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with damask; striped silk; painted cloths; tapestry; or printed linnen。 All the doors; as well as the windows; consist of folding leaves。 As there is no wainscot in the rooms; which are divided by stone partitions and the floors and cieling are covered with brick and stucco; fires are of much less dreadful consequence here than in our country。 Wainscot would afford harbour for bugs: besides; white walls have a better effect in this hot climate。 The beds commonly used in this place; and all over Italy; consist of a paillasse; with one or two mattrasses; laid upon planks; supported by two wooden benches。 Instead of curtains there is a couziniere or mosquito net; made of a kind of gauze; that opens and contracts occasionally; and incloses the place where you lie: persons of condition; however; have also bedsteads and curtains; but these last are never used in the summer。
In these countries; people of all ranks dine exactly at noon; and this is the time I seize in winter; for making my daily tour of the streets and ramparts; which at all other hours of the day are crowded with men; women; children and beasts of burthen。 The rampart is the common road for carriages of all kinds。 I think there are two private coaches in Nice; besides that of the commandant: but there are sedan chairs; which may be had at a reasonable rate。 When I bathed in the summer; I paid thirty sols; equal to eighteen…pence; for being carried to and from the bathing place; which was a mile from my own house。
Now I am speaking of bathing; it may not be amiss to inform you that though there is a fine open beach; extending several miles to the westward of Nice; those who cannot swim ought to bathe with great precaution; as the sea is very deep; and the descent very abrupt from within a yard or two of the water's edge。 The people here were much surprised when I began to bathe in the beginning of May。 They thought it very strange; that a man seemingly consumptive should plunge into the sea; especially when the weather was so cold; and some of the doctors prognosticated immediate death。 But; when it was perceived that I grew better in consequence of the bath; some of the Swiss officers tried the same experiment; and in a few days; our example was followed by several inhabitants of Nice。 There is; however; no convenience for this operation; from the benefit of which the fair sex must be intirely excluded; unless they lay aside all regard to decorum; for the shore is always lined with fishing…boats; and crouded with people。 If a lady should be at the expence of having a tent pitched on the beach where she might put on and of her bathing…dress; she could not pretend to go into the sea without proper attendants; nor could she possibly plunge headlong into the water; which is the most effectual; and least dangerous way of bathing。 All that she can do is to have the sea…water brought into her house; and make use of a bathing…tub; which may be made according to her own; or physician's direction。
What further I have to say of this climate and country; you shall have in my next; and then you will be released from a subject; which I am afraid has been but too circumstantially handled by Sir; Your very humble servant。
LETTER XXIV
NICE; January 4; 1765。
DEAR SIR。;The constitution of this climate may be pretty well ascertained; from the inclosed register of the weather; which I kept with all possible care and attention。 From a perusal of it; you will see that there is less rain and wind at Nice; than in any other part of the world that I know; and such is the serenity of the air; that you see nothing above your head for several months together; but a charming blue expanse; without cloud or speck。 Whatever clouds may be formed by evaporation of the sea; they seldom or never hover over this small territory; but; in all probability; are attracted by the mountains that surround it; and there fall in rain or snow: as for those that gather from other quarters; I suppose their progress hitherward is obstructed by those very Alps; which rise one over another; to an extent of many leagues。 This air being dry; pure; heavy; and elastic; must be agreeable to the constitution of those who labour under disorders arising from weak nerves; obstructed perspiration; relaxed fibres; a viscidity of lymph; and a languid circulation。 In other respects; it encourages the scurvy; the atmosphere being undoubtedly impregnated with sea…salt。 Ever since my arrival at Nice; I have had a scorbutical eruption on my right hand; which diminishes and increases according to the state of my health。 One day last summer; when there was a strong breeze from the sea; the surface of our bodies was covered with a salt brine; very perceptible to the taste; my gums; as well as those of another person in my family; began to swell; and grow painful; though this had never happened before; and I was seized with violent pains in the joints of my knees。 I was then at a country…house fronting the sea; and particularly exposed to the marine air。 The swelling of our gums subsided as the wind fell: but what was very remarkable; the scurvy…spot on my hand disappeared; and did not return for a whole month。 It is affirmed that sea…salt will dissolve; and render the blood so fluid; that it will exude through the coats of the vessels。 Perhaps the sea…scurvy is a partial dissolution of it; by that mineral absorbed from the air by the lymphatics on the surface of the body; and by those of the lungs in respiration。 Certain it is; in the last stages of the sea…scurvy; the blood often bursts from the pores; and this phaenomenon is imputed to a high degree of putrefaction: sure enough it is attended with putrefaction。 We know that a certain quantity of salt is required to preserve the animal juices from going putrid: but; how a greater quantity should produce putrefaction; I leave to wiser heads to explain。 Many people here have scorbutical complaints; though their teeth are not affected。 They are subject to eruptions on the skin; putrid gums; pains in the bones; lassitude; indigestion; and low spirits; but the reigning distemper is a marasmus; or consumption; which proceeds gradually; without any pulmonary complaint; the complexion growing more and more florid; 'till the very last scene of the tragedy。 This I would impute to the effects of a very dry; saline atmosphere; upon a thin habit; in which there is an extraordinary waste by perspiration。 The air is remarkably salt in this district; because the mountains that hem it in; prevent its communication with the circumambient atmosphere; in which the saline particles would otherwise be diffused; and there is no rain; nor dew; to precipitate or dissolve them。 Such an air as I have described; should have no bad effect upon a moist; phlegmatic constitution; such as mine; and yet it must be owned; I have been visibly wasting since I came hither; though this decay I considered as the progress of the tabes which began in England。 But the air of Nice has had a still more sensible effect upon Mr。 Schz; who laboured under nervous complaints to such a degree; that life was a burthen