore eyes; ensues。 I take  this abominable practice to be one great cause of the bandy legs;  diminutive bodies; and large heads; so frequent in the south of  France; and in Italy。

I was no less surprised to find the modern fashion of curling the  hair; borrowed in a great measure from the coxcombs and coquettes  of antiquity。 I saw a bust of Nero in the gallery at Florence;  the hair represented in rows of buckles; like that of a French  petit…maitre; conformable to the picture drawn of him by  Suetonius。 Circa cultum adeo pudendum; ut coman semper in gradus  formatam peregrinatione achaica; etiam pene verticem sumpserit;  So very finical in his dress; that he wore his hair in the Greek  fashion; curled in rows almost to the crown of his head。 I was  very sorry however to find that this foppery came from Greece。 As  for Otho; he wore a galericulum; or tour; on account of thin  hair; propter raritatem capillorum。 He had no right to imitate  the example of Julius Caesar; who concealed his bald head with a  wreath of laurel。 But there is a bust in the Capitol of Julia  Pia; the second wife of Septimius Severus; with a moveable  peruke; dressed exactly in the fashionable mode; with this  difference; that there is no part of it frizzled; nor is there  any appearance of pomatum and powder。 These improvements the  beau…monde have borrowed from the natives of the Cape of Good  Hope。

Modern Rome does not cover more than one…third of the space  within the walls; and those parts that were most frequented of  old are now intirely abandoned。 From the Capitol to the Coliseo;  including the Forum Romanum and Boarium; there is nothing intire  but one or two churches; built with the fragments of ancient  edifices。 You descend from the Capitol between the remaining  pillars of two temples; the pedestals and part of the shafts sunk  in the rubbish: then passing through the triumphal arch of  Septimius Severus; you proceed along the foot of Mons Palatinus;  which stands on your right hand; quite covered with the ruins of  the antient palace belonging to the Roman emperors; and at the  foot of it; there are some beautiful detached pillars still  standing。 On the left you see the remains of the Templum Pacis;  which seems to have been the largest and most magnificent of all  the temples in Rome。 It was built and dedicated by the emperor  Vespasian; who brought into it all the treasure and precious  vessels which he found in the temple of Jerusalem。 The columns of  the portico he removed from Nero's golden house; which he  levelled with the ground。 This temple was likewise famous for its  library; mentioned by Aulus Gellius; Further on; is the arch of  Constantine on the right; a most noble piece of architecture;  almost entire; with the remains of the Meta Sudans before it; and  fronting you; the noble ruins of that vast amphitheatre; called  the Colossaeum; now Coliseo; which has been dismantled and  dilapidated by the Gothic popes and princes of modern Rome; to  build and adorn their paultry palaces。 Behind the amphitheatre  were the thermae of the same emperor Titus Vespasian。 In the same  quarter was the Circus Maximus; and the whole space from hence on 
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