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travels through france and italy-第71章

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 with damask; striped silk;  painted cloths; tapestry; or printed linnen。 All the doors; as  well as the windows; consist of folding leaves。 As there is no  wainscot in the rooms; which are divided by stone partitions and  the floors and cieling are covered with brick and stucco; fires  are of much less dreadful consequence here than in our country。  Wainscot would afford harbour for bugs: besides; white walls have  a better effect in this hot climate。 The beds commonly used in  this place; and all over Italy; consist of a paillasse; with one  or two mattrasses; laid upon planks; supported by two wooden  benches。 Instead of curtains there is a couziniere or mosquito  net; made of a kind of gauze; that opens and contracts  occasionally; and incloses the place where you lie: persons of  condition; however; have also bedsteads and curtains; but these  last are never used in the summer。

In these countries; people of all ranks dine exactly at noon; and  this is the time I seize in winter; for making my daily tour of  the streets and ramparts; which at all other hours of the day are  crowded with men; women; children and beasts of burthen。 The  rampart is the common road for carriages of all kinds。 I think  there are two private coaches in Nice; besides that of the  commandant: but there are sedan chairs; which may be had at a  reasonable rate。 When I bathed in the summer; I paid thirty sols;  equal to eighteen…pence; for being carried to and from the  bathing place; which was a mile from my own house。

Now I am speaking of bathing; it may not be amiss to inform you  that though there is a fine open beach; extending several miles  to the westward of Nice; those who cannot swim ought to bathe  with great precaution; as the sea is very deep; and the descent  very abrupt from within a yard or two of the water's edge。 The  people here were much surprised when I began to bathe in the  beginning of May。 They thought it very strange; that a man  seemingly consumptive should plunge into the sea; especially when  the weather was so cold; and some of the doctors prognosticated  immediate death。 But; when it was perceived that I grew better in  consequence of the bath; some of the Swiss officers tried the  same experiment; and in a few days; our example was followed by  several inhabitants of Nice。 There is; however; no convenience  for this operation; from the benefit of which the fair sex must  be intirely excluded; unless they lay aside all regard to  decorum; for the shore is always lined with fishing…boats; and  crouded with people。 If a lady should be at the expence of having  a tent pitched on the beach where she might put on and of her  bathing…dress; she could not pretend to go into the sea without  proper attendants; nor could she possibly plunge headlong into  the water; which is the most effectual; and least dangerous way  of bathing。 All that she can do is to have the sea…water brought  into her house; and make use of a bathing…tub; which may be made  according to her own; or physician's direction。

What further I have to say of this climate and country; you shall  have in my next; and then you will be released from a subject;  which I am afraid has been but too circumstantially handled by Sir; Your very humble servant。

LETTER XXIV

NICE; January 4; 1765。

DEAR SIR。;The constitution of this climate may be pretty well  ascertained; from the inclosed register of the weather; which I  kept with all possible care and attention。 From a perusal of it;  you will see that there is less rain and wind at Nice; than in  any other part of the world that I know; and such is the serenity  of the air; that you see nothing above your head for several  months together; but a charming blue expanse; without cloud or  speck。 Whatever clouds may be formed by evaporation of the sea;  they seldom or never hover over this small territory; but; in all  probability; are attracted by the mountains that surround it; and  there fall in rain or snow: as for those that gather from other  quarters; I suppose their progress hitherward is obstructed by  those very Alps; which rise one over another; to an extent of  many leagues。 This air being dry; pure; heavy; and elastic; must  be agreeable to the constitution of those who labour under  disorders arising from weak nerves; obstructed perspiration;  relaxed fibres; a viscidity of lymph; and a languid circulation。  In other respects; it encourages the scurvy; the atmosphere being  undoubtedly impregnated with sea…salt。 Ever since my arrival at  Nice; I have had a scorbutical eruption on my right hand; which  diminishes and increases according to the state of my health。 One  day last summer; when there was a strong breeze from the sea; the  surface of our bodies was covered with a salt brine; very  perceptible to the taste; my gums; as well as those of another  person in my family; began to swell; and grow painful; though  this had never happened before; and I was seized with violent  pains in the joints of my knees。 I was then at a country…house  fronting the sea; and particularly exposed to the marine air。 The  swelling of our gums subsided as the wind fell: but what was very  remarkable; the scurvy…spot on my hand disappeared; and did not  return for a whole month。 It is affirmed that sea…salt will  dissolve; and render the blood so fluid; that it will exude  through the coats of the vessels。 Perhaps the sea…scurvy is a  partial dissolution of it; by that mineral absorbed from the air  by the lymphatics on the surface of the body; and by those of the  lungs in respiration。 Certain it is; in the last stages of the  sea…scurvy; the blood often bursts from the pores; and this  phaenomenon is imputed to a high degree of putrefaction: sure  enough it is attended with putrefaction。 We know that a certain  quantity of salt is required to preserve the animal juices from  going putrid: but; how a greater quantity should produce  putrefaction; I leave to wiser heads to explain。 Many people here  have scorbutical complaints; though their teeth are not affected。  They are subject to eruptions on the skin; putrid gums; pains in  the bones; lassitude; indigestion; and low spirits; but the  reigning distemper is a marasmus; or consumption; which proceeds  gradually; without any pulmonary complaint; the complexion  growing more and more florid; 'till the very last scene of the  tragedy。 This I would impute to the effects of a very dry; saline  atmosphere; upon a thin habit; in which there is an extraordinary  waste by perspiration。 The air is remarkably salt in this  district; because the mountains that hem it in; prevent its  communication with the circumambient atmosphere; in which the  saline particles would otherwise be diffused; and there is no  rain; nor dew; to precipitate or dissolve them。 Such an air as I  have described; should have no bad effect upon a moist;  phlegmatic constitution; such as mine; and yet it must be owned;  I have been visibly wasting since I came hither; though this  decay I considered as the progress of the tabes which began in  England。 But the air of Nice has had a still more sensible effect  upon Mr。 Schz; who laboured under nervous complaints to such a  degree; that life was a burthen
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